My experience with heated clothing

No great fan of heated clothes/plug ins/wires.

More than 10 years ago, Suzuki GS500E, end of trip to Central America, in Northern Mexico----really cold, I had electric jacket liner and really no other warm clothes along. Liner crapped out!! Put me in $150 a night hotel....to get warm.

Yesterday, hooking up wires for heated bib (prep for trip to Quebec--end of April). Wires run direct from battery, fused,-----for whatever reason turned on, even replaced fuse----did not work. So threw all in trash!

My experience, cold weather riding, feather jacket under riding jacket, real cold add feather vest to that---think, dressed warm, fall off/crash, you probably won't freeze to death waiting for help.

And I hate to be wired/connected to bike----forget you are hooked up, you can actually pull stopped bike over----In Japan, Cops are wired to their bikes, once watched one jump off bike, in hurry, and pulled every thing over.Their bikes have "crash bars" or roll over bars so little damage is done to bike in roll over. SilverWing not!

I ride in all weathers, seldom get cold or wet----but dress for it, including rubber boots or waterproof boots---Still really have not worked out glove/mitt problem in wet/cold, so carry several pair and can usually make it thru day with dry warm hands.

Just added hand guards, mirror stem mounted to my CB300F----they would work on SilverWing-----but do they really work/protect? Have not had chance to ride in all day rain---they do seem to block wind and maybe hands stay warm a little longer. $20 on ebay.

Next bike for me will have heated grips. Did once have really warm/waterproof riding suit--"Thermo Boy" from Germany---so warm you could sleep/rest in snow bank and not be cold or wet.

John I installed the same mirror mount wind deflectors you mentioned and they actually do help. The only thing to be careful of on a Silverwing is when handlebars are turned all the way in either direction the guards will just barely touch the edge of your windshield. Luckily the only time this will occur will be when you are pushing the bike around manually and use all the steering travel. Thanks for your great information as usual.

Down garments work by your body heat warming the air space or loft between the down, and they are effectively in cold, dry conditions. We don't have cold dry winters in the UK. It's well known that getting a down garment (or sleeping bag) wet makes it useless as it loses all warming insulating qualities, making that jacket effectively useless. You can't dry out down garments quickly either.

With a similar style jacket or vest filled with a polyester fibre, you can get that wet and it'll still keep you warm.

I have a Keis heated jacket, it warms my collar, back, chest, sleeves, and around my kidney area. It plugs directly into the left glovebox 12v socket on a long lead. It has a big red 'Remove Before Flight' tag fixed to the cable as a visual reminder. My Keis heated inner gloves plug into sockets stored in zipped pockets on the jacket sleeves, and I can adjust the heat levels using the jackets variable heat controller.

The jacket also can be used with battery leads, and I also have the Keis remote push button heat controller that I can fit onto the handlebars and it's no different than switching on my heated grips.

The Keis jacket also on works very well on it's own as a casual jacket, and makes a great inner and insulating layer for my unlined Klim Overland jacket, it's a versatile piece of kit.

I am well aware of the shortcomings of wet down gear... secret good outer jacket so you do not get wet on the inside----also have had some luck with poly fill jackets.

Really horrible weather my current Darien jacket keeps you dry for 2-8 hours behind fairing, best for me was Aerostich one piece with Barbour XL size jacket over the top of suit. Warmer and really worked.

Having lived/ridden in Germany for near 25 years and riding everyday, rode thru some really crappy weather.

My question: what are old farts doing out in really bad weather? Well sometimes you get caught in it and have to get somewhere or home. I rode to several Elephant rallies---best solo machine my Vespa P150E----MZ sidecar outfit made it easy.

This thread is most informative and entertaining. Two Silverwing Gurus with different solutions to an age old problem. I am continuing to learn from both of you and not trying to simplify matters but with all due respect would'nt a good fitting high quality rain suit be one answer to the wet jackets, vests, and pants?

Don't get hung up on the Silver Wing Guru label, it's of no significance.

Okay...agreed. What is your opinion on the rain suit as a way to combat wet clothes?

Not rain suit----but real riding outfit like Aerostich Darien Jacket and pants and there are others. I used to like English wax cotton---Barbour fit me best, wear jacket and pants---starts to rain you do not need to put on ill fitting rain suit. But waxed cotton can leave hands/wrists and any thing the suit touched, greasy. But putting on rain suit on cold mornings can add warmth, however.

Once you are wet, puting rain suit over=waste of time, but maybe makes being wet a little warmer.

I don't have an opinion, wet weather riding is all part of the game. I always wear riding gear that has some degree of waterproofing. Whether it's a vented summer suit that can take heavy rain showers and then dry quickly, or a laminated Gore-Tex suit that's literally bomb proof in torrential rain, sheds rain droplets and doesn't wet out.

