Dr Pulley Slider Question

I hope I am posting this in the correct place so here goes. I have installed 26G sliders on my 2012 SW. I have called up Dr Pulley Sliders and there are a lot of entries but can any one tell me in 25 words or less what I should expect if I install 24G or 22G or 21G sliders on my SW.

I had 21 grams and they raised the rpm's too much for my liking. The interstate rpm's were about the same but the 55 mph and under was just too high for me. But the acceleration was great.

Before I put 26G sliders in mine I did research via the web and I determined the lower weight, the better and faster acceleration, especially off the line, but as you went lighter, the gas mileage suffered. It seemed that most found 26G or 24G to be the sweet spot, maybe 24G if acceleration was your main goal. With 26G I found better acceleration and lower highway RPM's as well as improvements in gas mileage over stock. Sorry, think I went over 25 words...

mike712 wrote:

I hope I am posting this in the correct place so here goes.  I have installed 26G sliders on my 2012 SW.  I have called up Dr Pulley Sliders and there are a lot of entries but can any one tell me in 25 words or less what I should expect if I install 24G or 22G or 21G sliders on my SW.

A lot of people have done comparison tests with the sliders. I have 26grm sliders in . The main benefit I find is in the acceleration. If you are overtaking someone and they start to accelerate, the sliders give you that extra push to get past safely. MPG is the same as with rollers, in my case 64mp (imperial)g.

I just ordered a set of 24g. It seems they are in short supply.

mike712 wrote:

I just ordered a set of 24g.   It seems they are in short supply.

Where did you find them? Can you post a link? I am in the US and am not having luck finding them.

I ordered them off of ebay. I can't remember the name of the seller. I just searched ebay for Dr Pulley sliders.

I started with 26g sliders, but because I live at high elevation (>5,000 ft) I still wasn't getting enough umph to climb over the high mountain passes with authority, so I installed 22g sliders. The lighter ones allow the engine to immediately rev onto the power band upon acceleration which is what I wanted. I have been to the top of Pikes Peak and Mt Evans, both well over 14,000 feet as well as many other high passes. I still average in the low 50 mpg range, so for me this seems like a good fit.

I installed 26 sliders to reduce the vibrations my 2002 Swing had when accelerating from a stop. I was not happy and went to the 24 sliders and was happy. Another benefit was acceleration. WOW! Moved the 24 to my new 2013 Swing. Love the acceleration.

A few have mentioned 22g and 26g sliders. I found the list below on the Dr Pulley web site. You'll find they recommend 24 or 25g sliders.
Dr Pulley info

My Swing has done 16000 miles and considering Dr.P sliders instead of rollers plus new belt when winter arrives,can't decide which ones to use though

HELP HELP HELP HELP
Not sure where to post this but I am trying to install sliders and I can't break loose the 14mm bolt holding on the variator. Any suggestions????????

You need the acme pulley tool Mike, basically a lump of wood with three holes. You need it to hold the pulley to torque up the central nut anyway.

That variator bolt is torqued to 77 lbs ft, but some nimrod mechanic may have torqued the bejesus out of it with an air ratchet. Hopefully the same klutz didn't also put Loctite on the bolt threads too. As already mentioned above, you'll need a variator holding tool to prevent the variator from turning while you remove and reinstall the bolt. 

The preferred tool is Bruce Kohler's inexpensive metal spanner tool: https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B-lQ7Ifo_iuqZVhweE0zclBNYm8?usp=sharing

But the quick,,dirty & inexpensive tool is the legendary Leroy Beal's plywood variator holder: https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B-lQ7Ifo_iuqZVhweE0zclBNYm8?usp=sharing

DO NOT REINSTALL THE VARIATOR BOLT WITH AN AIR GUN. Use a torque wrench. See JeffR's belt installation Pictorial.

Tim

I have a variator holder made to Bruce Kohler's specs.  It just bent under pressure.  Bolt didn't budge.....I tried using an air impact wrench and it still didn't budge.  Any other suggestions other than live with what it is until the belt has to be changed????????

