Power to gps handlebar mounted

I've searched for directions to run power lead from handlebars thru stem to battery (not using the left glovebox)

Once the handlebar Tupperware is removed, how hard is it to snake wires to battery? Follow frame down then around gas tank?

Thanks!

Best to remove the left floor skirt and left rear panel. Fish the wires along the floor frame and then up between/along side the left cubby pocket and radiator.

Rather than crowd the battery + terminal and tight fitting battery cover I added a terminal to the hot side of the starter relay, under the rubber cover (the other end of that battey hot wire). That will get you a non-switched, hot-all-the-time, lead.

I also ran a 2nd hot wire to a switched relay which I mounted above the ECM. That switched hot wire runs forward and is used for other circuits (spot lights, heated grips, etc).

You can also "T" off that 1st hot wire to feed a cigarette lighter / power outlet inside the left cubby.

Don't forget to add fuses to your new circuits.

Tim

Easiest way to do this is to put a piglet spade connector on the front brake light switch an take the power from there. Done it on all my bikes and keeps the wiring to a minimal. Also powers down with ignition so no flat battery

I added a fused panel under the seat next to the battery cover. All my electrical add-ons terminate there except for when it needs to be controlled by the ignition switch. That way I have a single location to inspect if any of my add-ons fail. I carry spare fuses just in case.

SPCK111 wrote:

Easiest thing to do is use a piglet spade connector and take a feed from the front brake light power feed near the front brake lever. Very easy to do a keeps the wiring to a minimum. Done it lots of times. Also can’t drain the battery as feed is controlled by ignition.

                NEED HELP ON THIS  GMEDREK@NETZERO.COM

SPCK111 wrote:

Easiest way to do this is to put a piglet spade connector on the front brake light switch an take the power from there. Done it on all my bikes and keeps the wiring to a minimal. Also powers down with ignition so no flat battery

WHICH ONE EXACTLY IS THE FRONT BRAKE LIGHT, THE 4 PLUGS?

MIRONWORKER wrote:

                NEED HELP ON THIS  GMEDREK@NETZERO.COM

Get a 1/4” piggyback wire terminal (AutoZone, Advance Auto, O’Reilly, etc). Attach (crimp / solder) the positive lead (+) from the GPS harness to the piggyback terminal. Mate the piggyback terminal (with the GPS wire) to the Black/Brown (Bl/Bk) wire and terminal of the right side brake light switch. Attach the other (-) GPS wire to an appropriate location on the Silverwing frame.

The GPS will be powered only when the ignition is ON.

Please turn the Caps Lock on your keyboard OFF. It is considered rude to type in all uppercase letters.

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

MIRONWORKER wrote:

                NEED HELP ON THIS  GMEDREK@NETZERO.COM

Get a 1/4” piggyback wire terminal (AutoZone, Advance Auto, O’Reilly, etc). Attach (crimp / solder) the positive lead (+) from the GPS harness to the piggyback terminal. Mate the piggyback terminal (with the GPS wire) to the Black/Brown (Bl/Bk) wire and terminal of the right side brake light switch. Attach the other (-) GPS wire to an appropriate location on the Silverwing frame.

The GPS will be powered only when the ignition is ON.

Please turn the Caps Lock on your keyboard OFF. It is considered rude to type in all uppercase letters.

Or, alternatively, use Posi Tap wire connectors for 20-22 ga wire —available at the same sources. No crimping or soldering. Insert over the Bk/Br wire as in Step 1. Then the GPS + wire as in Step 3.

I love those Posi-Tap connectors!! They work great.

thank you much, thanks to your help and taking the time, i think i got it this time. no rudeness intended with hi cap,thanks again. never been a biker,but love my silverwing recently picked up this summer

Get a 1/4” piggyback wire terminal (AutoZone, Advance Auto, O’Reilly, etc). Attach (crimp / solder) the positive lead (+) from the GPS harness to the piggyback terminal. Mate the piggyback terminal (with the GPS wire) to the Black/Brown (Bl/Bk) wire and terminal of the right side brake light switch. Attach the other (-) GPS wire to an appropriate location on the Silverwing frame.

The GPS will be powered only when the ignition is ON.

Please turn the Caps Lock on your keyboard OFF. It is considered rude to type in all uppercase letters.

[/quote]

Or, alternatively, use Posi Tap wire connectors for 20-22 ga wire —available at the same sources. No crimping or soldering. Insert over the Bk/Br wire as in Step 1. Then the GPS + wire as in Step 3.

