Replacement oil filter for Honda Silver Wing.

With both Honda and Harley-Davidson there is crossover meaning that you can put inexpensive car parts on either bike. If you are on a road trip on your Silver Wing you should change your oil filter and change it often. Instead of going to the Honda Dealer (they are not open on Sunday and Monday anyway) mosey on over to the nearest Wal Mart and buy an oil filter for a 2009 Honda Civic. The part number is Super Tech ST7317. It slides right in. Screw in the ST7317 by hand as tight as you can. It is longer than OEM so to remove it you will have to have an oil filter wrench like they use on boats. That means more or less a pair of pliers where the nose is shaped like an oil filter.

That may work...but actually Super Tech ST6607 is the same length as OEM!

I don't like them though and have gone back to OEM...the casing is alot thinner,and melted a cable on my Goldwing that rubbing against it...

You can get a 10 pack for $72.50 (10% off every holiday when they have a sale)
(Easter's coming! Time for a Sale!) :bounce1:

http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=7277&str=4&ID=449503810
(IT'S THE SAME FILTER AS THE SW!)

Both dealers within a 30 minute ride of where I live are open on Monday. the one that is about 45 minutes away is also open on Mondays...

Ive never changed my oil while on a trip, but have before and after. I generally go about 5,000 miles between and have found that I can get a discount by buying the filters by the case and using my military ID.

Wait a minute guys you may be flirting with disaster! You can't put just any Wal Mart brand oil filter on your Silver Wing. Does the ST 6607 have a 14 P.S.I. overflow valve for those cold mornings in Wisconsin just like OEM and the ST 7317?If the ST 6607 doesn't have a 14 P.S.I. overflow valve on it and you put it on your Silver Wing you could be flirting with disaster!

Pete H wrote:

Wait a minute guys you may be flirting with disaster! You can't put just any Wal Mart brand oil filter on your Silver Wing. Does the ST 6607 have a 14 P.S.I. overflow valve for those cold mornings in Wisconsin just like OEM and the ST 7317?If the ST 6607 doesn't have a 14 P.S.I. overflow valve on it and you put it on your Silver Wing you could be flirting with disaster!

Not sure...But I ran 2 of 'em back to back in my Goldwing...no problem except for cable that rubbed agains it,and lost it's insulation

plus they VERY hard to get off! I'm stickin' with OEM

Hi All

SuperTech filters are made by Champion Laboratories who make Mobil One and Bosch filters and also some automaker brands.

While they may not have the advanced filter media of the highest efficiency and highest priced filters, they are considered premium filters and will perform well installed on your Swing.

DennisB :D

DennisB wrote:

Hi All

SuperTech filters are made by Champion Laboratories who make Mobil One and Bosch filters and also some automaker brands.

While they may not have the advanced filter media of the highest efficiency and highest priced filters, they are considered premium filters and will perform well installed on your Swing.

DennisB :D

I agree,but when you go to tighten these on,they seem to want to keep turning,and I have managed to overtighten these very easily as opposed to OEM filters....& I know I'm not the only one!!
Check this thread out!!
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54104&highlight=Fight

Just one more "story" on the subject... Didn't know if the oil had ever been changed on my '05 (2K miles) when I got it last June so did it myself. Naturally I couldn't get it off by hand so tried to use my standard oil wrench (the springy type that tightens only one way) and it was a bit large. Then took an old leather belt and cut a section to fit between wrench and filter and "voila" it came off with normal effort.

I changed with synthetic oil and used the 7317 to put back on. I always go on hand tight like the filter says but then add just a little bit more with the wrench; not everyone's hand-tight is the same so I make sure... never had a problem that way.

And if I'm not to badly mistaken, isn't the 7317 larger than the OEM? Seems like I remember I had to add just a bit more oil to make the dipstick read correctly.

I can't vouch for the information in the link I'm supplying below, but it sure caused me to think more seriously about which filter I use.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

Mark

I am well aware of the California Scientific report. I read it when it came out. I can say this-if you are on a long trip-such as from Daytona Beach to Los Angeles-change your oil filter and change it often. For expample-when going from Daytona Beach to Los Angeles change your oil filter in El Paso.

Thank you very much for that picture of an oil filter wrench and yes the ST7317 oil filter is longer than OEM.

Just a note. That was a very informative report that guy wrote and I can't dispell anything he had to say. I can only go on my own driving experience over the last 45 years. During that time I used Fram filters and standard oil in whatever
vehicle(s) I had. Most of the vehicles I managed to put at least 80,000 miles on with my last 5 vehicles (cars/trucks specifically) going well over 105,000 miles. Not once did I ever loose an engine because of any engine oil related problems.

