Corrosion abatement product.

Something I came upon it's called ACF-50 Anti Corrosion Formula. As far as I can tell it's not readily available in an auto store but can be ordered online. It's a non greasy hydrophobic film on a metal surface neutralizing existing corrosion and road salt removing and repelling moisture, developed for the airline industry. Sounds like a winner, anyone here using it?

This product came highly recommended by several of the UK folks last year. Evidentally the winter road treatments in Britian are very corrosive to alloy material. Not limited to swingarms but there have been a few reports of oil filters rusting thru as well as wheel rims developing serious cases of acne, and engine block corrosion. 

ACF-50 seems to be the go-to product to address this problem. They also make a bearing grease which reduces wheel bearing failure due to, um, corrosion.

While I got ACF-50 from eBay, you might check with a marine supply store for both products. I picked up a tube of ACF's anti corrosion grease from the West Marine store in Philly.

Tim

Tis good stuff!

Where do you apply the spray? Fork tubes, wheels,? They do not salt the roads here, but I live near the Pacific Ocean and wondering if I should use the ACF-50?

ACF50 is VERY greasy - more like oily - but used under plastics, who cares?

On my Pan European ST1100, I used Dinitrol 3125 HS under the plastics. similar to Waxoyl, but waaay better.

I wonder why they advertise it as non-greasy? or is it just greasy feeling because it's slick feeling? Never used it so I don't know.

Easyrider wrote:

Where do you apply the spray? Fork tubes, wheels,? They do not salt the roads here, but I live near the Pacific Ocean and wondering if I should use the ACF-50?

One of our founding members lives in Miami. IIRC his S'Wing corroded to the point of being unusable, or beyond economic repair because it sat unused for several months exposed to the salty air in his apartment parking area. So I'd say, Yeah, go for the ACF-50.

Tim

I used ACF50 for many years on aircraft used in the Caribbean. The salt air of SE Florida and the Bahamas was deadly to airplanes. ACF50 stopped the corrosion. It worked well.

It works it's way into joints, seams and fasteners to interrupt the electrical aspect of galvanic corrosion. Especially those between steel and aluminum or magnesium, and even on surfaces.

I would clean everyplace you can get to, touch-up any frame paint that is flaked or chaffed with a conversion type primer, then black enamel. Use the aerosol ACF50 to "fog" the underbelly area behind the bottom panel.

AND, very important!!......Let it drip for 24 hours, and wipe the dribbles and whatnot to keep it off the tires!!!
It is slippery on rubber.

Having ridden thru 61 winters, in Europe/USA---both places use strong chemicals to de-ice and then Japan and Korea where few chemicals are used------I find nothing beats keeping your bike washed and then fogging with oil or WD40 or even oil can on joints.

Germany I tried wax, often used on interior body panels-----painted all over bike, works but hell to get off in spring.

Again nothing beats often washing bike.

I ride most days ,all year, as someone said our roads in the UK get a lot of anti-ice treatment. Just lately we have been getting ice overnight ,thawing around 10am. On Sunday coming back around 3pm I was behind a gritting lorry, they have a spinning wheel on the back that throws out a mixture of salt and sand, I know from experience to stay well back from these lorries. Always on reaching home clean off with cold water. I never found anything to keep the muck off, just, wax polish when cleaning.

Ive been using ACF50 for quit a time now on my Honda Blackbird and Fireblade. I have polished a lot of the alloy on them and I coat all polished bits in late autumn with ACF50. I leave it over night and then wipe off the excess. All of the polished bits stay shiny and `i ride all through the winter, however I do hose everything down when I get back home.

I'm looking for some advice on corrosion inhibiters. Here are pictures of the front frame members on my SW.

This is the LH side.



This is the RH side.



The steel is still intact and this is surface rust so I want to give it some 'simple' treatment. If I rub down the excess rust, would this ACF50 act as a suitable coating to keep out any further damage?

AFC50 is the only product I recall being mentioned to address the nasty consequences of UK highway maintenance. I guess it might be time for a serious wire brush massage followed by an AFC50 lathering. I’d also check that frame joint behind the pillion foot peg mount. IIRC that location was known to develop a stress crack on early model FJS600’s. So frame corrosion wouldn’t be too improbable.

Wire brush and AFC50 it is then. I'll take a look at the rear foot peg mount areas while I'm at it.

You should also consider a rust converter/reformer for dificult to clean treat areas on "Steel Parts", followed by your favorite paint and then a Corrosion Preventive Compound(CPC), rust converters chemically treat, seal and prime surface, must be painted or coated.

