drain plug disaster

hello all
can anyone give me any help on how to remove the oil drain plug cos its solid and stripped as round as a penny
followed the pictorial but never seen the posts on using the six point drain plug spanner, used a 12 point socket
tried mole grips but there aint enough grip left on the plug for them to work
has anyone managed to remove it themselves rather than a dealer do it and how
how would a dealer remove it if its this rounded
any tips, info much appreciated

Hi Chalky,

Sorry to be so blunt....Take the scooter to the dealer and have them remove the drain cap. Order a new one with new o-ring and please remember to always use 6 point sockets on this scooter.

DennisB wrote:

Hi Chalky,

Sorry to be so blunt....Take the scooter to the dealer and have them remove the drain cap. Order a new one with new o-ring and please remember to always use 6 point sockets on this scooter.

thats the easy option dennis but at between 60 to 70 pounds an hour to fix at dealers thats not an option at the moment

You could try filing a couple of flats for the mole grips to get a hold of.

OK...Try heating the engin up by taking a nice long ride. Then take ice and place it on the cap (just to cool the cap down only) and then give it a try while the cap is cold. Do not burn your self in the hot metal under there.

Chalkie,
My old standby has awlays been good ol' vise grip pliers, which is really a questionable practice what with the plug being aluminum. RArch's suggestion is always good too... probably better than mine (especially since I don't know what "mole grips" are... maybe the same??) Anyway, don't forget to try some judicious 'tapping' on the plug to try and jar the threads loose too. That can also be tried when trying to break it loose with whatever tool you wind up with.

Also, if you have the time and determination you could try filing 6 more flats on the plug and use the proper socket for that. And then there are the special ratchet sockets that come with pins installed in the inner diameter that are suppose to slide out of the way in order to 'fit' any size and shape of small part (ie, stripped). Don't know how well they work though.

I don't envy you with that problem. When I first had my SWing I was worried about all I had read about drain plug problems. Bought the special 6-sided socket and was ready to face the worst. Long story short, the damn thing almost fell out for me. Was no problem at all.

So... good luck to ya'. If you can't get any additional help, I can only see taking Dennis' suggestion, no matter how much it's going to cost.

Oh yeah... was just a little curious about your avatar... does it indicate your demeanor? If so, we'll have to make a special section for you, John G, and Meldrew

You could try to reshape the 6 side to fit a standard socket using a flat file. Once a socket fits tap the end of the power bar till it breaks loose.

chalky, welcome to the forum. You can probably take a chisel and tap counterclockwise on what is left of the plug. If that doesn't work the next thing I would try would be to take a drill and drill a hole the size of a big easy out, but that will be messy. If you drill the plug have a pan ready to catch the oil. I know I would keep at it until I got it out and not spend what a shop would charge. Remember it is already broken so you have nothing to lose. Oh and I would get a new plug first. Hope you get it yourself, goog luck.

I would pick up a hand impact driver with the fattest flat driver head. File a groove into the head. Warm up the bike then use ice on the cap. Then use the impact driver. It should come off.

If not go with a 17-20mm screw extractor-drill a pilot hole and let the oil drain. If you can get the impact driver on it, all the better.


But first I would soak it with pb blaster, give it a couple good raps with a hammer then lock on vise grips with the upper jaw facing right as you look at it. A few good taps with the hammer on the top curved part of the pliers should knock it loose.

My last ditch method, used on a previous Sym scooter drain plug which the previous owner had well and truly 'graunched'.

Stielsons. Works every time. Failing that, chisel and hammer and tap in the direction of undoing the bolt.

Welcome by the way and good luck. Let us know what worked.

hi all

a big thanks to you all for your tips and help :not worthy:
managed to get it with the mole grips or vice grips to some
def needs a new plug and theres no strainer present
yes the avatar was evident in my demeanor but only while trying to remove the drain plug
again a big thanks to everyone

FWIW That drain plug is the same part that many earlier Honda's used in the cylinder head to access valve adjustments.

Perhaps there is a motorcycle salvage place near you where you could locate that item. Sure would save you a long wait ordering it from Honda.

Hey, if you are fortunate enough to locate a used one, why not pick up a spare --just in case.

