Oil change

First topic message reminder :

I changed my oil and filter today I just bought the swing about 2 Months ago And the previous owner had a dealer change the oil just before I bought it.When I took the drain plug out the spring came out but no screen. Well of course I thought that the dealer lost it or just left it out.After reading another post about someone putting it in backwards I decided to check it buy sticking my little finger in the drain hole Well there it was Upside down Thanks to these Forums We are able to do a lot of the maintenance ourselves and do it right Tony

Bill,

I wish you the best, and I believe I prefaced my comments correctly. Sorry about that.

Bill, by dino I mean regular oil as opposed to "synthetic". Just a bit more info for you: you can use any 10w-40 oil in the SW. It need not be labeled "Motorcycle oil" where you pay a premium as long as the circle on the back of the can does not specify that it is "conservation" (or somesuch). Most other grades of oil, like 10-30, 5-40, 5-20, etc do say that on the back and are intended mainly for autos to improve milage and lack some of the additives that cycles & scooters require. Take a stroll thru Walmart and read the labels.

On the other hand, you can get Valvoline dino motorcycle oil at walmart for under $4 a quart or Valvoline synthetic MC oil for $8. Mobil 1 syn MC oil is just under $10.

I noticed today that Walmart had Penzoil 10-40 in 5 qt jugs for about $15; this is regular 10w-40 dino for cars, and being non-conservation, also suitable for scooters.

Personally, I'd stick with an oil labled JASO/Ma in 10-40 for your climate. Earlier I suggested 5-40 thinking for some reason you were here in the SE, but Vegas is, I believe hotter, so the 10-40 will serve you well all year round, be it dino or syn.

Heres a forum about oils and may be a bit overwhelming at this point but if you scroll down to the section on motorcycles you can read what others say. Many of these ride cycles which use wet clutches....thats where the transmission shares the same oil as the motor...and its highly recommended that motorcycle oil be used as they don't have any undue slippery stuff that will cause the clutch to slip. Most Japanese motorcycles use wet clutches, most BMW's and some other Euro's cycles do not.

In our scooters, we don't have transmissions like cycles so the type oil is not as critical. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

Bigbird: good info...thanks. Not that it matters but I think Victory has upped thiers to about 8K.

Just curious tho, how many of you go the full 8K or anywhere near that?

I changed my previous scooters, and will also on the SW, about every 4K. They're just so easy to do, it makes me feel good doing it.

In contrast, the Can Am calls for synthetic oil with both oil and filter change every 3K. Its both water and oil cooled, yet the temp guage fluctuates considerable, rising to an "acceptable" level during slow traffic to the point that the radiator fan comes on. It is one highly technical machine and not at all easy to do your own oil changes. Mine has the electric clutch and that model uses a transmission filter as well as one for the motor. Neither are the screw on type; much like the B400.

.

bigbird wrote:

... our Swings have a recommended oil change interval of 8k miles ....

I read in the owner's manual that the filter change schedule is 4K miles but he oil change interval is 8K miles. If I change the filter the oil comes out....

I think something got dropped in translation. I am going to shoot for 3-4K on everything.

And I just bought the oil and filter at Honda. $35 + $2.50 for a washer for the coolant plug. The old washer will be kept as spare.

https://www.silverwing600.com/t1550-on-line-owners-manual?highlight=owners+manual

Please check page 89 of the booklet pointed to in the link of the first post of the thread.

Honda Motors recommends that the oil and filter be changed at the initial service point, 600 miles (1,000 km) and the recommended interval thereafter (for both oil and filter) is every 8,000 miles (12,800 km).

Checked both of the owner's manuals we have in our garage and my service manual for a cross reference - same result.

Yes, I know the link is to a 2005 owner's manual. No fault there, the 2009 owner's manual that bigbird most likely used to come up with the original 8,000 figure serves as an ample cross check.

I just changed my oil and filter to day. I used Castrol full Synthetic oil 5 w 40.
I for one thought all synthetics where all the same and superior to regular oil. I installed a WIK 51356 filter .After oil change I notice ABS light was on,and stayed on. I figured , being on the center stand ,was the cause for ABS light to stay on. A Respond would be appreciated .

Oddly enough my previous post contains a link that will take you to an owners manual. Check page 19.

"ABS indicator light
Lights when there is any abnormality in the anti-lock brake system (ABS). Normally, this indicator comes on when the ignition switch is turned ON, and goes off after you ride the scooter at a speed above 6 mph (10 km/h). If the indicator comes on while riding, stop the scooter in a safe place and turn off the engine. Refer to , page . For information about ABS, see page 70 Lamp Check."

Tinman do you have a 'User Manual' the one that comes with the bike. It is available online in .pdf format. It will answer a lot of your 'light' questions regards to what lights are on/off in the various power modes.

I'll try and locate the link.

Link for Owners manual.

http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/FJS600DA-2007.pdf

yes I have a owners manual It was in my sw and I retrieved it to day when
I pulled my sw to do my oil change .I will read it again to understand my sw better. I will have to read again tonight.

tinman wrote:

yes I have a owners manual It was in my sw and I retrieved it to day when
I pulled my sw to do my oil change .I will read it again to understand my sw better. I will have to read again tonight.

I have to admit it is probably the only manual of all my 'toys' I refer to. Simple jobs like resetting the clock when we, (UK,) move between time zones. Even tyre pressure elude me at times. (Age I suppose.)

I know. If its not one thing " Its Two "

If you want to avoid clattering engine parts after an oil change, spin the engine with the starter with the ignition off.
This is what F1 teams do to pressurize the oil in their engines before starting them. They also preheat them to reach full temperature clearances which reduces cold engine wear.

SCTLVR wrote:

If you want to avoid clattering engine parts after an oil change, spin the engine with the starter with the ignition off.

How can you engage the starter with the ignition off? Not that I'm worried about engine wear for the brief time after an oil change, but engaging the starter with the ignition off has me baffled. Oh, by the way, welcome to the forum.

I hate to extend this thread any more but I looked in my Maintenance manuel and my owners manuel and they both recommend 10w30 viscosity.

Thank you HiYo.
My scooters will spin the motor over without starting it with the side stand down or with the shut off switch on the bars in the off position.
After an oil change, I put the switch in the off position, and with the key on, spin the engine with the starter several revolutions before switching on. Don't go more than about five seconds because the starter motor can overheat.

My 2-1/2 cents. Shell's Full Synthetic is the choice of most truckers and I've been running it in my Goldwing & Pick-up for years. Walmart filters are no longer available but the purolator is and a gallon of oil & the longer filter set me back $24 + tax. Honda oil & filter are of lesser quality so for my first change (2002 w/5500mi) I stuck with what I know is the best money can buy.