time for a clutch ?

Last couple of days when it give it full throttle at about 5000rpm it takes off until 6000rpm then you can feel the engine race to about 6250 with no increase in speed which carries on climbing, each time it happens I back off the throttle, as dont want to destroy her just yet, and she gradually resumes speed increases. Have also noted a smell of a clutch burning.

Drive belt is 6k miles old, age of bike is 2008 and total mileage is 42500.

Have changed a belt before, not changed a clutch on belt drive. Reluctant to get into a clutch, has anyone done one, if so what to watch out for ? Is 42k about right for a belt, I know the engine is good for 50k plus, what about the transmission ?

Clutch shoes are easy to replace.

Lock up the rear wheel (parking brake &/or zip tie left brake lever). 22 mm socket removes the Driven Pulley assembly. Flip it over and the clutch shoes are there. Remove the springs with a spring tool. Remove the retaining clips & plate and pop off the shoes. Be sure to lube the driven pulley needle bearing before reassembly.

Be sure too to inspect the clutch bell too. If scored you'll need to replace. That's going to be  the difficult job.

Use the Search function to find a recent post about removing the clutch bell without using Honda's special tool.

Tim

As Cosmic Jumper stated.  If you can do belt the clutch shoes  are not much more work.  
If clutch drum is damaged that's a bit more that needs some real tools to pull drum.

Shoe kit about $65 US   SW doesn't have a transmission but has a rear differential should last  much longer than engine no reports of failure that I've read about .[url=https://servimg.com/view/20055422/15][/url

Driven pulley removed one nut and it's off. clutch shoes....

Thank you! I changed my rollers and belt but couldn’t figure out how to secure the clutch.. now I know apply the brake and off it comes... my baby’s getting new shoes! .. tear it down pop off the vairator , remove the belt and pop off the clutch and replace , lube and assemble... thank you!

The above photo is the bearing is not pressed in yet old one in lower left it will be below the hub face a little. There is another bearing at the other end but it's dam near impossible to grease or remove. Shine a flashlight in there you'll see it.

Sand the drum 320-400 grit fine paper. This noise seem to come and go worse when shoes get hot.

phils a winger wrote:

Last couple of days when it give it full throttle at about 5000rpm it takes off until 6000rpm then you can feel the engine race to about 6250 with no increase in speed which carries on climbing, each time it happens I back off the throttle, as dont want to destroy her just yet, and she gradually resumes speed increases. Have also noted a smell of a clutch burning.

Earlier in the year I had the same thing riding up Hardnott Pass (very steep, very twisty, with her on the back). In those circumstances the clutch continues to slip as centrifugal force * in the clutch is insufficient to overcome the driving force. The engine behaves as you describe and the clutch stinks but it won't do any real harm, just wear the clutch shoes a little faster. It's no different than braking down a long, steep hill - the clutch is basically just a drum brake in reverse.

* And before anyone who knows science & engineering starts I do know that centrifugal force doesn't really exist. :-)

steve_h80 wrote:

phils a winger wrote:

Last couple of days when it give it full throttle at about 5000rpm it takes off until 6000rpm then you can feel the engine race to about 6250 with no increase in speed which carries on climbing, each time it happens I back off the throttle, as dont want to destroy her just yet, and she gradually resumes speed increases. Have also noted a smell of a clutch burning.

Earlier in the year I had the same thing riding up Hardnott Pass (very steep, very twisty, with her on the back). In those circumstances the clutch continues to slip as centrifugal force * in the clutch is insufficient to overcome the driving force. The engine behaves as you describe and the clutch stinks but it won't do any real harm, just wear the clutch shoes a little faster. It's no different than braking down a long, steep hill - the clutch is basically just a drum brake in reverse.

* And before anyone who knows science & engineering starts I do know that centrifugal force doesn't really exist. :-)

My 2¢:

The solution to that clutch slipping is to switch to a Dr Pulley HiT clutch. It is adjustable for normal clutch engagement and, most significantly, locks the shoes to the clutch bell.

Is it really something to be concerned about for normal day to day riding, with or without a passenger.

Hardknott Pass in Cumbria has a gradient of 1 in 3 or 33% and is one of the two steepest roads in England. It's the type of road deliberately chosen by motorcycle and maxi scooter riders solely for the bragging rights.

Beautiful views and a narrow road to boot, darn narrow

Its the views Meldrew, it is a spectacular place.
It is steep but as you're riding slowly its not difficult.

I'm thinking to myself in all the times I rode over Hardknott and Wrynose Passes in both directions when I lived in West Cumbria for nearly 40 years, I rarely if ever stopped and admired the view. It was just somewhere I had a go at riding every few years and I very rarely got it 100% right.