My point?? The oil and the filters had to be doing their job effectively or the vehicles would never had made it that far. Plus, I have to admit, I didn't always follow an oil change schedule like one should, which would normally compound any problems. Being an Air Force jet engine mechanic and cognizant of oil contaminant sampling procedures I always tried to pay attention to the condition of my oil when I did change it (in order to look for those nasty little metal shavings). Never saw any problems.

In short, my personal belief is that if a person uses a good oil filter and good oil and changes it at a decent interval that they determine is correct for them, that they won't have any catastrophic defiencies to put up with. Now, like the guy who wrote the report, I'm certainly not an expert in this area and I'm certainly not a spokesman for Fram filters. But all this hoolabaloo sure seems like a lot of needless worry to me despite all the data presented.

forgetabutit,

Can you redo your picture and make it smaler? That way it we won't have scroll over to read all the posts. Thanks.

I did a google for the ST7317. Read this one.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=371

I think there is a link there that compares several oil filters.

I just changed my oil and filter. I bought a High Teck not sure of the number. I am going to look at the number and find it on the site. Hope I didn't mess up. I bought it from a non Honda bike shop. The mechanic recommended it. Now I have a way to verify his expertise.

Gary

forgitaboutut wrote:

That may work...but actually Super Tech ST6607 is the same length as OEM!

I don't like them though and have gone back to OEM...the casing is alot thinner,and melted a cable on my Goldwing that rubbing against it...

You can get a 10 pack for $72.50 (10% off every holiday when they have a sale)
(Easter's coming! Time for a Sale!) :bounce1:

http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=7277&str=4&ID=449503810
(IT'S THE SAME FILTER AS THE SW!)

I'm not really sure if the Wal Mart brand oil filter is made of thinner metal than OEM. If it is then it would get hotter.

JeffR wrote:

forgetabutit,

Can you redo your picture and make it smaler? That way it we won't have scroll over to read all the posts. Thanks.

Sorry 'bout that....just wanted people to know about a "vise grip type Filter remover" available!

NAPA filters are rebranded WIX filters. They are about as good as you can
buy. The NAPA part number is 1358. My last one cost $11.35.

Any one use a K&N oil filter like the nut on top

Hi Eldon,

I once had a K&N oil filter installed for my scooters first oil change. After that I used WIX and Wal-Mart's SuperTech filters. All worked well.

Hello, I'm absolutely new here. However I've been riding over 50 years, many different makes and models. Charter Life Member of the AMA.

I am always amazed at how many people scramble to save a couple dollars for parts (including a critical part such as oil filter) to put on a machine that cost thousands of dollars. (My now gone Gold Wing was LOTS of thousands of dollars.)

That being said, we all know that the dealers get a high price for OEM parts and the parent company is making it's profit too. But, the fact is that they engineered, R&D'd, and provide the parts that they deem appropriate for each machine. As far as oil filters and air filters go, the factory parts keep warranties in place, not to mention avoid raised eye-brows if your scoot has to go into a service department for work.

The oil is a different matter, the owner's manual spells out what type oil to use. Still, making a trip to the dealer and stocking up on a couple filters and enough of their oil to do a couple changes should give the peace of mind that your SWING (that cost thousands of dollars, remember?) is being properly maintained.  And you do not have to worry if the by-pass valve pressure is correct or not, you have the factoy oil filter installed.

I just got my 2007 SWING, and plan to get a factory oil filter and Honda recommended oil to do my first oil change. I do not know what has been used in the past, but I will know what's in it from now on.

No, I do not own Honda or oil company stock. Rant is complete, thanks for reading.

From an old guy with a new toy.

Fluids always generate lots of discussion along with tires. I use Walmart filters on both the SWing and the VT1100T. I have used WIX filters on my 750 ACE. No issues so far. I keep the recommended schedule for changing the oil. I figure that with the frequent change of oil and filter the engine will be quite happy.

SuperTech filters are no longer available and haven't been for quite some time.

I buy an extra Honda Filter and carry with. Ive only had to change oil once on a long ride (5500 miles) but the spare filter is same as insurance.

I use the Fram PH6607 filter and Wal-mart brand 10w40 oil. Wal-mart don't own any oil fields (yet) and the oil probably comes from the same oil drum as the brands Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki comes from..........I think it's a psychological thing!

I'm not a Charter Life Member of anything so on my last oil change I used Castrol 10w 30 oil instead of the usual 10w 40, it's the correct JASO, API, and all that stuff for the Silver Wing as recommended by the Owners Handbook. The same oil is now in the final drive too.

I bought four Champion COF104 oil filters when I was ordering some other stuff from Germany, I had a discount voucher and the exchange rate was favourable. Champion oil filters are an off the shelf replacement recommended by quite a few service item specialists, and I can easily get them at a national chain of auto parts stores too.

