Ignition switch glitch

I had a wierd experiance the other day with the ignition switch on my Swing, i wonder if anyone else has had the same problem. After coming back from a run I put the bike in the garage,all was okay. The following morning the key went in okay but would not turn, either to run ignition or lock steering it just refused to turn. After realising if i kept on the key might break off, i had a brew[ sorry, a cup of tea]. I eventually found if i drew the key nearly out the top part of the switch it would turn, going back and fourth a couple of times the key lined up and worked. It has been okay since but Iam puzzled as to what happened. Anyone any explanation?

I had a similar problem with my '04 Wing - needed to gently push the key towards the screen when turning. My local dealer lubed the barrel with something, and it seems to have eased the problem.
I think Waspie had to have a replacement barrel fitted to his Wing. Have a look under 'Ignition barrel - may have a problem'. (Page 3, Silver Wing topics)
Spike has also had a similar problem.

You are not alone!

I've had the same problem, not very fond of the ignition switch. I found if you gently push down just a little bit, it turns real easy. I am now hesitant to use the fork lock, because of the difficulty to unlock. I used dry graphite in the lock and that's when my problems started. Because I bought my wing used, I am not sure if someone oiled the lock and the graphite balled up or what. It seems to be working better, but I have to use a very gentle touch when turning the key.

I think dry graphit can be a problem if someone uses for example silicone Spray...

Did you tried to "flush" it? If it is really a problem like this i think i would try to flush the Graphite out with WD40 and if this helps i would use siliconespray for lubrication if needed

I used brake cleaner and blew it out with air, then reapplied the graphite. I am hoping that after a few weeks of working the key, it will loosen up.

If it don't work, try it with WD40. I think this is better than brake cleaner because the brake cleaner will dry very fast. I think they will also ball up the graphite...

The best will be to remove the locking cylinder from the housing and flush it then, but i don't know it is possible or not...

Similar problem with mine. Replaced under warranty.

Honda requested all old barrels and keys be returned to Honda for investigation.

Link;

https://www.silverwing600.com/t2243-ignition-barrel-may-have-a-problem?highlight=ignition+barrel

Believe it or not one side of the key works better than the other,that why I mark it so it would go in the same way in every time

x

Yes bigbird, i will fully agree
But if someone before used a spray or any other liquid lube and you use then powdered graphite you will have possibly this problem...
An if you have this condition it is in my oppion no good idea to use more graphite. I think in this case you have to flush all the old lubes out and i think wd40 is one of the best sprays for this. But after this flushing you cannot use powdered graphite...

I think it is safer to use a spray over powdered graphit (and flush the graphite out) than otherwise. If i have a new lock, i will use normally graphite but if i have a "used" lock and i don't know what was used before, i take the spray.
For lube i prefer silicone spray, for the flushing i prefer WD40 because of the viscosity and i had good experience with this

x

Yes, but you can mostly flush most of the graphite out...

Very intresting link, it seems that it was a good idea that i used the MOS2 spray for the lock of my mothers door
In this case it work very well! She bought the flat with a very stucky lock and after my MOS2-flushing it is smoother than a new for nearly 1 year now;)

Waspie, did Honda ever get back to you, to explain the problem?. I know if this happened in USA the would have to give a full explanation. It makes you a bit nervous never knowing if it's going to happen again doesn' it?

Did I mention I did spray WD 40 on the lock?