Altering clutch engagement point

Hello from Sunny and Warm, Saskatoon Sk Canada

I am still riding daily, as our November temperatures have been near 0 C at 8am and as high as plus 15 C at 4 pm.

I am requesting advice from the group on altering the clutch engagement point on my 2009 FCS600A9, with 13,500km on the odo.

I find that in stock condition, the clutch is starting to engage very lightly at about 2000-2100 rpm. From about that point to 3000 rpms, I get a lot of vibration, presumably from the clutch, and not the belt (new belt installed at 8500km).

I am guessing that a higher engagement rpm would mean a smoother and more vibration free acceleration. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I speculate about the higher engagement point as I inspected the clutch pads and clutch bell when I changed the belt. I polished the clutch bell with 2000 grit paper and then the 5 clutch pads with 800 grit, all to remove slight glazing. After reassembly. the clutch engagement point was closer to 2800-3000 rpm, as was buttery smooth.

The stock variator weights are being used and showed no signs of wear.

Would changing variator weights provide the desired effect without messing with top end speeds etc, too much.

If I service the clutch again, would using a small amount of copper based anti-seize lube in the pivot pins, make a difference?

Thank you group. I read all posts to try and embed as much great info into my brain, as possible. Knowledge is power as they say.

Regards: Reg

Hats off to you for riding in that brisk Saskatchewan weather, Reg.

Switching to 26gm (or lighter) Dr Pulley Sliders will engage the variator much closer to the power band. That means that you'll be increasing the the initial RPMs when you start off. Higher initial RPMs means the clutch shoes engage sooner.

You won't notice any loss of top speed.

I wouldn't use a copper lube on those pivots though --just my personal opinion. However I would remove the shoes, clean up the pins and spray them  (the pins) with PB Blaster Dry Lube. Goes on wet, dries to a white powder in seconds. 

Tim

Max.
I bought my 09 in August with 13,000km and had the same vibration in the plastic.
Most annoying.
Took the clutch off. (very easy) Sanded the pads to remove glaze. The inner clutch drum was also glazed and scored a bit. Sanded it to remove glaze and most of the scoring.
I sanded by hand and it didn't take that much. Before reinstalling clutch put a dab of grease on little roller bearings in the clutch. After assembly it didn't seem to make much difference. But once things got seated again it make a big difference. I have put 3000 more KM on it since then and it is still good.

Hi you guys,

I had a similar theory about the clutch pad pivots. I put some copper grease on them but when I rode the bike I had a howling coming from the clutch. Took it apart again and found that the grease had spread itself all over the drum and pads. Cleaned it up again and left it all dry. Seems fine now.

There's an enormous amount of centrifugal force inside there, I only put the tiniest amount of grease on them but it still flew off and contaminated the pads and drum. It also gets pretty warm in there so I guess the grease becomes more 'fluid'.

I think I read somewhere that it should all be left dry. I'm no expert but that experience taught me something.

I'd like to lubricate the variator too but again, I hear that it should be left dry for the same reasons.