Left brake micro-switch

My SW is becoming balky to start and I have traced it to the micro-switch on the left bar end. If I remove the brake lever it starts instantly every time. With the lever in place it is hit or miss, even when max pressure applied to lever! Can find no way to adjust travel of the switch. Anyone have an idea???

Spritz the micro switch with contact cleaner.

Depending on the age/mileage on your SW you might want to just put a new switch on order.

Partzilla usually has excellent parts availability and prices.

Tim

Took the brake lever back off and used needle nose plier to "tweek" the action bar back toward the rear a bit. Have to squeeze hard but is much better than before!!

jcctx, thanks for the follow up. It is always nice to see the resolution to the problems. That is what makes this site the best.

SteveO

On the very same Sunday,while out for a ride with the club,I had the same problem!! When I got home,I listened for the double clicks of the two micros on the left lever. The rear light sw. gave a nice crisp "click" but the brake sw.operation was barely audible.It also seemed to be gummed up and was slow to exit the dual sw.assy.That same day, I read this post, got some contact cleaner and gave it a good couple of squirts and exercised the lever multiple times.That seems to have done the trick.Might just order a new assy.as back up though.

Switch Assy.Front Stop Pt.No.35340-KFG-000 is available from www.2wheelpros.com for USD 18.88 +shipping. I have just ordered one but,unfortunately for me being in Oz, the shipping is $10 more than than the cost of the item.Happens a lot.  

ericclapham wrote:

On the very same Sunday,while out for a ride with the club,I had the same problem!! When I got home,I listened for the double clicks of the two micros on the left lever. The rear light sw. gave a nice crisp "click" but the brake sw.operation was barely audible.It also seemed to be gummed up and was slow to exit the dual sw.assy.That same day, I read this post, got some contact cleaner and gave it a good couple of squirts and exercised the lever multiple times.That seems to have done the trick.Might just order a new assy.as back up though.

Sometimes "free" advice is worth the price.      

So...just acquired my 2009 Swing last week. Brake lights didn't/don't work:
After sleuthing, I discovered today that four wires (joined two and two separately) made the brake light 'on' ALL the time. Separating the 4 wires, at least cut power to the B lights but the scoot won't start. I'm suspecting it's the 'safety' switch design.
I have no idea why someone wired things this way. I suspect there's more to the story.
I wonder if there is a switch missing, in addition to the two-terminal one present.
Can anyone comment?
Cheers from London (the little one)

The left switch should have two separate circuits. The one that activates first (as you pull in the lever) is for the brake light circuit, the second one (that requires a harder yank) is the interlock for the starter circuit.
The attached diagram shows the starter circuit, to get the starter relay to work you need power to pass through the limit switch (clutch switch), the starter button, and then through the sidestand switch to ground. To get the starter working in the absense of the clutchswitch, you join the black/white and green/red wires at the clutch switch.

Terry Smith wrote:

The left switch should have two separate circuits. The one that activates first (as you pull in the lever) is for the brake light circuit, the second one (that requires a harder yank) is the interlock for the starter circuit.
The attached diagram shows the starter circuit, to get the starter relay to work you need power to pass through the limit switch (clutch switch), the starter button, and then through the sidestand switch to ground. To get the starter working in the absense of the clutchswitch, you join the black/white and green/red wires at the clutch switch.

Thank you Terry Smith. Your explanation makes perfect sense. Apparently, I shall have to order a new switch then, if I want to have brake-light control (and starter function), with the left lever.
An alternate idea would be to remove the switch, join the wires you mention, leave the brake light unattached and have just the front brake as the brake light actuator (which is not great.)
I have since removed the left switch and tested for continuity. It's 'screwed up'...why, I don't know. Continuity is present before lever movement at both terminals.
Have a great day in Aukland!
I've been listening to stations throughout NZ lately, via Radio Garden. Love to visit some day.
Cheers!,
John F

Johnboy, here is my experience:

https://www.silverwing600.com/t12502-rear-brake-light-switch?highlight=rear+brake+switch

My rear brake light failed so I replaced the switch! The link is still good if you want to replace it, it is very easy install as stated above. In addition I kept the old switch as the starter side still worked, so just in case...
Good luck.

