Guys,



Rotella T6 5W-40 now has JASO MA certification, it is available at Wally world for $6 a quart. When my SWing reaches 3000 miles, in she goes. Let the flames begin, SWing

bigbird,


On other forums, mentioning your favorite oil can ignite a war, but I am finding the SWing group to be very friendly, civilized, refined. Thanks, SWing2010

Perhaps it's because most of us venture opinions rather than give advice.

I know what you mean about starting a war on other sites. I'm not anal at all really about oil but I know I will never use Purple Royal. I used it once and I had to keep topping off my SWing since it seemed to use it alot. I basically just use Synthetic oil now and it seems to work good.

I was a diesel fitter for a while. My wife was in hospital and needed some clothes so when I went looking through the racks I would hold up various items and note "diesel fit her "

MA rating nice to have....but $6.00 a Qt? Honda oil is usually cheaper.


I use WalMart house brand 10-40 as the 10-30 is energy conserving and Honda says no to that.

My scooters from Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha have survived over 200,000 miles on it.

SilverWing seems to like it---I change every 60 days or 2000 miles. WalMart Filter every other oil change.

If I were not cheap, would use Honda Oil----like to help keep dealers in business, but do not want to pay thru nose.

My Suzuki, GS500E went 62,000 quick miles on WalMart brand also. No engine trouble.

John Grinsel Prove that my choice works=the miles run with no engine trouble. with the 250's a lot of time was wide open.

I tend to keep vehicles a VERY LONG TIME.
Ex. '94 Bronco, 359k miles (it is still running I see it all the time) , 84 Goldwing 158k miles, 82 honda 900F 97k miles (cams High comp pistons, etc at 10k miles) wrecked

Since i keep them for very long times/miles, i research for the best I can afford.
Synthetics is the ticket.
I sent one batch to Blackthorn labs (?) for analysis after 8k miles in the goldwing around 60k miles. It still had better sheer properties than Dino oil.

i run longer intervals on oils than 2k miles. Most of my roadtrips are 3-10k miles.

Compression checks on my high mileage engines seems to bear out that they are not loosing compression, thus very little wear.

That said, i have used several synthetic oils, in all of my vehicles.

Presently I am using Mobil 1 "High mileage" 10w40 in my bikes. I usually run 6-8k between changes but sometimes longer. I also use premium filters to catch the gunky particles.

I have used rotella T6 in the past, but did not feel it was as good as Mobil 1 High mileage. (this was in my M/C)

If you figure the cost of changing oil/filters. It is cheaper to run synths at longer intervals and still have better protection at the end than when you start with using dino oil.
I research what is added to them and how they feel to me while using.

That's my take on it.

MaxB (who has moved on from dino oils a LOOOONG time ago)
P.S. Yippee! my back and knees are not killing me this am. just letting me know they are hurting.

John & MaxB - great points and a great perspective from both of you.

Even though you guys present different preferences I can respect both. From my time on forums I've concluded that - Oil posts generally suck.

The best oil is: The one you like as long as you change it at the OEM recommended interval or less.

It must have some anti foaming agents as per their own tech site:

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=223&page=6

How much i don't know.
Like I said I used it once and was not impressed.
MaxB

I wonder, for those of us who spend a lot of our riding in the upper band of the tachometer, would it be better for our scooters to have something heavier, like a 20w50 oil?

Oils are so good now that I suspect that the only thing the heavier oil would do is further reduce your gas mileage. I did a fast look on the web, and it appears that most car and motorcycle racing oil (High RPM) is either 10W-30 or 10W-40. The only racing oil I saw in 20W-50 was for the Harley V-Twins (lower RPM & air cooled).

Does that mean that I get worse gas mileage if I use 10W40 vs. 10W30?

Hammy,

It is my understanding that the thicker the oil, the more internal friction (read heat and drag) it causes, thereby robbing power from the rear wheel. To make up for this lost power, you add fuel. The answer to your question is Yes, 10W-40 would be worse than 10W-30, although the difference would not be great. Automobiles being pushed for ever better fuel economy are going to 0W-20 oils now (Ford, Honda, and probably others) for that reason. Every little bit helps, as they say.

I've been running Rotella for the last 9,000 miles (two changes), with zero issues. It comes out relatively clean looking when changed, and I've seen no foaming when checking the oil level.

Boy I definitely learn a whole lot here! Never knew all this stuff about oil... didn't even realize it could affect your mileage. I'm getting about 40mpg on high speed runs right now with stock everything, 26g sliders and Rotella T6. I wonder what my mileage would be with 28g sliders (28g being stock weight) and 10W30 Mobil One synthetic - guess I'll find out in about 4000 miles!

Um... where do you buy your Amsoil Euro?