PS.  The last nimrod mechanic was me.  I installed 26G Dr Pulley Sliders and used a torque wrench set at 77 FT Lbs to re-install the bolt.  Alos NO loctite......

Umm , heat the bolt head. Then let it cool somewhat before you attempt removing it. "Live with it" isn't going to resolve the problem.

Get a stronger (thicker) main bar. Mine is made of 1\4 x 4" aluminum bar stock and works fine. Your impact wrench should have removed the nut. Maybe your gun is too small. I have both an air and a battery impact gun. For most jobs the battery one from Sears works fine. Nothing beats the air gun also from Sears. Always use the variator tool and a torque wrench to install the bolt. Good luck.

GOT IT..........Installed Dr Pulley Sliders 24GR......WOW. Well worth the effort.  Big difference between 24GR & 26GR.  I have a set of 26GR sliders used for only 300 miles that I would be willing to sell.  Someone make me an offer.......

 
So what did you do to remove the bolt?

PM sent

Tim

I also started with 26g sliders. Then I have trimmed them by using Dremel (and a scales) to 25g, which is better.
I think I will trim them further to 24.5 g this winter as there is still too much vibrations to my taste.
Other than that sliders are much better than OEM in any case.

Lazyfox wrote:

I also started with 26g sliders. Then I have trimmed them by using Dremel (and a scales) to 25g, which is better.
I think I will trim them further to 24.5 g this winter as there is still too much vibrations to my taste.
Other than that sliders are much better than OEM in any case.

Can you please explain how you lightened the 26 gm sliders with a Dremel. Photos if ossinle too.

Tim

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Lazyfox wrote:

I also started with 26g sliders. Then I have trimmed them by using Dremel (and a scales) to 25g, which is better.
I think I will trim them further to 24.5 g this winter as there is still too much vibrations to my taste.
Other than that sliders are much better than OEM in any case.

Can you please explain how you lightened the 26 gm sliders with a Dremel. Photos if ossinle too.

Tim

Sorry, but I don't have any photos.
The most difficult part is to remove sliders from the bike
Then you will need: a scale with 0.01g accuracy, a Dremel (or similar) rotary tool and a sanding band. Don't use the stone tool, it is more for polishing than sanding.
A slider is made of nylon which is quite light. The brass (I think) sleeve is necessary to achieve desired weight.
What is need to do is to remove some ( I stress some) material from inside of the brass sleeve. Do not stay in one place but move your sanding band around. You will need to be careful and check the actual weight every couple seconds of sanding as there is no return. Always before putting the slider on the scale remove the dust so you get accurate reading. Trimming one slider by one gram should not take longer than 5-10 minutes. And the last advice: weigh all your sliders before. This will tell if your scale is calibrated properly. Sliders tolerance is usually +-0.05 g.
Please do not hesitate to ask if my explanation is not clear enough.
BR
Andrew

Thanks Andrew

So you dont need to remove the brass sleeve from the nylon slider then?  It's more of a case of honing out the i.d. of the brass weight. I wonder if chucking a cotter pin with a strip of coarse sand cloth in a Dewalt drill --or a brake cylinder hone will work?

I do understand the need to continually monitor your progress.

Tim

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Thanks Andrew

So you dont need to remove the brass sleeve from the nylon slider then?  It's more of a case of honing out the i.d. of the brass weight. I wonder if chucking a cotter pin with a strip of coarse sand cloth in a Dewalt drill --or a brake cylinder hone will work?

I do understand the need to continually monitor your progress.

Tim

Correct, the slider stays intact. No need to remove the bras sleeve (if it's possible at all without damaging the slider).
The tool mounted on the Dremel in the link is that what I was using successfully.
You can see also a stone tool (orange colour) which did not make any impression on the sleeve/weight.

http://www.electro.pl/narzedzia-wielofunkcyjne/narzedzie-wielofunkcyjne-dremel-3000-15,id-636476

BR, Andrew