Ride-on tire sealant & balancer

I just want to spread my good experience with a product called Ride-on tire sealant and balancer. http://www.ride-on.com/

After having 2 low-speed rear tire blowouts recently (one on my Reflex due to a bad fill valve and one on my S'wing due to my stupidity of not replacing a bald tire when I should have) I have been completely paranoid about having a high-speed blowout sometime (in both cases I lost complete control of the bikes and it was a truly heart-stopping experience). While I know that the sealant isn't going to fix every possible tire issue I was hoping it would help me feel more confident about high speed driving knowing I had better protection than plain fate.

I had a store credit at Cycle Gear and was curious if it would live up to it's claims. I bought an 8 oz bottle for $15 and installed it in my back tire, then took the bike on a 10 mile highway drive.

I can't account protection from flats just yet (thankfully) for can at least tell you that it definitely smoothed out the ride to a point that I would not have expected (I don't static-balance my tires, but the tech at the scooter dealership says it is unnecessary). Tonight I plan to stop back at Cycle Gear and pick up a second bottle for the front wheel and hope it smooths out my ride even more. I think $30 is kind of steep to fill both wheels (2 bottles) and I wonder if the ATV solution they also sell, which is about 2/3 the price, would work just as well.

Jesse in Atlanta

I use ride on-----it works. Besides balancing, it will seal small leaks, etc. Worth the $15----takes patience to get in, easy with tire/wheel on bench. Most bike shops cannot/do not balance 13" rear-----if you don't do own tire work. High speed loss of air not fun---had 2 in my high miles---Guzzi V7 in S curve, put me and bike in field=no damage to bike to me, large nail (spike), BMW K-75, Mankato MN---85 mph middle of nite, nail---took 2 lanes, swing and sway, bike did not go down----of course the trailer bikers returning from Sturgis do not stop to help. Finally GoldWing rider (actually riding) did stop, helped me park bike safely, I spent night in ditch sleeping/resting, early AM called Tow, took me to Tire shop---had repaired from inside---BMW plus, rear wheel easy to remove.

I've got it in my tyres too, so far no testing

I added it to my front tire last night after I added it to my back tire on Sunday, and I am really pleased with the results. I was doing 85 at one point and I didn't feel like I was riding so fast. The vibration was completely eliminated from my handlebars. I wish I had discovered this stuff sooner, considering I will be replacing my tires in 2000 or so miles and I'll need to buy 2 more bottles for $30.

Jesse in Atlanta

I have used RideOn for almost 2 years now. I did have a flat just leaving my apartment 4 months ago.
I managed to get the bike back into my garage but man was it heavy.
As it turned out, there was a puncture just outside of where the RideOn was sealing, inside the tire.
The shop said, that even if there is an object in the tire that is being sealed by the RideOn to replace the tire ASAP.
Around here patching is not an option.

After putting my bike in the garage, after a rideout last week, i came to take it off the centre stand, and i could hardly move it. I thought at first one of the brakes had seized on, it turned out to be a 2inch long screw embedded in the rear tyre. I removed the screw and put a plug in the tyre from my puncture repair kit. It took me about 15 minutes. I once tried that sealant stuff, but each time i checked the tyre pressure i got a load of that gunge coming out. I prefer a repair kit myself

Wonder if it rusts out the rim?

"Ride On" does not "rust out" alu rim. It leaves a little mess on rim, but most stays in tire. I do own tire work, always clean rim and bead area anyway.

Old Limey wrote:

After putting my bike in the garage, after a rideout last week, i came to take it off the centre stand, and i could hardly move it. I thought at first one of the brakes had seized on, it turned out to be a 2inch long screw embedded in the rear tyre. I removed the screw and put a plug in the tyre from my puncture repair kit. It took me about 15 minutes. I once tried that sealant stuff, but each time i checked the tyre pressure i got a load of that gunge coming out. I prefer a repair kit myself

I use PunctureSafe, no problem. Since installing it I have stopped checking tyre pressure as it doesn't lose any!!!!

