Oil smells like fuel

I seem to have a problem. I bought a 2002 Swing with 22K miles on it last summer. Rode it all season then stored it for the winter. This season I changed the oil before the season start and the oil had a very strong fuel smell. Chalked it up to sitting for a few months so changed the oil, changed the filter and air filter.

I just checked the oil and found the oil still smells like fuel.

Any ideas on what causes it and what I can do to fix it?

Thanks in advance.

If there really is gasoline in the oil, the only way would for it to get there is through the fuel injectors or drawn in by vacuum from a leaking fuel pressure regulator. If you pull the vacuum lines connecting to the throttle bodies and find any gasoline in them, then you know you have a faulty fuel pressure regulator. This is a common issue with older Silverwings. If the vacuum lines are dry and the engine doesn't run rich, then I would say you may have leaky injectors that allow fuel to bleed from the pressurized fuel rail once the engine is turned off. The fuel runs down the cylinder walls, dissolving your cylinder's oil coating, and diluting the crankcase with gasoline. Either way, you have a problem that needs attending to immediately.

Thanks BigBird! I will look into what you said. Hopefully I can find an easy fix!

Another way of looking at----you have 12 year old bike, probably unknown maint. history----first drain oil get new filter and oil at WalMart----ride a few long rides---100 miles or more---drain again, see what comes out----new oil and filter again.

Even though I ride a lot, I use 2000 mile drain intervals,, filter every other oil change, few short trips. It is amazing what comes out. Before chasing tech problems, make sure basics are right

Letting old dirty oil sit in engine not good idea in winter.

Recent 4300 mile trip in under 15 day period I left oil in, but changed a soon as I got to my garage. No harm.

Good Advice John. When I bought the scoot last season it had a fresh oil and filter change so I didn't worry about it. Ya, my bad. I should have changed the oil before storing. Lesson learned.

After this season's oil change I rode it a couple hundred miles then smelled the oil. Fuel...

I do abide by the low oil change intervals. It may be a waste of 10 bucks but I change the filter every time as well.

I will check the vacuum lines and change the oil again.


Thanks again, guys for the response! Sound advice....as always

Just buy the damn Fuel Pressure Regulator. You're gonna need it sooner or later. Probably need it now. Then thank BigBird.

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Just buy the damn Fuel Pressure Regulator. You're gonna need it sooner or later. Probably need it now. Then thank BigBird.

But, but, but.....I am too busy asking the same question to 7 different forums, 3 different dealers and two math teachers and will probably follow the advice of my neighbor who worked in the motor pool during the Vietnam war.   

isn't that they way it usually works?

While I am ordering teh fuel pressure regulator, I need a stop start switch as well. I broke mine when my foot slipped and the start button got caught on my riding jacket.  

texnmidwest wrote:

While I am ordering teh fuel pressure regulator, I need a stop start switch as well.  

I suggest you also order a new O-ring for the new fuel pressure regulator as well.

texnmidwest wrote:

But, but, but.....I will probably follow the advice of my neighbor who worked in the motor pool during the Vietnam war. 

Wow, now there's a knowledgeable source; some motor pool wrench who probably had the best weed in VN. Now what is that we were talking about...

Hey, we lost that one, if memory serves.

Tim

Quit sniffing the oil..Get fresh air..report back when your back!

Mudnman wrote:

Quit sniffing the oil..Get fresh air..report back when your back!

 

:flower: 

Best advice I've heard all day!  :lol!: 

After replacing the Fuel pressure regulator will I have to synch the whatchamacallits? Or will they still be good to go?

The FPR won't effect the...err, them other things. If they aren't right, they'll have to be frumoxed anyway.

texnmidwest wrote:

After replacing the Fuel pressure regulator will I have to synch the whatchamacallits?  Or will they still be good to go?

Synching the throttle plates is not a requirement after changing the fuel pressure regulator, but it is a good idea to do this on a yearly basis regardless. Those small screws do go out of adjustment due to engine vibration and thermal expansion and contraction.

Thanks BigBird! Parts ordered.

bigbird wrote:

texnmidwest wrote:

After replacing the Fuel pressure regulator will I have to synch the whatchamacallits?  Or will they still be good to go?

Synching the throttle plates is not a requirement after changing the fuel pressure regulator, but it is a good idea to do this on a yearly basis regardless. Those small screws do go out of adjustment due to engine vibration and thermal expansion and contraction.

Is it better to simultaneously use two vacuum gauges, or a single gauge to balance the vacuum? My concern is that two gauges are not calibrated against each other. Just a little more work to switch vacuum lines.

WingMan02 wrote:

Is it better to simultaneously use two vacuum gauges, or a single gauge to balance the vacuum? My concern is that two gauges are not calibrated against each other.  Just a little more work to switch vacuum lines.

I use a dual cylinder vacuum gauge. It is one piece, but has 2 manometers.
I wouldn't want to use 1 vacuum gauge, as the correct procedure involves lowering the higher cylinder reading to that of the lower cylinder reading. You'd have to write down each cylinder reading, then reconnect to the higher cylinder, lower it, recheck both cylinders, readjust idle, recheck both cylinders. You'd have to switch vacuum connections up to 6 times. No thanks.

Before wasting money on parts----run several tanks of gas thru, change oil again----old bikes/old gas in tanks/old oil mixed with combustion by-products=STINK!! And how do you know work hasn't been done in past?

Was it recall on early SilverWings? If so dealer can look up VIN to see what was done.

Older scooter with low miles must have spent a lot of time just sitting.

All kidding aside now, here is a link to a DIY Manometer:
http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html

I used about 12 ft of vinyl tubing from Lowe's or Home Depot, and used power steering fluid instead of water. Power steering fluid is much easier to see than water. Just be sure to get the same size tubing as the vacuum stubs on the intake system. 3/16" IIRC.  HTH

Tim

bigbird wrote:

]

I use a dual cylinder vacuum gauge. It is one piece, but has 2 manometers.

I went and looked at my vacuum gauge for those interested. I use a Morgan CarbTune:

http://www.carbtune.com

If the oil level isn't rising above normal in the crankcase it's not likely you have a serious leak. I agree with John, well used engines do pick up a bunch of odors. Does the oil you drained seem unusually thin? If there's much gasoline in the oil it will be noticeably lower in viscosity. There is always some combustion products in the crankcase oil. Some leakage past the rings and valve guide always is present. One other thing to watch is your oil pressure light, if it's not flickering at idle when the engine is hot it's not too likely the oil is exceptionally thin. Personally I don't believe in fixing what's not broken. Make sure something is wrong before spending money.