Heavy / Hard to Push

Question, being this is my second scooter (first is the wife PCX150), and my previous experience is with my motorcycles (GL1800, Venture, GL1200, VStrom 1000). This seems very difficult to push, and I am not sure it is normal or not? I understand it has an CVT transmission, so not sure if that causing some of the drag. I realize it is almost 600 lbs, but still seems a bit difficult to move (without the engine running). I did check the parking brake and it is "released" (by position). Does anyone else notice if this seems to be an issue? Anything else to check?

Thanks in advance
Stuart

2003 Red Silverwing
2007 Blue Goldwing 1800
2013 PCX 150 (wife's)

It shouldn’t be significantly hard to push. Put it up on the center stand and see whether the rear wheel is free turning. That parking brake caliper might be stuck. I know that on my ‘03 I bodged a return spring to that caliper because it was, all too frequently, getting jammed —aaand I rebuilt that caliper several times. Never made any sense but it never failed after adding that hardware store spring.

You might also jack up the front wheel to check whether that wheel spins freely.

All the above is assuming that the tires are properly inflated.

Thank you so much will check those items out.

If its cold outside the reduction box/gear oil gets really thick. Once ridden for a bit it gets warm and seems to thin out. But check what is recommended above.

Looks like might be the parking brake. I got the bike on the center stand, the rear tire is difficult to rotate, and when I do rotate it, I hear the parking brake scrape. The cable seems to retract fine, but not sure if the pistons are not retracting or something else. Need my wife to check the front tire (while I put weight on the rear), then will check it’s free rotation.

I've never looked at how the parking brake works, dealer does the check-over when it goes in for service, but I dont think its to hard to work on. Funny about using the wife to get the front wheel up. I had mine press on the rear rack on the Liberty scooter today at the self serve car wash so I could clean the front wheel. I've also used her to pull motors, assist on fork removals, drop a boars head out of a truck and other "helper jobs".

sc00ter keep this one good helpers are hard to find.

I'm on my third SW and like the others don't have any problem moving it around my garage by hand. Sure a lot easier to move around than any of the Goldwings I used to own.

Follow up - it was the rear brake was seized, not the parking brake. This Swing had sat for a long number of years un-used. I unbolted the brake from the frame and the tire rotated with the caliper stuck in place and started rotating with the tire. I gently worked it loose. Much easier to push now. Going to either re-build the caliper or buy a used one from Ebay.

The caliper is relatively easy to rebuild —especially if you have access to an old-school brake cylinder hone.  Partzilla is your friend. ~$30 + brake fluid.

I concur with Cosmic Jumper, Partzilla is an excellent place to go to online. I've purchased a lot of parts from them, always good service.

One thing that sold me on them was ordering a tall Givi windshield from them for a friend's Silverwing. When it came via UPS the one of the little wind deflectors on the bottom of the windshield was broken. It was well packaged but the box had been pretty well mistreated in shipping. I called Partzilla and they told me they'd ship out another one to us ASAP and to return the first one in the box that the new one came in. No cost to me. When we got the new one there was a return UPS shipping label in the box.

Most places won't replace anything until you send the defective one in first.

Well the old caliper was pretty spent. The pins were completely seized, Ann the pistons had some corrosion. I picked up a clean gently used caliper on eBay for less than 50 bucks. The used scoot came with a spare set of EBC pads in the trunk, so I put those on. Quick swap and the problem solved. Still need to flush and bleed the system, but one problem sorted. Thanks for the advise!

SW has linked brakes rear applies a small piston in front caliper. Flushing it not difficult just an added step on the front caliper. 2 bleeders on front 1 on rear. To bleed the rear start at front caliper first then the rear. Never let masters go empty and air will never get into system.

Dielectric grease is a good slide-pin lube. Petroleum grease is not swells rubber parts and sticks the sliders.

Looks like a bit of snow coming our way this weekend. NE. won't be long till spring.