(SO FAR)

Been riding about 30,000 miles in the last six years on a Honda Aero, ST 1300, and now the Silverwing. Almost all the riders on both the Honda forums swear by the use of Ride-On. I too, am an avid advocate of its properties. As long as the puncture is in the tread of the tire it WILL seal it without almost any loss of pressure. Also, the balancing is fantastic. You will feel a very noticeable difference reguardless how well you THINK your tires are balanced prior to the Ride-On.

Waspie, if you don't check your tyre pressures how do you know whether they lose any or not??.

Old Limey wrote:

Waspie, if you don't check your tyre pressures how do you know whether they lose any or not??.

I used to check them religiously. But there is a time when even I can recognise futility!!!

Now it's a case of kick the tyres light the fires and just ride. If after a few yards the ride feels 'odd'. I simple turn round and check in the safety of the garage.

No degree in common sense required!

When I bought my SW, it came with valve caps that contain a green indicator, that is visible when the tyre pressure is 'OK'. (Google for 'Pressure Guard Valve Cap Pressure Monitor')

These caps are said to calibrate themselves on installation, and when the tyre pressure drops, a red indicator becomes visible.

Loath to place anything other than the dust cap on my car and bike.

Read an article about a motorcyclist who had a traumatic deflation resulting in his death due to a pair of death head metal dust caps he had fitted. Evidently, the increase in mass on the rotating wheel resulted in the metal dust cap pulling the valve from the wheel rim!

Ever since I have been wary of anything other than the bog standard cheap dust caps.

Extreme I know but valid.

They leak air also

I guess a heavy valve cap can push a valve INTO the rim, due to centrifugal force...




Perhaps a suggestion for Mythbusters?

I usually replace to OE plastic caps with a metal ones as they have an extra sealing function. IIRC there was a problem with some of the indicating caps in that they failed in an 'unsafe' mode and the tyre could lose pressure. The Ariete type valves come complete with an alloy lightweight cap which presumably mitigates the centrifugal problem.

rodenbach wrote:

When I bought my SW, it came with valve caps that contain a green indicator, that is visible when the tyre pressure is 'OK'. (Google for 'Pressure Guard Valve Cap Pressure Monitor')

These caps are said to calibrate themselves on installation, and when the tyre pressure drops, a red indicator becomes visible.

I used a pair of those pressure monitor valve caps on the AN400 Burgman I had a few years ago. I thought they were a good idea until the day I went into my garage to get the scooter out and found the rear tyre completely flat. Inspection revealed the clear plastic top and the green/red indicator stem of the valve cap were missing, and only the metal part of the dust cover remained.

I later found the missing bits on my garage floor, so something had caused the plastic parts of the valve cap to detach itself from the metal part of the valve cap under pressure and then completely deflate the tyre.

The only thing I can thing of is I'd sprayed "Muc Off" onto the rear wheel to remove road grime and brake dust when cleaning the Burgman before putting it away in the garage a few days earlier.. I don't know if this affected the bonding of the plastic and metal parts of the valve cap, and I'd thoroughly hosed down the scooter after cleaning the wheels.

If the valve cap pressure monitor had blown off out on the road or on a motorway and caused a castastrophic loss of tyre pressure, I don't think I'd be telling you this cautionary tale and needless to say I removed the valve cap from the front wheel and after reinflating the rear tyre went back to the original black plastic valve caps.

I agree with Waspie about valve caps. The only thing i do is put one cap(that is metal and has a pronged end for removing the valve core) on one wheel, just in case!.

Old Limey wrote:

I agree with Waspie about valve caps. The only thing i do is put one cap(that is metal and has a pronged end for removing the valve core) on one wheel, just in case!.

I have one of those in my under seat kit, I also carry spare valve cores inside the capped tube of an old Biro.

Meldrew wrote:

Old Limey wrote:

I agree with Waspie about valve caps. The only thing i do is put one cap(that is metal and has a pronged end for removing the valve core) on one wheel, just in case!.

I have one of those in my under seat kit

Likewise! I also carry a pressure gauge and one of those high pressure bicycle pumps in the left glove comp.

Although I check the pressure rarely I hate to be caught out!!!!

