Just changed the belt and installed new 21gr Dr Pulley sliders !!!

First topic message reminder :

Well, I just finished replacing my Mitshubitsi (?) belt, a Kevlar one, and installed the 21gr Dr Pulley sliders. I took it for a test ride, and I have to say, that I think the 21gr sliders are right there with the J. Costa. I had the 28gr sliders and decided to try the 21gr to see what they are like.

The rpms at highway speed, 70-80 mph indicated, are right where the rpm's were with the stock rollers so this isn't bad. The rpm's under this are about the same as the J. Costa though, which keeps it in a really nice power band. At 80 mph my rpm's were at 6200 and with the 28 gr were at 6,000. I was expecting them to be higher with the 21 gr sliders.

But when I was coming off a ramp to get on the interstate, I was doing about 20 mph, and then I hit it with WOT I thought I was either about to take the front wheel off the ground or have my rear tire about to spin. It was that kind of feeling of power. It was only about a 10 mile ride so I have to get quite a few more miles on it but I really feel this mod, with the 21 gr sliders is equal too or maybe a bit better then the J. Costa. But I want to get more riding time before I compare them in that way. The J. Costa is a great improvement in performance and it is hard to believe that these 21 gr sliders are about equal. So let me get some miles on it and I will give a better comparison.

I will post pics of the new belt and the belt I just took off. I think I could have gone quite a few more miles but I just don't like to chance things. I'm 50 now and I just don't wait until things break or go flat anymore. In my younger years I would be riding on slicks but that was then. I will give a better update after some miles and also post the pics later today.

BTW, The malossi rollers that come with malossi variator and malossi rollers sets are identically sized, the variator comes with 2ea./8ea. roller, sets (21+24gr), the individual 8ea. roller sets, can be purchased from 17-28gr.

JohnyC wrote:

Mike, just a thought, do you still have the Malossi Driven clutch plate spring? (the big white one).
That will hold it in a lower gearing for longer if you nail the throttle, but won't affect top end performance.
It's how I run mine, but with 26 DrPs, although I'm probably gonna get some 28G DrPs.

Just my pennies worth.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

Hi Johny , I’m gathering some parts for its first trip in for maintenance since I never got it’s service history from the previous owner DRP 28x20 sliders that fit in the OEM variator  and DRP slides SP 2820W ,and a new Malossi belt,Hyperpro springs to help with the diving nose but regarding the white clutch spring can you tell me if this is the correct one, https://www.racingplanetusa.com/torque-spring-malossi-white-l130mm-honda-silver-wing-p-21129-1.html#.ZCb6nRApBvI ,,also going to change the motor oil,gear oil,and coolant,,and here the million dollar question would you care to give a guesstimate the hrs of labor I can expect to see on the bill for the items listed,the reason I’m asking I’d like to establish a maintenance history on the bike and would like to know if the shop is treating me fair or is a rip-off ,I believe it was mentioned in this thread that the DRP sliders work in the OEM variator,am I correct with that ?

Thank you and ride safely

Hi johnbil09.
I am the wrong side of the pond to "best" advise but it appears to be the correct spring.
I expect zrx212, or anyone state side would know for sure, also give you advise on labour costs/expected time to complete. Being retired I don't keep track of the time each job takes, I just plough through till done.
Yes the DrPs will fit a stock variator

hope this helps

JohnyC wrote:

Hi johnbil09.
I am the wrong side of the pond to "best" advise but it appears to be the correct spring.
I expect zrx212, or anyone state side would know for sure, also give you advise on labour costs/expected time to complete. Being retired I don't keep track of the time each job takes, I just plough through till done.
Yes the DrPs will fit a stock variator

hope this helps

Thank you and I understand what you mean about not keeping track of labor , I’m still thinking about doing it all myself if labor is more than a few hrs I know I can handle it as long as no special tool are needed for the spring and I’d have to pick up a torque wrench which I should’ve owned by now anyway,I’m a city dweller and park it on the street and I’m worried if a hiccup happens to me and I can’t move the bike for the street cleaner that comes around twice a week….

Ride safely

Malossi only makes one spring for the SW600, I got mine here https://scooterpartsco.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=100_3511&sort=20a&page=2 , great prices and fair/cheap shipping cost, they have 3 pages worth of parts for SW600, if you can place an item in shopping cart, it is in stock.

I've found the SW600 cvt, to be one of the easiest to work on, given you have some mechanical abilities and/or watched plenty YouTube videos, etc.  

I'll attach a few pics showing some of "my special tools", a good/large 90 deg, expanding snap-ring pliers, really helps when replacing torque/contra spring. I've have used my drill press to compress springs, but have migrated to the 1/2 threaded rod method, using suitable sockets and pieces of wood, etc., is safer IMO. 2nd pic show my Burgman 400 but is similar idea.

