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honda_silver
Silver Wing Guru
Silver Wing Guru
honda_silver


Number of posts : 2453
Location : Georgetown, Tx
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Registration date : 2008-12-23

Parallel Wiring Empty
PostSubject: Parallel Wiring   Parallel Wiring I_icon_minitimeWed Apr 21, 2010 7:58 pm

Someone was having a problem accessing on the other website so I copied to this site:

I am just about to start putting my tupperware back on ... just before I do I thought I would provide some wiring details.

My goals have been to ensure no stock wire modifications not even taping the stock wire. If there is any problem I want to be able to quickly disconnect the additional wiring for problem determination. Please note that some ideas were borrowed from this and other forums.

Grounding blocks
I added two grounding blocks http://electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/02207.htm



- Front
Mounted under the left front cover facing left in the

framing above the bottom of the left glove box rubber bushing

- Rear
Mounted under the right cover behind the air filter housing facing up above the square frame The front grounding block is connected to the rear grounding block with a 10 gauge wire
The rear grounding block is connected to the negative battery terminal with a 10 gauge wire

Power plate
I added two power plates http://www.electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/pplate.htm

- Rear
Mounted under the right rear cover on the frame facing down just above the rear right seat storage panel for fuse access.

The power plate is directly connected with 10 gauge wire directly to the battery and is always active (no relay).

- Front
Mounted on the top outside rear portion of the left glove box with just the fuses accessible from the glove box

** Note**
To avoid front fairing tupperware installation problems all of the wires should be routed toward the rear of the framing
closes to the dashboard (I would zip-tip loosely to rear vertical frame member) should have sufficient slack for movement

The front fairing turn signal extends into the "triangle area" of
framing on both sides

Powers
Extra Spare
10 gauge wire
Routed near rear power panel just in case
I need a rear off/on power panel in future
12V DC power
plug mounted in top left of glove box (15A)
Power Plug
kit, Universal http://www.electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/pplug.htm

Stebel Horn (15A) in front cavity upright approximately behind
the speedometer even though I have an ABS model.
http://www.bikerhiway.com/horns-29/stebel-nautilus-compact-motorcycle-air-horn---black-74.html

I grounded the aluminium bolt into a U-channel would
allowed me to slide over the frame and fasten

zip-ties and hot-glue
If you try shaking or moving
you shake the whole bike
Original horn wiring
not modified - just connected with male blades
Kuryakyn
LED voltmeter (15A)
http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.htm


The front power plate is connected with a 10 gauge
wire wire to a relay which is mounted under the left rear panel on top
of the square frame.
The relay is directly connected to
battery with 10 gauge wire
The relay is grounded to the rear
grounding block (above) - 2 wires (10 gauge power and 18 gauge relay
power detection)
The relay is connected to the front power
plate with 10 gauge wire
The front power plate will only
turn on when the running lights are on
Connected to
the S-TAT running wire (below)
The relay provides "+"
charging wire that disconnects automatically when then power is detected
(running lights on)
The Batter Tender Plus is connected
here - the plug is lays near the front of the under seat storage
compartment
Negative wire of Battery Tender Plus plug
is connected to the battery

Running/Left/Right/Brake lights

I added a Super TAT (S-TAT) http://www.twtouring.com/tap_a_taillite.htm

The S-TAT provides a 6-pin "Y" connector adapter (male/female/6-bullet
wires) that connects to the 6-pin adapter under the left panel near the
rear left seat storage panel.
The S-TAT connects to the the 4 of
the 6-bullet wires.
I added 4 inline fuses (15A) right after
the bullets for protection
Wished I used http://www.customdynamics.com/posilock_connectors.htm
Posi-Lock®️ Flat Fuseholder
The S-TAT is powered/grounded from
rear power panel and grounding block
The
Running/Left/Right/Brake/Ground lights wires are routed over the back
outside top of the seat storage below latch
Each of the wires
above is connected to 3 wire block
http://www.customdynamics.com/cage_clamp_connectors_details.htm
3 Position Cage Clamp®️ Connector

Input

Output 1
Connected to 14 Gauge wire which is routed for
access under rear aluminum wing
Other end to allow quick
connect/disconnect http://www.customdynamics.com/posilock_connectors.htm
Posi-Tite waterproof connector
Outside under the
rear aluminum wing will be a 5 wire block to connect wires as needed on
the rear
http://www.customdynamics.com/cage_clamp_connectors_details.htm
5 Position Cage Clamp®️ Connector
Givi E52 brake
lights will be connected here
Investigating

Knight Rider Sequential 12 LED Light Bar with Flashing
Brake Alert http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_led_light_bar.htm

Signal Dynamics wigwag http://signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/wigwag.asp

LEDs
Output 2
Connected to 14
Gauge wire which is routed to behind the right front glove box -- for
the future
** Note**
To avoid front
fairing tupperware installation problems
should be
routed toward the rear of the framing closes to the dashboard (I would
zip-tip loosely to rear vertical frame member)
should
have sufficient slack for movement

The wire harness are wrapped
in Gorilla tape for protection and follows the same path as the main
Honda wiring
3 - 10 gauge wires
5 - 14 gauge wires
separately for access in the future
These wire harnesses had to cross
the frame, I chose to cross on the thick cross member frame (which is
bolted) just in front of the rear storage compartment.
The wire had
to be routed and zip-tied to the rear of the cross member frame and do
not cross over the frame ...
otherwise you will have problems when
you put the under seat panel back on because it rests right on this
frame.

So the Honda battery has only
two "+" connectors

two "-" connectors
everything else is connected via the power plates
and grounding blocks.

All of the fuses are the same size, so I
do NOT need 4 sets of spares. I am hoping to add any future
equipment quickly and easily ... we shall see. I will try to take
some pictures during daylight to capture all of this.

These pictures are in my Album:

Parallel Wiring Extra_10
Parallel Wiring Stebel10
Parallel Wiring Stebel11
Parallel Wiring Front_10
Parallel Wiring Rear_p10
Parallel Wiring Rear_w10
Parallel Wiring Lights10
Parallel Wiring Lighti10
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