My personal experience

1. It seals
2. It balances after driving off
3. since your rims are painted, say goodby to the paint inside. It looks horrible. You may call it rust since is water based.

If you are on a dark side, you may want to invest in a tire monitor. Since you have no walls to support the bike on a flat you will be riding on your rims in no time.

My worst flat, I ran with my DS over the *&^% small manhole and the I ended up with a 3 inch gash right in the middle of the tire. It took about 5 seconds to pull over. The bike was sitting so low I couldn't put it on the center stand.

I put the "bolt on" tire air things ...whatcha ma call them ...cause I can't remember. They work perfect.

I tried the green/red valve tire pressure and they broke with time. Mine not reliable.

my last 2 cents

What about rust inhibitors they claim

Inhibitors ? In both my bikes I used this on... paint just falls off. If "rust" you are referring to is the redish oxidation thing, that is not what is looks like. This is black with small chunks of paint. I don't think those rims are made of aluminum.

I had a bad experience with the product yesterday. While it works great as a balancer I have questions about it's ability to seal.
While the bike was at the shop for yet another tire replacement I drilled a 1/4 in hole in the center of the tire, because the direction specifically say " up to 1/4 in."
To my great surprise, nothing came out except air. Nothing. 
I can only hope that it works with smaller punctures.

I was having a problem with back tire losing air pressure, put in Green Slime in both front and back tire and seems to have cured the problem, it also seems to run more balanced.

I use "Ride On" and have for quite awhile-----for me balance/balancing aide and plus is it might seal minor leaks/punctures. Just put it in fr and rear of my new SilverWing yesterday---works great and even does smooth ride of factory balanced tires and wheels.....and as tire ages it adjusts to that/those changes. Water soluble so no rim damage!!

Just read the label on Slime at the WalMart and it is not balance aide----not sure of what it does or can do to rims.

I do own tire work---so see up close my rims---clean them (on inside) and often have to wire brush area where tire bead seats and sometimes there are rubber deposits that could affect bead sealing.

Have used this stuff in both tubeless and tube tire....My current TU 250 Suzuki has tubes with Ride On in and seems to work.

Since scooter rear wheels are pain to remove....nice to have balance that lasts life of tire and probably increases tire life----recently took off Michelin Power plus SC off my Burgman 400 at 11,000 miles and think it would have gone longer in local use----but was on way to Vancouver BC and thought fresh tire was good idea for trip that was 6-7,000 miles.

I would like to get this for my Swing. Where is a good source to purchase?
How many oz. did you use in front tire?
rear tire?

billc. wrote:

I would like to get this for my Swing.  Where is a good source to purchase?
                                                  How many oz. did you use in front tire?
                                                                                         rear tire?

The OP is in the Atlanta area. You might try a PM to him. Also the first post lists a web site where you can locate dealers and details on application.

I would never use any tire sealant, all my friends that used it on their bikes all had bad experiences with them. Mostly front judder due to wheel going out of balance.

I stand by Ride On=works, probably 100,000 mile plus with it----Not cheap. I use whole bottle in each wheel---good bike shop have it----on line try Competition Accessories.

Pain is price and not the smoothest going in---but smooth ride worth it and wheels staying in balance for life of tire----the fact that it might seal minor holes, etc real plus as I do not like to walk.

I don't have the tire go out of balance typically during it's life on any of my vehicles if it is balanced with weights.  Sure, a weight can fall off, but it's been a really long time since I've had that happen on anything.  I'd like to know if my tire changes balance.   It means something is wrong with it.

My question here is----do you pull your wheels off? and balance them again during life of tire? Non ABS just one flat spot from locked brake (REAR I hope) front you may be on head. Or do own tire work? or even ride enough to go thru let'ssay 3 rears and a couple of fronts each year? Smooth running tires and wheels=nice ride and long tire life. pleasant ride

Since the SilverWing and other maxi scooters are poor design and rears are kinda hard to pull off---few people actually re-balance during a tire's life. I think new BMW scooter (Kymco heart) the rear may come off/out easy

Final how many shops can actually dynamic balance rear 13 inch?? or the experience/interest to actually do it right?