Good luck

Tim

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

FWIW That drain plug is the same part that many earlier Honda's used in the cylinder head to access valve adjustments.

Perhaps there is a motorcycle salvage place near you where you could locate that item. Sure would save you a long wait ordering it from Honda.

Hey, if you are fortunate enough to locate a used one, why not pick up a spare --just in case.

Good luck

Tim

ordered new drain plug,washer and plug strainer this morn paid for them £20 and was told they would be in dealers tomorrow morn
now if they are in tomorrow morn i would say thats a great service from honda
heres hoping

Hey chalky,

Did your scooter have the spring in the drain hole. It holds the oil stainer screen up in the engine.

DennisB wrote:

Hey chalky,

Did your scooter have the spring in the drain hole. It holds the oil stainer screen up in the engine.

nope no strainer present, stuck my finger in as far as poss just to make sure but nothing there

Hi chalky,

The strainer and the spring are two different parts and both need to be installed.

If you want a new drain plug, Hein Gericke still might stock their magnetic drain plugs and they're made of an harder alloy. As they're now holding Closing Down Sales in their UK branches, you could pick up one or two cheaply.

Meldrew wrote:

If you want a new drain plug, Hein Gericke still might stock their magnetic drain plugs and they're made of an harder alloy. As they're now holding Closing Down Sales in their UK branches, you could pick up one or two cheaply.

Just been in to their Plymouth shop. Sad, (for them ). I came out with an arm full of clobber !!! Lots of bike bits left though - it seems to be clothing that is going out through the doors! 20% off everything!

Meldrew wrote:

If you want a new drain plug, Hein Gericke still might stock their magnetic drain plugs and they're made of an harder alloy. As they're now holding Closing Down Sales in their UK branches, you could pick up one or two cheaply.

had a look at their web site earlier, sad to see another bike related source goin into administration
dont seem to see the same amount of bikes on the road anymore where i live
seems like the whole bike scene and industry is in decline nowadays

DennisB wrote:

Hi chalky,

The strainer and the spring are two different parts and both need to be installed.

picked up all the new parts today,fit thurs or fri so its on the road for the weekend

I really appreciate all the support here for such an amazing piece of engineering :

Same me. Bought a red 2003 Sw last nov 2012; cannot find anything to complain about really...until I tried to change oil - oil cap is stuck TIGHT!!
Oh crap....
Last oil change was 6.7.2011 at 16500 miles ... LOL ...only 1900 miles added since really. Very low miles.

I havn't quite 'rounded' or really damaged this alu. cap...yet

AND, I really don't want to have to drill a hole, if I don't have to. I just ordered a new CAp, plus O ring, spring and cap-filter ... syn oil ready. I'm in no rush to change oil YET.

I will try the heat/ICE trick, hammer it , and mole-wrench it off.

My question is AFTER: will I need to re-thread it or just carefully test thread-on the NEW oil cap (thowing away the will-be-damaged cap) ??

Thanks folks

My drain plug stick's all the time I think it's the contact of the plug to the casting aluminum on aluminum I hold my 6 sided socket with one hand firmly and tap the ratchet with the other hand to brake it free .

HAven't done it yet on the WIng but on a previous bike I used one of these to remove the damaged part. (Only after acquiring a replacement item first of course).

http://www.tooled-up.com/microcat/stilson-wrenches/1441/


It is aggressive but does work. The jaws bite into the cap and ensure the item unscrews.

Stilsons, Mole Grips and 10" Adjustable Spanner should be included in the Honda Tool Kit. If they don't work then use a 'Manchester Screwdriver'!

Cheers,

A large Stilson pipe wrench is a good thing to try though I'd use a large vice grip first. I clean the plug and put a light wipe of aluminum anti-seize on the threads before replacing the plug which makes it come out a lot easier. I don't know why so many people reef down on the drain plugs when they install them. There's no rotating parts involved, just simple vibration and that rarely every loosens the plug. It really only needs to be snug not ape swinging tight. I'll second Waspie on the six point box end wrenches. I only use my 12 pointers for work where there's light torqued bolts and nuts and in close quarters. Never on aluminum and alloy if it can be avoided.

exavid wrote:

A large Stilson pipe wrench is a good thing to try though I'd use a large vice grip first. I clean the plug and put a light wipe of aluminum anti-seize on the threads before replacing the plug which makes it come out a lot easier. I don't know why so many people reef down on the drain plugs when they install them. There's no rotating parts involved, just simple vibration and that rarely every loosens the plug. It really only needs to be snug not ape swinging tight. I'll second Waspie on the six point box end wrenches. I only use my 12 pointers for work where there's light torqued bolts and nuts and in close quarters. Never on aluminum and alloy if it can be avoided.

