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roboclock
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PostSubject: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeSun Sep 06, 2015 5:26 pm

2003 SW. Insert key and turn, and the Ignition is dead, nothing happens, no lights on dash. Battery is charged. Worked fine a few days ago.

I suspect a ingintion switch is bad. Any one have any tips in replacing the switch?
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Cosmic_Jumper
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PostSubject: Re: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeSun Sep 06, 2015 6:14 pm

I moved your post from 'Tips On Using This Forum' to 'Silverwing Topics'.

Have you checked the 30-amp main fuse?


Tim
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NWSSC
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PostSubject: Dead Ignition    Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeSun Sep 06, 2015 9:10 pm

Roboclock

It is like going to the doctor.We need to here a little more information before surgery.You say the battery is charged. Did you have a another problem and decided the battery needed charging.
Was there a possibility of reversing the cables when you hooked up the charger and blew a fuse as suggested? Where there any other concerns before this episode? Let us know. Howard
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model28a
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PostSubject: Re: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeSun Sep 06, 2015 9:22 pm

You need to remove the left rear side panel and replace the main fuse. When you look at the main fuse on the starter relay you will probably see a good fuse. You need to pull the rubber to see the fuse block and I think you will find it is blown. Hopefully the spare fuse is good then use it and remember to replace it.
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roboclock
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PostSubject: Re: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeMon Sep 07, 2015 8:05 am

Okay, I'll try and check the main fuse today.
I'll keep you posted.
BTW: I did open up around the Key enough to check wire. I have 12.5 volts in the red wire going to the key when off. When I turn the key on, I get 4.5 volt on all three wires, WiERD.. even the Red one.
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roboclock
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PostSubject: Re: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeMon Sep 07, 2015 8:52 am

Not the main fuse as I suspected, since I had 12 volts at the key.

Can I pull the wires off the bottom of the key barrel. And then can I hot wire to see if the bike starts.
There are 3 wires, Red (power) blue/orange, black/red. Can I jump the red to the other two wires? Or just one or the other.
A wiring diagram would help if anyone can email me one.
Rob

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The Bern
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PostSubject: Re: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeMon Sep 07, 2015 3:18 pm

To do a basic switch bypass link the R & R/Bl together, but remember that you still need the ignition key to be within 2" of the switch for the immobiliser circuit to de-activate.
Red is live feed from battery
Red/Black is feed for ignition componants
Blue/Orange is the feed for the radiator cooling fan
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roboclock
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PostSubject: Re: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeMon Sep 07, 2015 6:49 pm

Thanks, That's good to know.

It appears that even though the battery reads 12.45 volts, the battery is no good. I decided to try a jump, and the bike started. I have never had a bad battery that has read good voltage. Hopefully there is not some strange issue else where.

So I will order a new Battery,

Thanks for all the help
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NWSSC
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PostSubject: Dead Ignition   Dead Ignition I_icon_minitimeMon Sep 07, 2015 11:16 pm

It is not uncomin to have a 12.0 V battery with 12.0V and not be able to start a vehicle.The battery power is through the amps.Honda would be the place to take the battery and have them peform a load test.In the automotive industry the batteries have a much larger amperage capacity and there device would not do the Honda battery justice.A 12.0 Volt battery has to be under a load and have x number of amps at a preset voltage, depending on the seize of the battery.Honda or a decent bike shop will have this load testing device. Howard
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