Ride On takes care of all of this mickey mouse on bikes.

John,

Few ride as much of you, we all know that. But I've ridden through plenty of scooter tires and I do my own tire work. Including balancing them. I like a smooth riding bike - and if I thought RideOn would get me a smoother ride, I'd do it. I'm glad it's worked for you. I'm not sure how any of that has anything to do with what I was commenting or whether Ride On vs weights are a better idea - after all, even if I rode 3x as much as you, I could still be wrong.

But I assure you I'd feel an out-of-balance wheel! If I felt an out of balance wheel, of course I'd pull it off if it just needed re-balance, just never had the need.

As for the rear tire, I don't find it hard to pull off on the Silverwing (am and wondering why people insist this is a difficult job - it's not) - remove a couple of clamps and the caliper (is there any motorcycle you don't have to remove brake parts to remove the rear wheel?), remove the shaft holder - just a few easy bolts - and, with the motorcycle on a lift with a drop out under the rear wheel, remove the wheel. I don't remove my muffler as it isn't needed (but it's not exactly a major job, either). I can do my rear wheel easier than my front wheel (it's got a simpler process to reinstall than the front IMHO, not that the front is all that difficult either). All that said, removing the wheel never was the hard part. Dealing with those $#@! Bridgestones is a whole other story (the IRCs and Michellins aren't bad, and I highly recommend them over the Bridgestones if you do your own tire work).

Interestingly, I found someone I recognize complaining about wheel removal on the Tux: http://tu250riders.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3742&p=27392#p27392

TU probably me----any motorcycle marketed without center stand=junk.

I have been riding long enough to remember when scooter came with spare tire and wheel and one of my Vespas even had a small prop to keep rear wheel off ground when you pulled wheel.

On lift things are easier----but I always look at roadside conditions as that is always where tire troubles happen. Walking sucks.

I am not looking forward to remove-- front wheel of SilverWing on the road-----easy at home, floor jack, big piece of flat plywood and block so it doesn't roll off centerstand.

Side note: Bridgestone scooter tires, I have had 2 fail underway, didn't go down---Helix(Fusion) in Japan, long curve=real thrill!! But J rated 62mph and bike would go as little faster than that and tire always seemed to run real hot. Reflex in US---tire just came apart=another thrill. Bridgestone supplied replacement free.

jmaslak wrote:

...and, with the motorcycle on a lift with a drop out under the rear wheel, remove the wheel.  I don't remove my muffler as it isn't needed (but it's not exactly a major job, either).

Dealing with those $#@! Bridgestones is a whole other story (the IRCs and Michellins aren't bad, and I highly recommend them over the Bridgestones if you do your own tire work).

Jmaslak, I am most intrigued by your comments as I change tires about 4 times a year - and for me it is a PITA (rear especially - front is easy)  - but I have been doing rear wheel removal by removing my muffler - which necessitates removing my topbox(it is wired for lights/CB antenna) and a whole lot of other stuff before I can get the muffler off.  Next time (just changed both tires) I am going to try it your way.  I have only changed my tires once - it was like wrestling with an alligator - and I barely won the battle - so now I take wheels and new Pirrelli Diablo tires to my dealer and for $20 each tire they change/balance it.  I can balance it - but have given up on changing it.  

WHEEL REMOVAL
I have a Motorcycle Jack (http://goo.gl/5Nog3G) that I slide (right to left when viewed as sitting on bike) under my bike with the Left cushion (with block of wood so Right cushion does not contact plastic) under the Lift Point of the SWING (in between the four indents in the bottom plastic that bear directly on frame).  I do this to lift Front Tire off the ground so that I can pull the tire out from under front fender - but SWing rests on centerstand.  Do you think that I can use my lift to raise the rear tire about a foot off the ground (along with front tire) - or is there some risk it will tip over - and what should I do to get the Right cushion involved for more stability without damaging plastic? Has anyone lifted their SWing this way? Any issues?  Any alternative lifts that work that are not too expensive (hate to buy a lift just to change rear wheel - more to store in the already full garage).  