Tinman not Me!!!!!!

Mea culpa!

If anyone bothers to read the oil change instructions on here it is made very clear to use ONLY a 6-point socket. This is stated over and over again. Do NOT use an adjustable wrench or a 12-point socket...

I did not own a 6-point but after reading the info on here I got one BEFORE my first oil change and have had NO problems with boogering up the drain plug.

Yes it would be nice if Honda would use a steel plug but they did not so we must deal with it.

Mines due for an oil change. I think I will replace the crappy plug with a proper steel plug with teflon tape or preferably ss plug.
Living it up and spending big.

Be very careful using a steel plug. The main reason a lot of manufacturers use alloy plugs is the fact that steel threads into aluminum can gall and bind up. If worse comes to worst it's a lot easier to drill out an alloy plug.

I second the motion not to use a different type of drain plug. The drain plug seals on the 'o' ring and is not a tampered fit. As previously stated, Honda used a valve adjusting access cover from a different engine to use for the drain plug on the S/W.

tarmacburner2 wrote:

Stilsons, Mole Grips and 10" Adjustable Spanner should be included in the Honda Tool Kit. If they don't work then use a 'Manchester Screwdriver'!

Cheers,

I'm surprised you haven't been asked to explain that particular tool to our colonial cousins yet!!

Winger61 wrote:

tarmacburner2 wrote:

Stilsons, Mole Grips and 10" Adjustable Spanner should be included in the Honda Tool Kit. If they don't work then use a 'Manchester Screwdriver'!

Cheers,

I'm surprised you haven't been asked to explain that particular tool to our colonial cousins yet!!

I've been waiting for someone to ask what it is! I'm assuming people have been googling the expression.

Cheers,

I've heard of it referred as a 'Cotswolds Screwdriver" on Top Gear, due to it being the only tool Clarkson knows how to use.

OK i will bite,what is that thing a ma jij

hammer

I'd be afraid to let Clarkson work on anything ,no matter what the tool was

Agreed, if you want it done right, Captain Slow is the one to do it.

Hammering the crap out of it is no way to treat the best scooter I ever own.Teflon pipe dope works good to seal and re lease the plug.

Other than a bit of aluminum anti-seize which is optional one doesn't need any sealant on the plug since that's the whole purpose of the sealing washer. Be sure to use a short wrench or choke up on the handle to prevent excessive tightening that's the usual cause of the mangled drain plug in the first place. These things done fall out on their own accord.

We too watch Clarkson and his cohorts delving into the best ways to destroy wontonly, I SAY WONTONLY, perfectly good British cars.

"Perfectly good British cars"

OOPS that's an Oxymoron.
Clarkson would use one of those to cut a car apart.

Perfectly good British Cars -

Dinky, Corgi, Matchbox... the list is endless!

Cheers,

Naw! All made in Macua and China............. however, they can be melted down and machined into Jim Dandy sump plugs.

AND what's wrong with a hammer?

NO tool box is complete without a good range of adjusting tools. Small medium and large hammers are a must for any half decent fettler!!!!!!

Waspie wrote:

AND what's wrong with a hammer?

NO tool box is complete without a good range of adjusting tools. Small medium and large hammers are a must for any half decent fettler!!!!!!

Could add the rubber hammer to the list.
During peak season for the farm contractors, its either weld it on or cut off. None of this spannering, thats for the off season...

RArch wrote:

Waspie wrote:

AND what's wrong with a hammer?

NO tool box is complete without a good range of adjusting tools. Small medium and large hammers are a must for any half decent fettler!!!!!!

Could add the rubber hammer to the list.
During peak season for the farm contractors, its either weld it on or cut off. None of this spannering, thats for the off season...

Now your just getting technical.

Be careful with those rubber hammers, some people have destroyed anvils with them.