 I can tell you with certainty with aprox 40yrs in aviation, that removing or chemically treating "RUST" or "Corrosion" is the best way, most spray on CPC products like  ACF50, CRC, LPS3, etc are effective, but temporary, they are easily rubbed or washed off, must be re-applied periodically, in aviation they are basiclly the last product applied to metals after paint, etc. and are usually re-applied at major maintenance visits.


 BTW none of these CPC are cheap, ACF50 13oz spray $20+USD, etc.

POR 15.  3 step process clean, degrease and brush on. $77 US.  

Brush off the loose stuff then a good coat of Hammerite to sort out the rust.
ACF 50 goes on afterwards to perform a protective layer of oil and road grime.

Hammerite was one of the products we used way back in the Seventies after the first average British winter ravaged the chrome, alloy, and thin paint of your new Universal Japanese Motorcycle. Waxoyl, and  paint on 'peel off plastic coatings' bought from advertisers in Motorcycle News were others.

How effective they were depended on how thoroughly you prepared the metal before you treated it


Personally I don't think anything beats getting into a regular winter cleaning routine on days you know or can see road salt has been spread, you hose or wash down the scooter with cold water when you get home. Spending a few quid on a hot air dryer to blast away water from nooks and crannies and dry the scooter before putting it away is useful too.

I've mixed views about relying on aerosol corrosion protesters alone. I've read plenty of forum posts about ACF-50 as if it's some anti-corrosion talisman and a few sprays here and there and you’re all set to ride through the winter months. As if that's all the only thing you have to do to.

I can't remember how long I've been using it but my choice is S100 Corrosion Protector, or Korrosions-Schutze as it says on the cans I brought back from Germany. Back then I used to read German motorcycle magazines and S100 corrosion protector was always highly rated in product reviews.

I've sprayed it vulnerable salt trap areas and large metal parts like the main stand and even after regular cleaning sessions in winter, there's no rust and treated metal remains coated.

The bonus of regular preventive winter cleaning and corrosion protection is a rust and corrosion free scooter when it's trade in time. I rode my Silver Wing  through seven winters and it remained remarkably rust and corrosion free.

Then of course to prevent winter road crap damaging your maxi scooter, a few hours spent fashioning a home made front mud flap from scrap rubber or plastic and attaching it with what ever glues, adhesive pads or double sided tape you have is time well spent.

I'm really dealing with damage limitation here. My days of chemical treatments and nice shiny smooth paintwork are over. Those heady days of 'Rust-Eater', 'Anti-rust Primers' and shiny smooth 'Hammerite' paints just made my arms and fingers ache like hell!

There are some bolts and screws tucked away under that cover so I'm going to make sure they're not seized or damaged and then oil 'em up before they go back. One in particular is the bolt which holds the front brake pipes against the front of the fork yoke/stem assembly. It's in the line of fire for water, grime and salt and if it sheared off then fixing it would be a real PITA. Mine came out, but the head and shoulder were corroded so I had to be extra careful.

BTW, do these corrosion abatement sprays (like ACF50) dissolve grease and/or oil?

Yes agree Meldrew,

Good clean after riding plus a nice film of WD40 goes a long way.

Loosemarbles wrote:

I'm really dealing with damage limitation here.

I'm curious why you're now having to deal with damage limitation due to rust and corrosion on your Silver Wing. Any experienced rider is well aware of the damage road salt can do if you neglect to take preventive measures riding a motorcycle or maxi scooter during the winter months.

It's not a criticism, it's a lot easier for those who can garage their bike or scooter, have easy access to an outside tap, a hose, a load of cleaning products, and the time to do it.

Others may have do make do with working during daylight hours and carrying buckets of water from the house for a quick brush and sponge job to a bike/scooter that lives outside under a cover.

Gentlemen / Gentlewomen all this talk about all the products and applications just took me back some 62+ years to one place, thing, experience. My new 60 VW bug. For the life of me I could not figure out what chassis lube was, thinking the zerk fittings I asked about it. The dealership had no clue but a local mechanic did. He looked at me and laughed, he said mix motor oil 50/50 with kerosene and brush it on everything that's not painted. We have come a long way since.

What about spraying 'Waxoil' on the underneath of your car?...1970's -1980's, only to find out later that removing anything during maintenance was a messy business. The rust still seemed to be there anyhow!

I was once told that the pressure of water passing underneath the car, and in the wheel arches, while driving in the wet, took the Waxoil off.

oldwingguy - Check your PM's ... I just sent you a message.