I carry a pack containing full rain gear including rain gloves and a set of over gloves. Usually I'll just wear a rain jacket to keep a light coloured textile jacket from getting grubby from road spray. My rain suit is a two piece and breathable to prevent condensation building up inside.

The minus side of wearing a full two piece rain suit is desperately having to fight your way through multiple layers and zippers to haul your todger out.  

LOL...........well allrighty then. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and even a good laugh to boot.

Rain suit is good for all conditions above, except, because of its 100% effectiveness in keeping water out, it is also 100% effective in keeping body moisture in.  Wear it long enough, and you will feel very uncomfortable, unless you forget why, and when eventually removing it at your destination, you realize how refreshing it is to take that "unbreatheable" stuff off.  

However, if you are riding into the evening and begin getting cold because you  didn't dress prepared for the cold, pull out that rain jacket, and the blockage of the colder air will get you home with much less danger of hypothermia.  

That's where a simple, light, nylon/polyester shell (wind breaker) that can fit in your smaller glove box can be an excellent cover, even resisting some rain, but being ounce-for-ounce and cubic inch for cubic inch one of the best items you can carry on your bike.  Though not rain proof, these simple body shells block the wind and wick your body moisture enough to keep you comfortable.

I wear a high-viz shell over my mesh armor jacket. The jacket provides the insulating air space needed between my body and the outer shell to keep me warm on all cool--and many cold--days.

I tend to agree. Thank you for the advice bikehiker.

Heated gear can extend your riding season. I've only had one failure wire came loose in plug not the gear. Pulled over and reattached wires i carry some basic tools so no problem.

Its nice for cold mornings or all day trips if needed. You can only put on so many layers and things get tight under normal riding gear. Heat can be adjusted to very low or full as needed.

Gerbing stuff is good. Cycle Gear also sells heated gear. You will need a different style outlet to power it though. Powerlet Site sells this type of outlet.

SW has a good amount of excess voltage to power a vest or jacket liner but not much more.

Well I have been riding most of the winter, I wear the Base layer, windproof layer Keis heated vest, kidney belt, inner fleece and outer layer. I have the Keis heated inner gloves ,but, they don't warm up enough for me ( with setting on low heat, I find any higher setting too warm in the vest). I also have heated handlebars. I bought a pair of cheap gloves, classed as thermal leather( goatskin) for £10 and they have been the best buy, as they are as warm as any gloves I have ever had. It is starting to get warmer now but i'll keep my handlebar mitts on a while longer. I power my Keis vest direct from the battery (via the controller) and run the cable under the seat.

Heat is nice on a cold day. Other options in UK for gear that's good.
I'm running the wire under the seat for now to controller velcro d below right cubby.

Want to do it better no wires showing on tunnel.

I would be interested to see what you come up with Mech 1, as I don't like the wire hanging loose I cut a small groove in the battery casing and passed the wire up and over the Tool holding tray. I just tuck the cable under the seat when not in use.

Mech 1 twa wrote:

Heated gear can extend your riding season.  I've only had one failure wire came loose in plug not the gear. Pulled over and reattached wires i carry some basic tools so no problem.

Its nice for cold mornings or all day trips if needed. You can only put on so many layers and things get tight under normal riding gear.  Heat can be adjusted to very low or full as needed.

Gerbing stuff is good. Cycle Gear also sells heated gear.  You will need a different style outlet to power it though.  Powerlet Site sells this type of outlet.  

SW has a good amount of excess voltage to power a vest or jacket liner but not much more.

Mech 1 TWA,

I have the Cycle Gear equipment, I have discovered that you can discharge your battery if you have set everything too high in current draw. I have learned how to ration the juice so that this does not happen again.Once running again I can turn the current back on.

So far I have had no problems with the Cycle gear equipment, Everything works OK even though I have only used it three winters.

Also I unplug the Waist supply which powers everything, A couple minutes before I stop for Gas. That way I do not hear that sickening click when I hit the Starter Button.

Happy motoring
Lloyd 193.

Drawing to many amps will deplete the battery its also not good for the stator.. Makes it very hot and shortens it life. Installing a good voltage display that indicates battery voltage is nice but i haven't done this on SW other bike yes. Datel volt meter. 13.2 is minimum to keep the battery charged and not damaging anything.
Max charging is at 5000 rpm at idle drops a lot.

Adding power outlets through panels is nice. Controller will need to be mounted in a easy to reach spot near, below left cubby. Wires to gear can't avoid that issue but you must unplug to get off anyway.