Malossi Kevlar Belt

I've put on 8,000 miles since last year and just noticed the yellow light came on right a 16,000 miles.
My friend and I were prepared thanks to the forum and I just ordered it today. I don't know what kind of reputation
scotterpartsco.com has but we will see how good it is when it arrives. I called them today and it seemed so far legit and they have
a good selection of Malossi parts. Best part was the $117.00 dollars shipped to the house.
https://scooterpartsco.com/honda-scooter-parts/honda-silverwing-600


i haven't seen much on the kevlar belt or any reviews, so I thought this would be a good time to start a thread on them.

The belts Honda fit at the factory have Kevlar in.

Other companies use the 'Kevlar' bit as a sales gimmick.

My observation of discussion on a variety of forums is that most riders find the factory-fitted belts are the longest-lasting so replace like with like.
They may cost more but offer much better value for money.

Good luck with new belt. I used OEM belt from Partzilla:

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-23100-MCT-003.html

OEM would be $125.98 incl. shipping (to my address) from Honda Parts House. I don't know what a dealer would charge OTC or if it would be available in stock.

You can pick them up on eBay for $117 including shipping.

Belt arrived today in the mail with a half dozen malossi stickers. So it's all legit and good. Looking at the malossi variator too from what I saw on you tube that makes the swing hit that sweet spot right out of the gate and perfect torque range too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll9zNKYNork

I just went through the whole "Is an aftermarket belt better" thing too, I noticed a lot of the use of the term "Kevlar Belt".....The thing is as MikeO points out, ALL of them have "Kevlar" cord for the tensile members, as ALL belts have had for the last 30 Years, it's called Aramid fiber. Kevlar is simply DuPont's trademark for their fibers. Timing belts, serpentine, and V-belts all have been using aramid fiber for a long time.
It's like a label on milk that says "No Caffeine", or "Gluten-Free Rice"
Either a belt has brand name aramid fiber or it has generic brand fibers.

What would be interesting would be the new carbon fiber belts Gates is doing for snow machine racing, although I doubt the difference would be measurable on a 50-60 hp drivetrain ....
Maybe the lighter wallet in your pocket would increase your performance!

ozzman wrote:

Belt arrived today in the mail with a half dozen malossi stickers. So it's all legit and good. Looking at the malossi variator too from what I saw on you tube that makes the swing hit that sweet spot right out of the gate and perfect torque range too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll9zNKYNork

Please keep us posted on all your Malossi upgrades. We're interested in seeing your results as compared to the experiences and results many of us have had with Dr Pulley Sliders and OEM belts.

No problem CJ.
I'm gonna take her in and drop her off at the shop later today after the rain goes away.
The 24gr. rollers came a couple weeks ago. So I set an appointment to fit her in Thurs. to do service and adjust valves, put on new malossi belt with malossi rollers, new front michelin sc tire and brake pads up front. By buddy bought a 2003 reflex last fri. and goes to find out driving it home the speedo cable gears started going nuts on him and the shop I took mine to hosed the guy twice on repairs with the speedo cable at the same shop I'm going to. My other buddy with the swing took it there to have a back tire put on and messed up putting the wheel not putting in back on the rear axle right. I'm getting the impression they F*** stuff up too much. The other honda dealer hosed me before and I'm never taking it back to the other shop in town.

So what do I do?

There 3rd shop scratched up my rear swing arm behind the muffler trying to pry of my rear tire without taking off the muffler first.

Here is my stock Tach/mph results before up grade.

rpm mph
8000 100
7000 90
6000 80

This belt stuff interesting....and modify drive line----anything other than OEM waste of money----I speak from now about 400,000 rubber band drive scooter miles....and only one broken belt underway.

OEM belt lasted me up to 20,000 miles with new SilverWing.

Bike shops who never or seldom work on SilverWings can really screw things up.I do own work in most cases, except warranty

I buy my parts only from local Honda dealer---they have done warranty work for me,too. Just ordered matched set of tires, there, too---mail order doesn't pay if there is trouble

Note:at But 40,000 miles will change belt again and rollers/sliders, this time let Honda do it.....incase other little parts in drive line worn out or fall out at that mileage.

ozzman wrote:

    So what do I do?      

Learn to do it yourself

It seems like you've got 3 dealers in your area who've screwed things up. And you've got two other friends with Silverwings who've also suffered the consequences of doing business with these incompetent s.o.b's.

So you you could split the cost of a FSM and, with the help of Jeff's tutorials and the good folks here on the forum, the three of you could figure out how to do 90% of the things which need be done.

FWIW In all the years I've owned and followed the Silverwing forums I have never heard of anyone actually needing the valves adjusted. If you are so anxious about the valve adjustment be prepared for a major labor bill from any dealer --and given your recap of the competence of your nearby dealers, be prepared for them to screw up more than they will actually repair.