I recently changed the coolant, once upon a time you just checked you were buying the ethylene glycol stuff recommended for aluminium engines, nowadays the container labelling is more about the stuff they've added so your kids and pets don't accidentally drink it. I found it simpler to ride my push bike down to the local Honda car dealership and buy genuine Honda Type 2 coolant there.

At 60 I still do my own work so I DON'T have to drop my bike off some where. The 6607 or 7617 seem to work great. I learned a long time ago that 10W30 was a great oil. Even my Honda car calls for 20W synthetic, but I ignore that for it is just Federal gas mileage standards. Use 10W30 meets or exceeds new car warranties. Walmart, cha,cha,cha!

My '93 Goldwing had almost 180,000 miles on it when I sold it for a GL1800. I used DELO 400 for almost all oil changes and used a variety of different filters. The engine was still running like new and not using any oil between changes. I changed oil at roughly 5000 mile intervals. If I was on a long road trip I didn't change oil until I got home so some changes went longer. It's my opinion that steady running as the bike gets on longer road trips (>2000 miles) is easy on the engine and its oil. It's the short trip usage that does in oil.
My SW got the same oil, and various filters, which are the same as those used by the Goldwing 1500 and 1800, and didn't complain.

So is DELO 400 petroleum based, synthetic, or semi-synthetic oil?

DELO 400 is available in petroleum based and synthetic. I've used Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 which is a petroleum based oil for many years in my trucks, cars, boats and motorcycles as well as my scooters.

Twisty, a member of the Steve Saunders Goldwing forum was an oil consultant who knew his stuff about oil in internal combustion engines. Check out some of his posts on the link below. In summary: A Silverwing or any other CVT setup is a good bit easier on oil than a air-cooled or motorcycle with an integral transmission because it's watercooled and doesn't have a gear box. The water cooling keeps the temperature of the oil down and the lack of a transmission using the engine oil prevents the viscosity from being broken down as fast.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/266772-synthetic-heavy-duty-oil.html

Yes, And since I change it every 2K whats it matter? Little molecules of a certain size keeping the metal from grinding.

FYI: On my recent oil change, I visited two Walmarts and found updated info. regarding filters that are appropriate for the SWing:
I could not find any ST7317 filters, but found the following:
Walmart ST 6607
Fram PH 6607

The ST 6607 has written on the box the following:
"Compatible with Fram PH 6607, Mobil 1 M1-108A, and K&N HP-1008"
Also the following is written on the ST box: "Made in USA."

I believe that the FRAM GX6607 is a better item made with stainless steel end pieces instead of cardboard Glen can correct me on the item number.

Easyrider wrote:

I believe that the FRAM GX6607 is a better item made with stainless steel end pieces instead of cardboard Glen can correct me on the item number.

XG6607 is Fram's best, designed for synthetic oils and can do 10K if memory serves.  I use these a lot. Still cheaper than K&N and OEM filters too.

That said now that Walmart has redone the SuperTech filters I have bought a couple and am going to try them out. They also are listed for synthetic oils with a high change interval plus about half the price of the Fram.  Will keep you posted.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Supertech-St6607-Oil-Filter/52730889

I believe they cost around $2.97 USD. Made in USA supposedly...

Hi I`ve just slipped up and fitted a Hi Flow HF204.

I bought it when I got my silverwing 2 years ago and did`nt like the look of the button inside being so high and close to the threaded part.

So bought the proper Honda one and it was much further away from there where the oil must come out ( or go in ? ).

Anyway I daftly kept the HF204 on the shelf and today realised with shock that it was 4200 miles since my last oil and filter change, usually try for 2.5K slipping to 3K sometimes.

I should of just popped in just some fresh oil for 1500 say, but decided to use the HI Flow jobby even with that lack of space in there.

I did notice it came with some oil already on the rubber o ring.

Anyway bunged it on popped in the oil and started her up.

Yee gods for 5 seconds the engine sounded so noisey and bad etc.

Went for a 3 mile spin and it felt less zippy ( even though still warm) plus also more whiney, also when backing it away, but I may have just been hyper sensitive to it, but that aweful noise on start up etc.

Anyone have any thoughts on the HI Flow or filters with less room to that button etc. There is also a a 951 number HF one as well I think possibly.

I`m tempted to do the 1 1/2 hour trip on 4 wheels to get a proper honda filter on Monday and some more oil and hope I`ve not done any damage.

Appreciate your thoughts etc. Thanks

Seems normal to me engine makes some noise until oil pressure comes up. Mine has always done this since new. Next time fill the filter first and quickly screw it on only takes about two seconds till noise goes away.

As long as it's not leaking you should be fine. Damm screen and spring are strange never know if it's fully seated in case why Honda used this I'll never know.

Hi Thanks, thats helped me somewhat.

Its never done that noise at a change before for me though, so thought I had cocked up using the HI Flo job.

