Fuel pressure regulator

Hi everyone. Freddyblue from San Francisco.
Please, my scooter is not running and I think it's the fuel pressure regulator.
Someone prior was kind enough with instructions on how to check if the regulator is bad and also instructions on how to perform the replacement.
Just informed that shelter in place is going on until the end of May.
Going crazy and need a task.
Would appreciate a list of tools needed and any visuals if available.
Thanks so much to everyone.
Stay safe

Really just start taking the plastics off, keep the screws together with the panels they go to. The whole fuel filter, fuel pump just bolts to the top of the gas tank. Very easy to do. Check the inline fuel filter and filter screen before spending a lot of money. Easy to change. The fuel injected system is pressurized as it comes off the fuel unit. take off the fuel line going to the injector rail and turn the key. Youll know if there is a good fuel flow. LOL wear safety glasses!

Thank you very much.

Murf wrote:

Really just start taking the plastics off, keep the screws together with the panels they  go to.  The whole fuel filter, fuel pump just bolts to the top of the gas tank.  Very easy to do.  Check the inline fuel filter and filter screen before spending a lot of money.  Easy to change.  The fuel injected system is pressurized as it comes off the fuel unit.  take off the fuel line going to the injector rail and turn the key.  Youll know if there is a good fuel flow.  LOL wear safety glasses!

Au contraire Murf. While the fuel pump and fuel filter do bolt to the tank top, accessing them is not the least bit “easy to do”. They can only be removed from the tank after the tank is taken out of the frame. The tank drops out of the bottom of the frame but to make that happen the sub frame and most of the body work must be removed.

The fuel flow test is on p 5-81 of the FSM and the low pressure fuel return hose (from the FPR back to the tank) is what is removed. At 40-some psi it’s pretty dangerous to remove that high pressure tank-to-fuel rail hose as you seem to suggest. You’d quite probably have sprayed a good deal of fuel all over the place before you had the chance to shut things down if you attempted a fuel flow test via that high pressure line. Damn dangerous.

We have our Freddyblue, we don’t need a CrispyFred.

And, yes, the FPR attaches to the left side end of the fuel rail and is easy to remove from that location.

Read the book.

You're preaching to an idiot. I thought there was a relatively simple test for the FPR working or not.
My scooter is an 03 no ABS model.
I don't have a manual.
Does anyone have step by step instructions or even pictures of the manual steps ?
Were you saying that the easy removal of the FPR comes after the brutal dismembering.
Truly appreciate anyone who has chimes in.
Thanks and stay safe

Without tools or instruments, there is a limit to what you can examine. The regulator is connected to the intake vacuum, and serves to reduce the fuel pressure when the intake vacuum is greater, to maintain a constant relative fuel spray pressure. One failure mode for the regulator is if the internal diaphragm ruptures, and in that case raw fuel can make its way down the vacuum hose to the intake and really mess up the fuelling. The simplest check would be to run the bike with the vacuum hose pulled off the regulator and capped; it will be obvious if any fuel leaks out of the regulator (none should).

Notwithstanding your enthusiasm Freddy, without a FSM or, like Terry says, tools, you are limited.

So going back to square one, what symptoms were you experiencing which lead to this faulty FPR diagnosis? And who made that call?

When going to start it, if I even turned the throttle the tiniest bit, it would flood and the smell of gas was pervasive. Even when running the smell of gas was present. Would stall at lights.
Thanks again

Well that does sound consistent with the FPR not reducing fuel pressure when the vacuum is high. Have you checked the vacuum hoses to the FPR for leaks? It's a 3.5mm ID vacuum hose, should be simple to swap out and see if there is an improvement. The FPR itself is not too expensive, Partzilla shows it at $56.

Change your oil too all that fuel ends up in the engine. Get a new O-ring also seals regulator to fuel pipe. Replacing hose is a good idea it's old and fuel soaked by now. From past experience working on Honda cars regulator only changes pressure about 10 PSI.

Be sure to check for leaks after repair.

I have access to any tools needed. I don't have the money for a manual right now. Wondering if anyone could take some pics of the manual pages pertaining to replacing the FPR and send them my way.
Thank you all for the "harder than I had hoped" info.
Stay safe

https://manuals.wotmeworry.org.uk/Honda/Honda%202002-2013%20%20Silverwing%20600%20Service%20Manual.pdf

REMOVE THE SEAT UNDERCOVER Best to raise the seat and disconnect the seat strut. Then raise the seat fully and secure it to something up front. Then use a small screwdriver to free the tabs on the fuse boxes. One box pulls up then can drop down in its hole, the other can be navigated thru the slot in the side of the undercover. Once that’s done you can remove the two “side body cover front side set screws (page 2-7)” and the “seat under cover special screws” (the larger ones). See p 2-5 of the manual Lenny linked you to. Then you can flex the undercover and negotiate it out of the way. Do take note of how the undercover fits to the body before removing it. It can get confusing when reinstalling it.

DISCONNECT THE HOSES That will expose the throttle body and fuel rail. Move the breather hose out of the way to better expose the FPR at the left end of the fuel rail. Since you are just going to replace the FPR there is no sense in doing a fuel flow inspection (p 5-81). So just disconnect the vacuum hose and the fuel return line from the FPR. Yes, those innocuous looking hose clamps can be a genuine PITA.

No need to remove the manifold as is stated in the FSM.

REMOVE & REPLACE THE FPR Once the hoses are removed you can use a medium size crescent wrench to remove the FPR from the fuel rail. See pages 5-92 and 5-102.

“Installation is reverse”. Just don’t lose track of that one fuse box and have to remove the undercover a 2nd time to retrieve it. DAMHIK

Thanks. Really appreciate it

I believe that the under cover slides backward to free the middle tab.

Team, I really hate having to drop the tank it is a pain in the @#$.

A special shout out to Lenny. Thank you so much for the info.

Cosmic. You also. Thanks for the play by play.
Now for the implementation