Learn to change your belt. Learn to remove the wheels; take the removed wheel to a dealer and have them replace the tire. Save an extra $100.

Tim


To rely on others is to seek disappointment

Well, finally something I can speak to. I have two Honda Dealers; one 30 miles north, another 30 miles east. The folks in the East store have been my GO TO folks. I went to the North store and was treated as a waste of their time. The couldn't even supply a standard 5 snap face shield for the helmet. They didn't get off their chair to look for one, didn't offer to order one, didn't offer to direct me somewhere else. So I gave my 500.00 to the East store for tires and brakes. East store tells me that the North store is their best advertisement. From what I can tell, I'm the only guy with a Swing within 100 miles - so I'm by myself. The Factory Service Manual is very good, and I have plenty of tools. Not afraid to get into it when needed. Not that intimidating - if you have the FSM. Visors come from Amazon now.

Well you could be right CJ.

But from what everyone tells me is the manual says 16,000 miles for valve inspection.

Ozzy, read the advice you have been given. You do not need to check the valves. I am on my second Silver wing. I did 40,000 mls on my first one and never once did a valve check. If you have tools and basic mechanical knowledge then "get stuck in" as we Brits say. I have never let anyone service my bikes. I bought my present Silver wing in July 2014. Iam about to fit a new belt and Dr Pulley sliders at 16,000mls. It really is not that hard if you read the manual and take your time.

FWIT, my last Honda CRV had a 100,000 mile valve INSPECTION interval, my daughters 2003 has over 250,000 miles and was checked once, no adjustment needed. Engines have come a long long way and our S'Wings being water cooled have a distinct advantage over the air cooled engines in that department. A winter down time inspection may relive your thought about something that may not need attention at all.

Thanks for the advice everyone.
I just got back from picking up the scoot at the shop.

Surprise, Surprise, Surprise.

Those new rollers and belt fixed my issues.
You're guy's were right.
They said the valves were still good and didn't need adjustment or brakepads yet.
No more turkey sounds like gobbling when taking off or dieseling sounds.

The new tire is even an improvement over the hoops.
All said and done Belt Change, Valve Check, Tire, Oil change, Filter, Gear Oil, Plugs, Total cost came to $403.00. Labor was only $185. $100 for Tire. $50 for mount, balance ans disposal.Figure in the $150.00 the belt and rollers cost and total comes to nearly $550.00.

RPM MPH
4000 45
4500 55
5000 65
6000 75

The lower weight rollers actually dropped your speed at 6000RPM from 80MPH to 75MPH. Next time try the Dr. pulley 24gr sliders. It will drop you RPM by 500 at 60 & 70 MPH and still give the acceleration you desire.

The mph varied a bit but this was what I got today.
Still haven't max-ed it out. But not much has changed on the tach side of things.


Sure seems like it hasn't effected my top speed yet of 115 when it was stock.

RPM MPH

5500 75
6000 80
6500 85
7000 90
7500 95
8000 103

I made a video showing the brief lag at take off and how the tach jumps to 5500 RPM shortly after takeoff and keeps going until it reaches a 100 mph.

http://tinypic.com/r/2h32y4p/9

That 'brief lag' is actually built into the ECU. It prevents getting full HP until the bike bets moving, somewhere around 8mph. The idea was to prevent wheel spin or wheelies. If you go to full throttle rapidly from a standing start it's pretty obvious when the ignition advance cuts in. The exhaust sound will suddenly change from a muffled to a more open sounding tone.

IMHO spinning tires and or wheelies = earlier more drive train problems. BUT it's y'alls equipment to do with what you please, me the fewer problems the better. Heck I 'n even supposed to lean over a running engine.

I don't brutalize my machinery but I do have fun with it and am prepared to repair that which needs it. Lucky for me I have the tools to do just about anything on a motorcycle that needs to be done. I will say my Harbor Freight bike lift sure helps with my advancing age. Getting that bike up off the floor is a real help.

I'm starting to re-think going with the 24 gr. rollers. They do make the scoot hit the sweet spot quicker, but the draw back is after doing a 1200 mile road trip and finding out the down downside of higher gas usage. I'm using as much as 3/4 gallon more in a 100 miles than my buddy on his stock 2013. Over all the fuel issue isn't a big deal, but when we were running 90 mph on the interstate those 7000 plus RPM's made her drink gas. Fuel consumption was down to 33 mpg on one tank. Running at 5500 RPM I get 45-50 mpg.

A 2013 Silver Wing has better fuel efficiency than a 2006 model especially at your high Interstate speeds. The early Silver Wings over here in the UK had a reputation of being thirsty beasts, even now you have a hard time convincing someone who owned an earlier model that from ’08 onwards they became more fuel efficient.

Meldrew wrote:

A 2013 Silver Wing has better fuel efficiency than a 2006 model especially at your high Interstate speeds. The early Silver Wings over here in the UK had a reputation of being thirsty beasts, even now you have a hard time convincing someone who owned an earlier model that from ’08 onwards they became more fuel efficient.