I love this flippin bike so much I may still creep along Monday though !!!!

Thanks re the fill up advice too. I`ll give it a go next time.

I have also been wondering about using 5w40 fully synthetic ?

But have been using the motul 10/40 semi for so many years now.

Late model GoldWing oil filters are same as SilverWing. Eases finding one, Good Honda dealer should have them.

If you don't feel safe with that filter replace it. Some newer filters don't have proper clearance and would bottom before fully compressing gasket. leak

5w40 10w40 will be fine. A 5w40 can be thicker at 60 F than a 10w30 at same temps it just doesn't thin as much at higher temps. Motul is good oil.

Isn't 10-30W oil the recommended grade for the last few years with Honda? I noticed, living/riding in Japan where 10-30 has been recommended from Honda for years and US 10-40 the recommended grade----My scooter, Fusion(Helix in N America) ran free-er with 10-30 than with 10-40-----Case of water cooled SilverWing oil related engine failures are rare if not unheard of.

I used Castrol 10w 30 at every oil change for the last few years I had my Silver Wing, I changed simply because it's what the Owners Handbook recommends, even though 10w 40 is the norm. I also used Champion oil filters as they were easy to obtain and they didn't leak or corrode in between changes.

I also had two new oil filters left over when I sold my Silver Wing, they're no longer surplus because and they're exactly the same Champion oil filters they specify for my 2018 Forza.

Hi Flo filters are fine. Some dealers use them so they must be OK.

10w40 was rec. for ealier SW than at sometime Honda said to use 10w30 . Either way both oils will work fine. I've used 5w30 in colder months and no problems with that.

2003 service manual has a chart page 3-11 showing many different oils that will work.
20w40 15w50 15w40 15w50 10w40 and 10w30 for up to 90F

I've been using Castrol Actevo 10w30 in 2013 SW Doesn't use any and stays pretty clean at 3k changes.

Changed it yesterday. HHHHot and humid today but road it about 150 miles.

Just while we are twittering on, anyone tried Power One Castrol 10w 40 in the Silverwing.

I think I`m going to give it a go after about 1 or 2K and bung on a Honda filter.

Thanks

Oil that stays clean at changes=is not doing its job.

john grinsel wrote:

Oil that stays clean at changes=is not doing its job.

Or more than likely changed before it was time = wasted oil. Funny how we learn something from dad that was more or less correct manyyyyyyyyyyyyy yearssssssss agoooooooooo but today has and is outmoded. Read and head the owners manual the companies print them so one knows when to do what. 3 k oil changes are ok, thinking that way 1 k oil changes are even better.

john grinsel wrote:

Oil that stays clean at changes=is not doing its job.

I have to disagree. Oil is keeping the engine clean thus no sludge or dirt builds up nothing to remove except combustion by products. We've all seen photos of dirty engines for lack of regular oil changes but properly serviced never would've gotten that way.

My drive to work is only one mile IN car. Change that oil every four months regardless of mileage. Short trips and never gets hot enough to burn off moisture, fuel contamination.
So in some cases oil needs to be changed short trips ECT.

I have to agree with Mech 1 twa that clean engines does not get oils very dirty providing oil is changed after 2000-3000 miles. My car and swing oils look pretty clean @ 2000 miles because of regular changes. My little trick is to star scoot and warm up to operating temp. Then drain oil and remove filter and wait about fifteen minutes. Then place a rag over oil filter housing and start and run engine for about 3-4 seconds and let drain ,wait about fifteen minutes . Clean and install new filter and add oil. This way you remove about a cup or more dirty oil left in oil pump. After a thousand miles the oil will look new. I do this in all my vehicles.

oil with the right additives in it/included comes out dirty/dark/black period.

john grinsel wrote:

oil with the right additives in it/included comes out dirty/dark/black period.

.

That's true John IF you leave it in long enough, a one mile to work another home a day is FAR worse on the engine and exhaust system than a 50 or 100 miles a day run. My 05 calls for oil and filter to be changed every 8,000 miles, I do it once a year even though I might not reach the 8k mark, if anyone wants to do it earlier that's fine with me their money not mine.
I look at it this way they make really good engines, I watched them being made more than once, I've been in factories that don't hold a candle to them for cleanliness and quality. THEY WANT you as a return customer so I hardly believe they would set up maintenance schedules that would harm their products making one avoid their product.

I ride a lot, change oil often--SilverWing every 2,000 miles, filter every other change. Over 90,000 SilverWing miles=no engine trouble. Current Kymco XTown every 1,000 miles, unfiltered, Same with Helix---had 4 over 175,000 miles, again no engine trouble, again oil not filtered. Oil Walmart 10-40---cheap available everywhere in US. Of course long trips where miles pile up quickly, go to longer change intervals.