Repacking Driven Pulley Assembly Grease

I am changing my DRIVE BELT for the first time on a 2008 SWing at 19,000 miles. I took off the DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY to have a 'look see' at the clutch pads and what I can see inside the shaft area without disassembly of any of the parts within the DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY. The pads look good - but I can see the balls showing in the roller bearings - looks like they need a bit more grease, and the roller bearings seem like they could use some more grease also. All of the bearings seem just fine and I am not experiencing any problems with the final drive operation. So, I am going to pack in a bit more grease onto the bearings before I put things back together again. Section 10 (coupled with Section 1) calls for the DRIVEN FACE INNER SURFACE to be packed with grease (Lithium Based Grease such as Shell Alvania R3); however, when referring to the needle bearing, roller bearing, o-rings, and seals in the DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY, the manual just uses the term grease. So, I am not sure if all the grease in the DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY should be Lithium Based Grease (especially as it pertains to the needle and roller bearings - which are not sealed bearings) OR should some of the grease be another type of grease? Does anyone have a grease conversion chart so that I can determine what are 'equivalents' to the Shell (as I have yet to find a store that carries Shell)? The grease inside the DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY is incredibly stiff - which I imagine is typical for lithium based grease.

Some other questions. Has anyone every taken the DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY apart for the express purpose of cleaning and greasing? Did you replace the o-rings and seals? Did you notice any need to do this or any improvement upon reassembly/use?

Thanks!

My opinion...
- There is no problem...do nothing.
- Don't use "some grease".
Pretty warm in there.
Grease according specs.

See workshop manual or ask dealer.

Eddy

If you have some mechanical ability removing the clutch assembly is easy. No special tools needed.The only bearing that needs to be inspected is the needle bearing in the driven clutch.The bearing requires very little lube.I pack it with high temperature wheel bearing grease.Not the thick stuff. Use it sparingly. A little goes a long way.This bearing is only effective at idle and rotates with the shaft when the clutch locks up. I would advise not to take the clutch assembly apart. If it is not broke leave it alone.Clean the clutch shoes with some medium sand paper and blow out the whole assembly in a well ventilated area.Also sand the the inner surface of the clutch drum.
You should probably change the final drive lube at this time if it has not been previously been done. Howard

One more word of caution.It is my belief that the belt will set or stretch in the direction of rotation(see arrow's on the belt) and if installed in the opposite direction will stretch the belt in the opposite direction and shorten its life. Howard

NWSSC wrote:

>.It is my belief that the belt will set or stretch in the direction of rotation(see arrow's on the belt) and if installed in the opposite direction will stretch the belt in the opposite direction and shorten its life. Howard

With 70,000+ miles on my '03 SW I've changed the belt a few times. And while I agree that the arrows marked on the belt need to be facing the direction of rotation, I can't quite understand your idea that the belt would stretch in an opposite direction.

The belt is going to stretch longitudinally. I don't understand how, if it stretches, say, front to back it would be any different than it stretching back to front. Ultimately a stretched belt is going to perform less efficiently than a tight belt.

Tim