Thanks GHM.
If/when I find a new switch, I'll also have to crimp on new female connectors as the 'gent' before me, cut them off and Marr-connected wires together.
I prefer to activate brakes rear-first so...having an operational brake light light is important.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers,
John

Johnboy wrote:

Thanks GHM.
If/when I find a new switch, I'll also have to crimp on new female connectors as the 'gent' before me, cut them off and Marr-connected wires together.
I prefer to activate brakes rear-first so...having an operational brake light light is important.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers,
John

Having removed the double micro switch and checking continuity, at 'rest' the starter - side was 'closed' while the other was...'open'.
Simulating squeezing the lever a little, did not close (connect) the brake-light circuit. It was jittery at best.
Simulating full - squeeze (braking) opened the starter side, the way it should.
I've since disassembled the brake-light side, to find it working smoothly (no jitters) BUT it's in reverse. ie when activated, it disconnects, not connects. So: First squeeze disconnects light circuit, not connects.

I wonder if someone replaced the switch at one time, with the wrong one hence the by-pass wiring.
Comments anyone??
BTW - Honda Canada appears to have NO replacement switches. Local cycle salvage guys have none as well.
I'm thinking this solution:
Sign on my back that I can flip around....GOING or SLOWING.

John[/quote]

Having removed the double micro switch and checking continuity, at 'rest' the starter - side was 'closed' while the other was...'open'.
Simulating squeezing the lever a little, did not close (connect) the brake-light circuit.  It was jittery at best.
Simulating full - squeeze (braking) opened the starter side, the way it should.
I've since disassembled the brake-light side, to find it working smoothly (no jitters) BUT it's in reverse.  ie when activated, it disconnects, not connects.  So:  First squeeze disconnects light circuit, not connects.

I wonder if someone replaced the switch at one time, with the wrong one hence the by-pass wiring.
Comments anyone??
BTW - Honda Canada appears to have NO replacement switches.  Local cycle salvage guys have none as well.
I'm thinking this solution:
Sign on my back that I can flip around....GOING  or SLOWING.   [/quote]

There was a link to a place that has 6 of the switches...in my previous post.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/35340-KFG-003

Yes, I recall your link.
I'm one of those guys who tries to figure out the 'why' of something happening, hopefully with the idea of 'fixing'.
I am ready to follow your advice.
Have a great weekend.
JR

Re my new acquired 2009 FSC 600: To all the folks who took time to help me out with my left lever/micro switch situation...a big thank you.
All is resolved now. The bike has been Safety-checked and I've hugely enjoyed the first 150 miles since it was last run in 2017.
It now has 2300 miles on it! Talk about a delayed break-in period!
(Now, I should probably change coolant. I don't know if it deteriorates with age only vs hours of operation...)

Johnboy wrote:

Re my new acquired 2009 FSC 600: To all the folks who took time to help me out with my left lever/micro switch situation...a big thank you.
All is resolved now.  The bike has been Safety-checked and I've hugely enjoyed the first 150 miles since it was last run in 2017.
It now has 2300 miles on it!  Talk about a delayed break-in period!
(Now, I should probably change coolant.  I don't know if it deteriorates with age only vs hours of operation...)

I purchased my 03 with the original coolant in 2022, swapped it out last year with ~ 7000 miles on it (purchased with 4812 miles)- coolant  appeared as new- you could litmus test it for acidity, but if basic (pH ~ 9-10), you could likely leave it for a while (when I drained mine, I felt good about changing it, but looking at it in the drain pan- it was an emerald green color-, I felt like I was tossing perfectly good coolant). It’s easy to do, so it’s reasonable either way.