Meldrew,
I did not see an improvement in gas mileage when I replaced my 2002 Swing for a new 2013 Swing. They both had the same shield, top box and sliders. Kept my speed to 60 mph. Still get around 50 mpg. I am not sure if the O2 sensor needs maintenance. DennisB mentioned that his sensor was plugged due to some engine oil he used and had to clean his sensor, but he did not mention how he did it.

Hey Hey Hey


I'm back with an update.
Getting things ready for the summer season.
20,000 miles later the belt is still going.
I did order a new one and it's on the way.
Time for a rear tire too.
She is almost ready to turn 40K.
Insurance check is in the mail too.



If anyone is interested the scooter parts store still has Malossi high performance parts in stock.

https://scooterpartsco.com/honda-honda-silverwing-600-c-100_3511?zenid=44608565a8b14e5a97dcd937506284c0

ozzman wrote:

Hey Hey Hey


I'm back with an update.
Getting things ready for the summer season.
20,000 miles later the belt is still going.
I did order a new one and it's on the way.
Time for a rear tire too.
She is almost ready to turn 40K.
Insurance check is in the mail too.



If anyone is interested the scooter parts store still has Malossi high performance parts in stock.

https://scooterpartsco.com/honda-honda-silverwing-600-c-100_3511?zenid=44608565a8b14e5a97dcd937506284c0

Did your V-light come on between 16 and 20k miles?

I'm back.

Yes it did came on right at 16,000 miles.
The v-light came back on again at around 34,000 miles
and right now it shows 37,917.
I rode part of 2019 when lite came on again and it all last year.
The Malossi belt shows no signs of slip yet.

Yeah - I went with the Malossi belt too. I also replaced the rollers with Dr. Pulley 26g sliders, and slides. I always liked Malossi stuff, probably got that way from owning Vespas in the past. So I'd just add that I bought this  2002 SW just a few weeks ago, with 12,7k mi on it, and very well cared for. Had all the local dealership invoices for the service including a massive 12k servicing claiming to have inspected the belt and air filter etc. And yet when I opened it up it was obvious the belt housing was never inspected. The filter was filthy and deteriorating, crumbling in my hand. The case had a lot of belt dust and dirt in it - as did the variator. And the belt was down to 25mm. I'd never trust that dealer for anything. But I don't trust any of them. I also did the oil and filter, and final drive oil - which was never changed by the looks of it. So anyway, I do feel a difference with the new belt and rollers / slides. Better take off, smoother too. Hey here's a question - who here thinks the variator surfaces should be lightly scuffed vs just cleaned with brake cleaner on a major service? The Vespa mechanic "Robot", seems to think scuffing is the way to go, with a fine sandpaper. And I've got a Porsche mechanic friend who says the same. But I'm not sure if that's needed. I'll be interested to hear what folks think here.

" Hey here's a question - who here thinks the variator surfaces should be lightly scuffed vs just cleaned with brake cleaner on a major service? The Vespa mechanic "Robot", seems to think scuffing is the way to go, with a fine sandpaper. And I've got a Porsche mechanic friend who says the same. But I'm not sure if that's needed. I'll be interested to hear what folks think here. "

Well can speak for everyone, but fairly shure a lot here will agree,  yes you should scuff both the front and rear pulleys faces lightly when replacing the belt and wipe down with alcohol, etc.,soaked rag.
I prefer not to spray brake clean on parts containing seals, the variator brass bushing should never be cleaned with solvent. IAC those pulleys have been polished by and have the footprint if you will of the old belt, the new belt will ride in slightly different areas and needs to break in to pulleys, by installing the sliders you changed/extended the range of belt movement in pulleys. Even NIB pulleys are not polished, I have a full set. I followed "Robot" for years and he is generally right, but not a fan of sanding that much on pulleys, just like to dull them some. In the case of the SW the pulleys are very hard/durable, you won't see the same wear as for example a Burgman 400, so light scuffing/dulling with green scotch brite works for me, ramdon circular motion is best. Make sure to blow away/clean any traces of scotch brite dust.

I usually gently scuff all the pulley surfaces. I often get a layer of burned rubber on the very outer lip of the drive pulley which can be removed easily. The driven pulley stays pretty clean and smooth.

Didn't know that about brake cleaner - I went with it as one of the YouTube videos I watched used it to clean them. Hope I didn't hurt the seals! So far so good though.

petesuz wrote:

Didn't know that about brake cleaner - I went with it as one of the YouTube videos I watched used it to clean them. Hope I didn't hurt the seals! So far so good though.

Don't worry too much the seals are very strong and a lot of people do the same with no ill effects, is safe for brake seals and it dries very fast, in any case, is just my preference not to soak assembled CVT parts with brake cleaner. I'll use to clean removed parts regulary.