TIRE CHANGE
Do you think the Diablo's are a hard tire to change (as compared to IRCs or Michellins)?  What do you use to change your tires (e.g.,  make of tire iron, number)?  Maybe I need to give up my Diablo's (love them - hate the thought of going to another tire) in order to get a tire I can change.

If I can remove Rear wheel without muffler removal and change tire easily - then I will save much time (and also save $160 per year).

Suggestions by all are welcome!

Tire Irons----a I/you get older and there I loss of power, longer irons help, warming tire/wheel in sun makes getting tire off rim easier.

Motorcycle side lift is a accident waiting to happen very unstable   I have the centre stand remove in order to fit my trike kit on my swing. I screwed 2 eye hooks to the  ceiling in my garage and with 2 ratchet straps hooked to the passenger hand rail and I lift the rear end up as high as I want and there is nothing in the way to trip on. 

john grinsel wrote:

Tire Irons----a I/you get older and there I loss of power, longer irons help, warming tire/wheel in sun makes getting tire off rim easier.

Thanks for the tips John. Yes, I am getting older - maybe best to let the young bucks change their tires?

tinman wrote:

I screwed 2 eye hooks to the  ceiling in my garage and with 2 ratchet straps hooked to the passenger hand rail and I lift the rear end up as high as I want and there is nothing in the way to trip on. 

So, you keep the front wheel the ground? Guessing I can do that, sure would not want to put entire weight of bike on my ceiling as I am not sure it would hold all 500 pounds - but thinking that just lifting the rear would approach 300 pounds - which I am guessing my ceiling will hold. Thanks for this tip.

You can still lift the front wheel of the with the side motorcycle lift if you need to get both wheels off the ground , or use a front wheel chuck if you need more stability.I still use the motorcycle side lift if I am removing the front wheel,by placing a piece of 2x4for a wider stability.

Diamond,

Once the wheel has room under it, you'll have to rotate the wheel both ways to get it off at different points - it's kind of like playing Tetris.  It doesn't look like it will do it, but it will, without forcing anything.  If it doesn't come, either you don't have enough room under the wheel or you need to try a different tactic.

I'm also not sure why you have to remove the topbox for the muffler - but perhaps the way the wiring is run to it is why.

As for the Diablos, I've not tried them on a Swing, but other Perrelli's on another scooter they were a bit easier than the Michelins for getting on/off the rim according to someone I trust.  So I think they will be fine.  I honestly don't know what Bridgestone was thinking with their bead - it is unlike anything else.

As for tire irons, I'll try to figure out what I have.  I agree with John, long is really, really good. Shape matters too.  I use the Harbor Freight motorcycle tire changer stand, and I still hate doing the actual tire change even with the right tools (with 4 bikes, justifying the tire changer was easy - that said, I just use the tire changer stand to break the bead and hold the rim, I don't use the long bar it came with to put the tire on, so I suppose someone could probably rig up something to do these two tasks).  I'll see if I can dig up some of the better Youtubes on changing tires.  You'll also want some rim protectors (I use plastic 1 gallon juice bottles cut up).

billc. wrote:

I would like to get this for my Swing.  Where is a good source to purchase?
                                                  How many oz. did you use in front tire?
                                                                                         rear tire?

Suggest you try Cycle Gear - there are three stores in Atlanta area - in California the Cycle Gear stores near me carry it.  If you buy from manufacturer they charge a lot of freight ($15 or so).  It costs about $15 per 8oz bottle - called the manufacturer and they recommended that I use 1oz more than called for in their sizing (online) charts - so you need 7oz front and 9oz rear - two bottles.  Goes in pretty easy. During recent tire change FRONT had all of the Ride-On on flatter part of tire (tread area in contact with ground), not much up tire sidewalls, none on rim - I installed the Ride-On with SWing upright - went in easy enough at 3 o'clock position.  During recent tire change REAR had most of Ride-On on in flatter part of tire, a bit up tire sidewalls, and a fair amount on the rim that had to be wiped off - I installed the Ride-On while the new tire was seated and horizontal (laying on ground).  Went in easy enough. I have my observations of Ride-On when I changed by tires 8000 miles ago and now that I have changed them this week - but without using Ride-On. I will post my observations after I get to evaluate my tires (without Ride-On) within a week.