[/quote]

I probably missed it somewhere but I hope someone said that the GPS leads should not be cut so as to remove the voltage converter that many manufacturers use.

I usually program a destination in my garage at night so I decided to use an unswitched wire on the handlebar. Then I don't drain the bike battery with lights. I can also keep the gps fully charged if I want to unhook it for use in the car. I mounted the gps and started wrapping the wires around the column just below the handlebars and spliced into handlebar power and connected to ground on the handlebar mounting. Cable ties hold the wiring neatly in place without rubbing and everything about the gps turns with the steering and I didn't need to cut any gps power lead. Can easily be removed.

About that caps lock thing: I always observe the etiquette but I never attached any significance to the use of all caps. Matters not to me. Maybe Tim was just getting it out of the way before others weighed in more forcefully. It really does irritate some people.

1Wingman1 wrote:

I probably missed it somewhere but I hope someone said that the GPS leads  should not be cut so as to remove the voltage converter that many manufacturers use.

I usually program a destination in my garage at night so I decided to use an unswitched wire on the handlebar.  Then I don't drain the bike battery with lights.  I can also keep the gps fully charged if I want to unhook it for use in the car.  I mounted the gps and started wrapping the wires around the column just below the handlebars and spliced into handlebar power and connected to ground on the handlebar mounting.  Cable ties hold the wiring neatly in place without rubbing and everything about the gps turns with the steering and I didn't need to cut any gps power lead.  Can easily be removed.

About that caps lock thing:  I always observe the etiquette but I never attached any significance to the use of all caps.  Matters not to me.  Maybe Tim was just getting it out of the way before others weighed in more forcefully.  It really does irritate some people.

                                    
 well said,thank you

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

MIRONWORKER wrote:

                NEED HELP ON THIS  GMEDREK@NETZERO.COM

Get a 1/4” piggyback wire terminal (AutoZone, Advance Auto, O’Reilly, etc). Attach (crimp / solder) the positive lead (+) from the GPS harness to the piggyback terminal. Mate the piggyback terminal (with the GPS wire) to the Black/Brown (Bl/Bk) wire and terminal of the right side brake light switch. Attach the other (-) GPS wire to an appropriate location on the Silverwing frame.

The GPS will be powered only when the ignition is ON.

on the right brake,2 set of wire, cant tell which is brown,either i hooked it up to wrong one, or the ground to bike not right][/quote]

There are only two wires leading to the right side brake switch. One Yellow/Green (Y/G), one Black/Brown (Bl/Br). Bl/Br should be hot when the ignition is ON.

If you are using the piggyback terminal it should be easy enough to flip flop the connection from one switch terminal to the other. If using the Posi-Tap just move it to the Bl/Br wire.

It might be easier to access those wires if you remove the handlebar shrouding. Then you could also access a frame ground at the handlebar mount bolts. 

However, be advised that reattaching that shrouding, while simple enough, can be a PITA get it snapped together so that it doesn’t rattle. If that’s the case think Gaffer Tape.

hello,it didnt work for me, dont think i had it grounded to frame correctly,also dont think rear brake light works when squeezed now. ill figure it out

good morning,think i blew a fuse or burned a bulb if rear brake lights dont work?

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

There are only two wires leading to the right side brake switch. One Yellow/Green (Y/G), one Black/Brown (Bl/Br). Bl/Br should be hot when the ignition is ON.

If you are using the piggyback terminal it should be easy enough to flip flop the connection from one switch terminal to the other. If using the Posi-Tap just move it to the Bl/Br wire.

It might be easier to access those wires if you remove the handlebar shrouding. Then you could also access a frame ground at the handlebar mount bolts. 

However, be advised that reattaching that shrouding, while simple enough, can be a PITA get it snapped together so that it doesn’t rattle. If that’s the case think Gaffer Tape.

MY REAR BRAKE LIGHT DONT COME NOW WHEN BRAKES ARE SQUEEZED,FUSES UNDER SEAT APPEAR TO BE GOOD,ANY SUGESTIONS?

Do you have rear lights and/or horn works when key/switch is on ?? if not, "B" fuse is blown(front fuse box, 2nd from front), restore whatever you did, is either causing a short or drawing to much power for the circuit.

it is back to original status,cause it didnt work for me. but no rear brake light,thanks all for the help

This thread is an excellent example that demonstrates the lengths that our fellow forum members go to in attempting to help others. Each of us has many talents but I believe that it was Dirty Harry who said that we must know our limitations. Sometimes we just have to bite the bullet and pay a pro.

Or at least buy your own Factory Service Manual, then you'll have some visual idea of what you're tinkering with.