A stripped down SW for sprinting?

Out of curiosity, does any one know if anyone has ever stripped down a Swing for sprinting? Or maybe put the motor & transmission in another frame for said purpose?

Given how fast a Swing is in its rather lardy standard form, I keep wondering what a stripped one would go like!

Until I've got rid of a couple of my other bikes, I won't be in a position to try it for myself on another Swing.

If you want to see what it would look like bud, see this thread ....

https://www.silverwing600.com/t5177-silver-wing-without-it-s-plastic-shell

Cheers. I've just taken off most of the back end to access the intake air temp probe and to remove the air filter housing to get some measurements. there's a lot of plastic! That seat and the rear grab rails weight a ton! Despite removing a lot of weight, the bike still feels very top heavy, all up at the front.

Would love to have space for a second Swing and to be able to strip it right back for laughs. Imagine how fast it could lunge forward at say 150kg wet!

Any way, mines all going back together soon, once I've got my measurements and made it easier to swap the IAT sensor to modify the fuelling.

Sorry hear you went to the tedium of stripping the back end off the bike to get to that IAT sensor when all that was needed was a right angle Phillips head screwdriver.

It was worth it for a bit of an investigation. I've now got the measurements I need, plus I've put a little 'chocolate block' connect in line with the IAT sensor wire. So I can easily swap between sensors while testing. I've also got a pair of very large K&N pod filters on the way to attach onto the plenum chamber and replace the air filter box. I wasn't sure which would fit the best, but being they were about £35 each with post, I just got one of each

The only problem was that I forgot to reconnect the rear light wiring loom, so when I went out I had to turn around and nip home to reconnect it!

[quote="gavinfdavies"] < SNIP > I've put a little 'chocolate block' connect in line with the IAT sensor wire. So I can easily swap between sensors while testing. < SNIP >[/ quote]

So then you could add a DPDT switch along with that chocolate block so that you could toggle between the two different IAT sensors.

IIRC there was a fellow on the ADVrider forum who extended one of those Epcos NTC probes so that it could be mounted up front for cooler air flow.

Yeah, if desired. Not sure on the benefit of being able to hot swap. And why bother moving the IAT (which might change the temp 2-3 degrees) when I can just fit a more appropriate one? I've got 3 choices at present, with 20, 25, and 30 degree Celsius offsets to choose from. The plan is to get the new air filter fitted up, then get the bike back on the dyno and do some back-to-back runs with different IATs selected. Should only take a minute or so to swap the wires. Once I've got the power-curve and fuelling finalised, the last step is to tune the transmission to move the target revs into the middle of the power.

The baseline dyno run was completed last week. Stock engine, the only change being the 22 gram Dr Pulley sliders and sliding pieces. The engine mileage was 4,500 miles, and the fuel was 'normal' unleaded (95 RON, as opposed to premium 97/98/99 RON etc).

Fuelling is a tad rich at high rpm, which is good. The bump in power should be ignored, as that is a side effect of the transmission fully engaging and having a bit of a flywheel effect. The highlighted RPMs are where the transmission finished fully engaging, and then peak power.

36 HP stock to rear wheel but its fun to ride. How much more HP do you think is possible from mods?
You are on the right track matching engine power to drive line for better acceleration. 0-75 MPH is where its at for this type of scooter.

Nice shock spacer from other thread. Keep posting. Thanks.

The exhaust alone without a new fuel map is supposed to give an extra 3hp, this seems right as various exhaust manufacturers claim this - I've even seen a few dyno graphs from them.

I'm hoping that with a new filter system and some fuelling mods to get maybe another 5-6rwhp. Maybe a little more if I got some header pipes modified to match the ports in the cylinder heads. But after that it gets more tricky, and we're looking at throttle bodies, cams, porting etc, so I'll stop there.

Maybe if I ever get a properly stripped bike just for sprinting I try some more extreme stuff. Something like a 36mm flat slide conversion and some hotter cams.

Basically, I think of this as a long-stroke 500cc twin, not a 600cc 'normal' motor. So 45rwhp seems about right, like a CB500, or Ninja 500 from the 1990s.