Dimond, thanks for the great information. I will check Cycle Gear next time I am out their way.. billc.

Dimond wrote:

In California the Cycle Gear stores near me carry Ride ON  If you buy from manufacturer they charge a lot of freight ($15 or so).  It costs about $15 per 8oz bottle - called the manufacturer and they recommended that I use 1oz more than called for in their sizing (online) charts - so you need 7oz front and 9oz rear - two bottles.  Goes in pretty easy. During recent tire change FRONT had all of the Ride-On on flatter part of tire (tread area in contact with ground), not much up tire sidewalls, none on rim - I installed the Ride-On with SWing upright - went in easy enough at 3 o'clock position.  During recent tire change REAR had most of Ride-On on in flatter part of tire, a bit up tire sidewalls, and a fair amount on the rim that had to be wiped off - I installed the Ride-On while the new tire was seated and horizontal (laying on ground).  Went in easy enough. I have my observations of Ride-On when I changed by tires 8000 miles ago and now that I have changed them this week - but without using Ride-On.  I will post my observations after I get to evaluate my tires (without Ride-On) within a week.  

Here are my observations based on my most recent tire change going from Ride On in my tires to NO Ride On in my tires.  I have ridden 55,000 SWing miles now so have a good feel for front end and for vibration - but never really sure what causes vibration change.  After about 8000 miles on my last front tire I added Ride-On.  I immediately noticed the tire, which was previously 'manually balanced' (I did not remove the weights), did not shake any more or less, it was the same level of vibration - which was not much. There was a BIG change in angular momentum of the front tire - it was much harder to counter steer than before the Ride On.  It gave the front end a much heavier feel through the handlebars - in some ways I kind of liked it as it seemed to settle the front end suspension down a bit.  At 16,000 miles I changed to a new front tire (Diablo again) without Ride On - just manually balanced weights - and the front end handling went back to what I had felt before the last front tire before Ride On.  In summary, Ride On did not do anything noticeable to my front end vibration BUT it did make the front end feel as if I had installed a larger diameter front wheel - I know this sounds preposterous as I only added 7 oz of Ride On - but there was no mistaking the huge difference in the front end handling - especially at 70mph (actual, and higher).  I do a lot of freeway riding and like the SWing to move quickly via counter steering with less effort to avoid the occasional drive that tries to occupy my space or my line - without Ride On I can maneuver much faster and with less effort at high speed. I doubt very much if I will use Ride On in my front tire again.  I put Ride On in my last rear tire mounted NEW about 8,000 miles ago - after it was manually balanced (weights on).  The wheel was in the horizontal position when the Ride On was injected - which in retrospect may have been a mistake  - for, as noted above, there was some Ride On on the aluminum rim - when maybe it all should have been on the tire.  As soon as I put the Ride On in the rear, my SWing vibrated more.  There was an especially annoying vibration felt through that handlebars that was cyclical with a period of 1.5 seconds at 70 mph(actual) -it would build up gradually over the 1.5 second interval to a peak and then disappear - only to start over.  About 0.5 seconds of this vibration was really annoying - the other 1.0 second not so much. The vibration was such that I would wonder if eventually something was going to vibrate off/loose.  As my speed deceased the periodic vibration decreased and it was barely noticeable at 55mph.  Also, at high speed, the handle bar vibration was generally (all the time) a bit more than I historically had - and just a bit annoying.  After I put on my NEW tire this week and DID NOT put in Ride On (just manual balanced) all vibration of any sort disappeared - now SWing rides very smooth at all speeds. I attribute the periodic (1.5sec) vibration to some combination of: Ride On; maybe out of round Diable Tire (never had a bad Diabo tire before and don't know that this one was bad); putting the Ride On in when tire was horizontal; balancing tire manually with weights prior to adding Ride On; or some other unknown factors.  I am NEVER again using Ride On in my rear wheel.  The Ride On never did anything to increase or decrease any SWing wobbles (which I have at 25mph and 5 mph).  

