Drive Belt Change

Yesterday, new OEM drive belt. Let my local Honda dealer to it, as same Mech that did some previous warranty on rear end, did it. Quick.

Cost: Belt, one hour shop time=$242. To me just one of the expenses of rubber band drive scooter, especially a big one. Check rear clutch, any bearings, check rear end oil==all ok.I now since, first Helix, 1990 in Japan, have about 400,000 miles rubber band drive experience----only one belt broken/chewed up underway, but change near Honda recommend intervals...Helix in VA, belt was at high end of service life, Honda Riders Club came to get me, took me to friend's garage, I carried new spare belt---Helix belt could be changed with out taking pulley off.

Something based on years of experience, keep bike in order,any breakdown on trip can be very expensive.

This belt will safety take me over the 50,000 miles I want out of this bike.

I always change belt at 16000 mls. Although I recently had the drive belt break on my Burgman400, fortunately I wasn't too far away from home, as my Burgman is now 17yrs old and just clocked up 30,000mls and it looks like it was the original belt, so it did very well to last as long as it did. New belt cost fifty five pounds andi put new rollers in.

It took me about 3 hours to change mine including making "the tool". Belt cost about £60 from Dave Silvermans.
First time I've a rubber band so next time should be quicker.
Easy to work on these bikes :-)

Use the appropriate torque sticks ($55 from Harbor Freight) and an impact wrench (air or electric; do not let the weight of the tool rest on the bearings) and you do not need a holding tool. I have been doing this for over 10 years.

My '03 400 Burgman:



HF torque stick set:

I used to use them when working in the Sears Auto center. After a year of using them, Sears went back to torque wrenches. I think Sears must have had some law suits regarding loose tire lug nuts.
I always used torque wrenches. If you are confident in your torque bars then more to you. That is my 2¢ worth.

Torque wrenches are somewhat more "idiot proof" than torque sticks. Used properly the sticks work great.

Used properly =

Use an impact rated socket, regular sockets will deflect absorbing some of the impact energy messing up the torque being applied to the fastener;

Do not use an extension, even an impact rated extension, the extension will behave as an unrated torque stick messing up the torque being applied to the fastener;

Do not use some absurdly massive 800 lb.ft impact wrench with an 80 lb.ft stick; a plain ol' 225 lb.ft air tool will work fine for sticks up to 160 lb.ft ( I use an air tool rated for 160 lb.ft with 60 to 100 lb.ft sticks);

Do not "lean on" the impact wrench thinking the torque stick is the same as a torque limiter; watch the socket/fastener, once it stops rotating you're done--as in let go of the trigger, remove the wrench and move on--also there is no need to "recheck/reapply" the torque, you're done.

Used properly they are extremely accurate, and repeatable. And like any spring unless deformed they will be the same each time you use them--today, next week or next year--without the need to be calibrated.

They work by torsionally deflecting and thus absorbing the impact blows. It's like trying to drive a nail into a board hanging out over the end of any support; the nail will go in so far but at some point it will not matter how hard you hit it or how big a hammer you use that's as far as it will go...

I did make a variator holding tool for the Silver wing, years ago, but, I now have a 12volt impact driver that has torque setting display, I used this on the Burgman, so no need for holding device on variator or clutch housing, worked very well.