Where to start??

First, over the last two years of ownership, the rev counter was always between the first two tick marks at startup (as the bike gets to its "2-bar" operating temperature). As of late (since winter), I've noticed it sitting about 1500 RPMs (~40*F in Oklahoma) down to just under 1000 RPMs at startup yesterday (~90*F). Could this be temperature related? I thought of adjusting idle but note that once warm, RPMs stay around the first tick mark.

Second, I've noticed is a ... '"throatier" sound and definitely more vibrations upon acceleration. Quite a bit "thumpier" to say the least. I can only liken it to a single cylinder sounding bike. I wouldn't say I feel less power, but definitely more sound and vibes off the line at an intersection. I don't remember any changes, bumps, jolts, or anything of note. The fuel is 100%, non-ethanol, purchased from the same company. As I'm 225 lbs, tire pressures are always 29F, 36R. Rear shocks are set to 3 of 5. I only carry the topbox when my daughter rides or...I purchase a couple of pizzas

I purchased the bike in May 2020. "Recommended" maintenance: drive belt, air filter, oil & filter, drive oil, brake fluid, coolant, even changed from rollers to sliders was completed at 16K as I wasn't sure what the previous owner had done. The only thing not replaced were the tires. The "born-on" date reads 0616. The previous owner purchased them (early 2019) with about 13K on the odo. I purchased the bike with 14.9K on the odo and have just under 19K on it now.

As always, thanks in advance for the knowledge-filled replies. Much respect for all you. Good day.

There's several things that can cause idle to drop on a fuel injected bike, since you don't have a FI light- it kind of narrows your possibilities and 500 rpm swing is kind of excessive, a drop in rpm when hot outside usually indicates a rich condition(vice -versa for cold), it could be either the fuel pressure regulator going bad, (regulator failure was common on early models, but still prone to failure, buy oem, not ebay !!) and/or a leaking/dripping injectors causing overly rich condition, try a fuel injector cleaner like Berryman B-12 Chemtool, 4 ounces to a full tank or 2 ounces to 1/2 tank, B-12 is very strong. Try to do a long trip to burn thru whatever amount you mixed or dilute down with more gas before storing, in any case try at least a good hour trip to be effective. Otherwise check and clean connectors.

General check of vacuum hoses and connections is a good starting point. Good luck !!

The cold fast idle is driven by the fast idle wax unit; this device opens extra air passages when cold to speed up the idle It is possible the FIWU on your bike has seized in the "hot" position so not doing what it should when cold.

Terry Smith wrote:

The cold fast idle is driven by the fast idle wax unit; this device opens extra air passages when cold to speed up the idle It is possible the FIWU on your bike has seized in the "hot" position so not doing what it should when cold.

Good point, but IMO is also possible that is stuck in the cold mode or plunger seat is dirty, etc., dumping more fuel thru the cold start circuit in all modes of operation, would explain some of the other symptoms. OP should check spark plugs to see if they are dark/rich.

Quote ...

" I've noticed is a ... '"throatier" sound and definitely more vibrations upon acceleration. Quite a bit "thumpier" to say the least. I can only liken it to a single cylinder sounding bike. "

Well here in moisture ridden central Florida OAT was 90F(32C) about an hour ago, it felt about 103F(39C) if you factor in humidity, SW was cold, but sat out in the sun in my concrete driveway about 10 minutes before driving 5 miles to store. Started bike, idle speed 1,250 rpm, waited approx. 15 seconds before driving off, at 1st stop sign at 1/2 mile, idle dropped to approx. 1,150, arriving store idle was steady at 1,250, on the way back at long traffic light stop 1,300, just for reference.

KIM that in general, at full operating temp., when your bike is idling or at steady throttle settings/cruising the FI works in closed loop mode, best economy mode and uses info from O2 sensor, etc., to adjust injector time, for best fuel ratio, emissions, etc. IOW it will compensate for a rich/lean condition, up to a point, based on how fast the computer reacts. When you accelerate or the throttle is in movement the FI goes into open loop, ignores the O2 sensor, it uses less parameters to determine fuel map, kind of written in fuel schedule, more about power and acceleration, richer mixture. It will not compensate for rich or lean condition caused by other issues.

BUT...(there's always one ) when you start cold is always open loop(rich) initially because the O2 sensor needs to warm up, 5-30 seconds ?? and other sensors are out of their normal range.

Sorry for the rant, just a loosely put together PSA, may help understand how it all works.