In summary, while there are others that seem to like Ride On on this forum, my position, based on using Ride On in one set of Diablo tires, I DOUBT that I will use Ride On again in my front wheel and NEVER will I use Ride On in my rear wheel.  IMHO Ride On does much more harm than good (i.e, Ride On creates SWing excessive vibration and undesirable handling issues that far overshadow any of Ride On potential benefits that they may claim). Now that I am Ride On free I have my old SWing back - which is riding vibration free - I put up with this vibration for 8000 miles - glad to be back to normal!

I've using Ride-On for years in the rear wheels of my bikes primarily as a flat deterrent. I think most will agree that flats occur much more frequently in rear tires than front. I've always put it in with the tire on the bike and have never experienced anything more than the initial vibration on takeoff that the instructions for use point out.

There's a reason all the tire makers brag every time they take some weight out of the tire, which reduces unsprung weight. I've never seen a tire maker brag about making a heavier tire, nor claim one would be more comfortable (it won't be).

I really can't see what all the fuss is about; I've used Ultraseal/Puncturesafe in the tyres on all my maxiscooters after I found out about it.

It has never given tyre-balancing problems, possibly because I follow exactly the instructions on the bottle. 'Balancing' is not the reason I put it in my tyres in any case.

Through personal experience I know it works although it will not necessarily prevent explosive decompression in extreme cases!

The bottom line is that if you find it works use it and if it doesn't don't. Ranting and raving does nothing to further any discussion but only serves to make those who find it satisfactory wonder what those who don't did wrong when they were putting it in.   

My take---vibration can be belt slap, worn drive line parts.

Before using ride on----you need to make sure rim has no real heavy spots and runs out clean

Then mount tire---I have had good luck with IRC, even had a Hoop go over 30,000 front, Michelin SC over 11,000 miles rear bad luck with Pirelli/Metzeler and no fun to ride (Burgman 400).

So after checking rim, Ride On easiest to install with wheel and tire vertical----then determine if tire is round and has nice lateral run out and ride.

Note: IRC rear on my new SilverWing is not really very round---but with Ride On goes down road ok.

Ride alone a lot in the middle of no-where and the fact that Ride On may seal small leaks=nice insurance. Experience tells me tires/wheels that stay in balance last longer

john grinsel wrote:

My take---vibration can be belt slap, worn drive line parts.

The vibration I experienced was not present before I installed new Diablo tire WITH Ride On and it was not present after I installed my next Diablo WITHOUT Ride On - so vibration is NOT related to belt slap, worn drive line parts - as these parameters remained the same.

john grinsel wrote:

Before using ride on----you need to make sure rim has no real heavy spots and runs out clean

Not sure what 'runs out clean' means, but the rim was same before and after using Ride On.  My rim does have a heavy spot as the weights during balancing are close to two oz and end up at same spot all the time.  

john grinsel wrote:

Then  mount tire---I have had good luck with IRC, even had a Hoop go over 30,000 front, Michelin SC over 11,000 miles rear  bad luck with Pirelli/Metzeler and no fun to ride (Burgman 400).

I am going to rethink my tire choice - but I do love my Diablo's - but don't know much about other tire choices.

john grinsel wrote:

So after checking rim, Ride On easiest to install with wheel and tire vertical----then determine if tire is round and has nice lateral run out and ride..Note:  IRC rear on my new SilverWing is not really very round---but with Ride On goes down road ok.

OK

john grinsel wrote:

Ride alone a lot in the middle of no-where and the fact that Ride On may seal small leaks=nice insurance. Experience tells me tires/wheels that stay in balance last longer

I agree that getting a flat tire far from help is going to make for a very bad day - I ride places in California where it will take a tow truck many hours to reach.

I have one bottle of RIDE ON left over in my garage - and if Cycle Gear won't take it back, then I may give it a go in my rear tire again - assuming my very bad experience using Ride On ever wears off off!  I am encouraged that others do not seem to have the bad experience that I have had.