In to it good now, maintenance that is. question on rollers ect.

Took it apart and cleaned the rollers and everything else to boot. The rollers and drive hub and everything else is well within spec.

Question on sanding drive surfaces, A. do I really need to? B. If I do I was thinking 400 grit wet / dry for the job, comments? Also had not planned on going into the final but I could sand those drive surfaces as well. Everything was to me remarkably clean, nothing that wouldn't air blast off or at worse a brake cleaner rinse and wipe. I have my new belt ready to go.
Someone mentioned a needle bearing that should be greased, where is it located, I have an OEM manual at hand, a section / page number would be handy.

At 11, 140 miles the brake pads were in such good shape I just cleaned up and checked the pad (s) and pin float, the pads have about 50% to 70% wear left. I'll just keep my new ones handy for later. I did a all area fluid change last year but may do brakes again.
TIA Al

Curiously that needle bearing doesn't appear in the FSM. Page 10-17 shows a good breakdown of the Driven Pulley Clutch.

I wouldn't recommend sanding the Drive Pulley faces. If you are set on sanding those faces I'd go with 2000 grit or better. Do sand the Clutch Shoes and the Drive Bell. 400 Grit seems a little coarse though.

Here is a link to Partzilla's Driven Pulley parts. The needle bearing is item #20.The whole Driven Pulley & Clutch assy comes off with a 22mm nut after locking up the rear wheel brake --no need for a special tool or "Universal Holder as shown on pg 10-10. HTH
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Scooter/2009/FSC600D+AC/DRIVEN+FACE/parts.html

Tim

Thank you very much. I removed the first pulley with my impact wrench so the second should go ok. Yes I'll put them back with a regular socket wrench and finish with the torque wrench' The pulley faces were so smooth and clean I hesitated on sanding those before I asked. I see in the manual the rear pulley showed " special " tools for removal any suggestions there or at these early miles do the come off fairly easy? When I used to do my G'Wings and brake pads didn't need a change out I would give the pad surfaces a light sanding, just enough to freshen them so I can see where the clutch surfaces could benefit from that. I have plenty of fine sandpaper to use on the clutch surfaces.

I'll give another thank you for this site, good folks that are helpful and quick with replies that are really great for a newbie to S'Wings.

A second note, a friend and I looked at a 2002 S'Wing in South Columbus o-hi-o, 29,000 miles for $1,800.00 dollars. It has cosmetic damage but ran very nicely, it's still for sale to someone in that area.

OWG, As mentioned before there is no need for that special tool to lock up the Driven Pulley mentioned in the FSM. Just, set the Park Brake and sgueeze the left brake lever while you remove that 22mm nut in the center of the Driven Pulley assy. It's only torqued to ~45 lb-ft. The entire assy will slide off easy no matter what the mileage of your scoot --it's on a greased shaft, so easy peasy.

Okay, so maybe you might have to tug on it a little if the Clutch Bell is worn and has a slight lip on the edge that the clutch shoes need to get over --like use to hapen on car drum brakes back in the day.

Tim

Again thanks. Off on today's mission, getting new skins for the rims leaving right in the middle of our snowstorm, 8+ inches on the ground and still snowing, at least so far not blowing.