Hi again john. Ok I understand your mind set now.
What you need to do is work out a game plan for the work you will do. plan for weekend work, less chance of being disturbed.
The only time you won't be able to move your Swing is when you take the front wheel off to replace the fork springs, working on the service or drive train you can roll it back or fourth should you need to.
The Malossi white spring will require some form of compressor, I used some threaded bar, a few washers and nuts, check my post pictures on "Malossi White post". Or search "tools" on our forum search for various ways to do it. There are also some good vids on YouTube to.
You will need a universal pulley holder to hold the varaitor while you crack the front nut to remove the drive belt, and again when you torque it back up after completion.
So read up the order of disassembly a few times, check you have the tools needed, don't multi task, either do the service first, or the drive chain, a couple of small containers to keep screws/bolts separate for each layer you strip down and a sharp intake of breath and go for it.
There's always someone on line here so shout out if you hit a problem.

Hope this helps

Be safe, be seen and heard.


Ps. thanks zrx212 for the above post

BTW, possibly some useless info , but lots of Japanese scooters CVT oem belts and very likely the Malossi ones are made by Mitsuboshi https://www.mitsuboshi.com/english/

2nd biggest OEM fitted belts is Bando

Mitsubishi, AKA Mitsubishi Motors makes Cars.

"BTW ...lots of Japanese scooters CVT oem belts and very likely the Malossi ones are made by Mitsuboshi"

I buy Mitsuboshi belts for my BMW C 650 GT for $79. They are THE SAME EXACT BELTS a BMW dealer will sell me. Only difference is BMW is stamped on them and the dealer wants $411.01.

That's one expensive stamp.

zrx212 wrote:

Malossi only makes one spring for the SW600, I got mine here https://scooterpartsco.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=100_3511&sort=20a&page=2 , great prices and fair/cheap shipping cost, they have 3 pages worth of parts for SW600, if you can place an item in shopping cart, it is in stock.

I've found the SW600 cvt, to be one of the easiest to work on, given you have some mechanical abilities and/or watched plenty YouTube videos, etc.  

I'll attach a few pics showing some of "my special tools", a good/large 90 deg, expanding snap-ring pliers, really helps when replacing torque/contra spring. I've have used my drill press to compress springs, but have migrated to the 1/2 threaded rod method, using suitable sockets and pieces of wood, etc., is safer IMO. 2nd pic show my Burgman 400 but is similar idea.

Nice idea of using the threaded rod to compress everything ,so I would need to put equal shimming on the caplike piece that compresses the spring then remove the retaining ring then loosen the threaded rod till the the spring moves freely , then install new spring caplike thing plus shimming and retighten threaded rod until I can install the retaining ring ,
I seen a variator holder in a video made out of flat stock alum about 2 1/2” wide 18” long with two 14/20’s with a hole saw hole slightly larger than the socket head needed for the variator ,I believe that’s a 22mm,,
Does that sound about correct ?

Thank you for posting the pics I feel bettter about doing this myself now..

Ride Safely
John

JohnyC wrote:

Hi again john. Ok I understand your mind set now.
What you need to do is work out a game plan for the work you will do. plan for weekend work, less chance of being disturbed.
The only time you won't be able to move your Swing is when you take the front wheel off to replace the fork springs, working on the service or drive train you can roll it back or fourth should you need to.
The Malossi white spring will require some form of compressor, I used some threaded bar, a few washers and nuts, check my post pictures on "Malossi White post". Or search "tools" on our forum search for various ways to do it. There are also some good vids on YouTube to.
You will need a universal pulley holder to hold the varaitor while you crack the front nut to remove the drive belt, and again when you torque it back up after completion.
So read up the order of disassembly a few times, check you have the tools needed, don't multi task, either do the service first, or the drive chain, a couple of small containers to keep screws/bolts separate for each layer you strip down and a sharp intake of breath and go for it.
There's always someone on line here so shout out if you hit a problem.

Hope this helps

Be safe, be seen and heard.


Ps. thanks zrx212 for the above post

Yes Sir that’s exactly what I was thinking of doing ,and after a little more research on the forum the spacers in the forks aren’t needed with the new springs and that the spacers are up on top which will be saved with the springs , may I ask you mentioned about washers being returned from the dealer with the spacers and springs ,would the new springs be coming with new washers ? I can gather the stuff needed for the variator holder while waiting for the parts to come in…

Ride Safely

Hi john, washers not needed with the Hyperpros, all you need is what's supplied, what you take out can all go into the box for storage. Should be 1 spring, 1 spacer and 1 washer per side.
Watch out when you undo the top cap on the fork after removal as it will be under a small pressure from the spring.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

JohnyC wrote:

Hi john, washers not needed with the Hyperpros, all you need is what's supplied, what you take out can all go into the box for storage. Should be 1 spring, 1 spacer and 1 washer per side.
Watch out when you undo the top cap on the fork after removal as it will be under a small pressure from the spring.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

Ok thanks for the heads up

Ride Safely