Question RE: rear wheel slack?

Maybe this is normal but thought I'd ask the question. When I rotate the rear wheel to clean it there is a slack spot in the wheel. There's no looseness side to side as in a bearing issue. Is this slack spot normal? It's like a small 1/4" spot.

Hi Dan, Do you mean that the tire rotates clock and counter clock wise about 1/4"? I've never checked mine but I would think that that is pretty much normal. It would seem like that would be normal slack between the tire, clutch and drive mechanism.

Hi DanB. The short of it is yes. There are three separate gear trains in the finial drive. A input shaft, counter shaft and a output shaft.A little play in each one adds up.There is no need to worry. Howard

Thanks guys. Another question. Changing out my low beam headlight bulb with H7 Sylvania and still does not work. Perhaps a bad bulb but....is there a separate fuse for the low beam?

I take it the reason for wanting to change the low beam is because it was not working. Chances are both bulbs are good. One fuse takes care of the low and high beam. I would suggest starting at the connection at the bulb and working back to the lite switch checking for current. It may even be the switch itself. Howard

High beam works and old low beam bulb is black and blown. New bulb does not work though. Getting really good though at changing it as it's been in/out several times.

You are using the bulb adapter from the old bulb aren't you?

Using a test lite,are you getting any current at the connector that attaches to the bulb? Howard

Simplest test method is to test the bulb using the resistance setting on a "multimeter", even a new bulb can be faulty

The Bern wrote:

Simplest test method is to test the bulb using the resistance setting on a "multimeter", even a new bulb can be faulty

I had problems with cheap bulbs in scooter and car and will only buy good name brand ones now. A few dollars extra can save hours of trouble shooting.

gremlin wrote:

The Bern wrote:

Simplest test method is to test the bulb using the resistance setting on a "multimeter", even a new bulb can be faulty

I had problems with cheap bulbs in scooter and car and will only buy good name brand ones now.  A few dollars extra can save hours of trouble shooting.

Sorry, but a "well known" brand name does not automativcally mean that a product doesn't have a fault

The Bern wrote:

gremlin wrote:

The Bern wrote:

Simplest test method is to test the bulb using the resistance setting on a "multimeter", even a new bulb can be faulty

I had problems with cheap bulbs in scooter and car and will only buy good name brand ones now.  A few dollars extra can save hours of trouble shooting.

Sorry, but a "well known" brand name does not automativcally mean that a product doesn't have a fault

No doubt about it even a quality globe can be faulty, but the chances of that is probably 20 times smaller and for the few dollars extra you might save yourself hours of troubleshooting, or a sizeable workshop bill . That is also why a bought a Honda, and not a Chinese scooter. Companies like Osram , Philips and Hella have been making globes for over 100 years and their standards of quality control are nothing like those you might see in Asian factories ( with exceptions like Apple etc ). The manufacturing philosophies are worlds apart. Premium producers only accept a failure rate of one in 2000 or better. The cheap manufacturers accept a failure rate of one in twenty, because it is so much cheaper to produce and to supply a replacement to the few customers who bother to claim one.

A 1/4" - 3/8" backlash in the rear wheel is about what the four Silverwings I've worked on seem to have. Just as the guys already mentioned.

Hi DanB,
I checked my rear wheel today just out of curiosity and found that the quarter inch play seems to fit in with what the others are saying here.