Recommendations on Maintenance

I recently bought a 2006 Silverwing with 16,000km (10,000 miles) and no service records. Aside from a few minor scratches, bike looks great.

One front fork was leaking and I used a piece of plastic with a hook cut out to slide down there and remove grime and the leak has stopped completely, but I notice small cracks in the dust seal, so I will replace the fork and dust seals when I have the time and tools (just came back from 10 years in Asia so no tools right now).

The previous owner said he drove the bike last year for 2,000km and didn't do any maintenance to it.
Bike looks like it has been kept indoors all its life.

What advice I am looking for is recommendations on what people with experience with this bike would do, general maintenance wise, if they had bought this bike?

In other words, aside from replacing the fork seals and the engine oil, what else would you do? Belt? replace all fluids including brake, final drive oil, flush out radiator? Or am I in overkill mode?
Thanks for any suggestions

Hi africa1228, and welcome to the forum from the UK.
Make friends with the search bar to access the wealth of knowledge stored here.
That said, I think your only doing what every other member has done when becoming a Swing owner.
Also check discs and pads for min wear and the calipers are free to float, push the rear caliper into wheel and pump out, same for the front Any binding in or out will require a overhaul(min new seals).
Don't forget a new air and oil filter.
OH, and remove the under seat light bulb(if not already done)the switch is prone to staying on when you close the seat(dead battery in the morning).

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

The engine oil is a no-brainer. Given the age and mileage, I would think a belt change would be prudent, and I would bet the brake fluid and coolant have never been swapped out in the last 18 years. Old coolant can become acidic and start to eat your nice aluminium radiator.

I would open the brake reservoirs and syringe out as much old fluid as possible them mop out any remaining grunge before you refill with nice fresh fluid. As long as you don't press the brake levers you won't introduce any air into the lines.

For the callipers, it would be a good idea to make sure the pistons are moving freely and are clean. Pull them off the wheel, remove the pads and take a look. Pump the pistons out carefully (not too far) and then use an old shoelace dipped in brakefluid to carefully clean their sliding surfaces before you push them back.

As said above.
Do the final drive oil when you do the engine oil because it uses the same stuff.
It's also worth pulling the clutch when you are changing the belt. The clutch pads should be fine at that mileage, but you never know. The pads glaze and dust from the pads can get onto the pins which stops the pads moving out smoothly while can make the clutch feel grabby both as it engages and disengages. The 'Italian tune up' (rear brake on, give it some throttle) does deglaze the pads but also releases more dust.
Shocks, fork springs, fork oil, tyres, brake pad compound etc is all a matter of personal taste... but is a great way to start a bunfight here
Use the earth button here. The inmates of this site have accumulated a huge amount of silverwing knowledge, some good, some 'don't do that'. Tis possible the most knowledgeable forum on anything I've encountered.
And finally download great full service manual.

Each of the above jobs mentioned above are actually pretty easy/ straightforward (including a coolant change- all you need to do is open the drain bolt under the bike and remove the right fairing pocket that takes just a few seconds, then use a funnel and some vinyl tubing to get the coolant in the filler neck). Oil change, brake fluid flush (I recommend SpeedBleeders be installed before doing this unless you plan to vacuum bleed- I screwed up and introduced air into mine then had to vac bleed with a MityVac, but all is well now- lesson learned), rear drive fluid and belt change each take about 30-40 minutes each (and with the rear drive fluid, I would do it with the plastics off the rear drive so the oil doesn’t get all over). Access to an impact wrench (1/2” drive to loosen the bolts of the variator and the rear drive nut as well as wheel removal) will make your life VERY easy. Tools are everything. If you don’t have a service manual, get one (book form or online version) as you need torque specs. You can make your own variator tool or as I did, get the Honda version of the tool, which I believe was ~ $50. If you’re changing the belt, that’s when to consider new Dr. Pulley sliders in lieu of the OEM rollers (if worn, or if you just want different performance), and also check the clutch pads and re-grease the bearings of the rear driven gear at that time, as I was advised they may be dry and in need of grease (and mine did at only 7300 miles, but they were’t dry at that time- NLG2 grease, typically the thick red stuff that auto parts stores sell).

I learned quite a bit about the SWing in a relatively short period of time with a lot of help from this site.

One more thing…research how the body panels come off (MSG Motovlogs- I think that’s his channel on YouTube- has an excellent video about how to take the front cover off). A few of my panels were damaged from the prior owner(s) and I replaced them so as daunting as a job as it may seem, taking them off isn’t too bad and if you’re going to replace the front indicators with LEDs as I did, removing the front fairing (known as the front cover) is essential (you can replace the headlights without removing the front cover if you’re switching to LEDs).

Oil change: I used a 10W-40 Castrol Synthetic blend and used this for the rear drive as well, a HiFlo 204 filter (eBay sells them), and a GBoost belt (DBHOMCT is the model designation- some here will say Honda belt only (which I believe is part 23100-MCT-003 but the Gboost works for me- just don’t get a crappy eBay belt). Coolant I used Prestone’s pre-mix from the auto parts store, so nothing exotic, and will change it every 3-4 years or so.

After you consider these (and other than the oil change, none are an emergency), ride on and enjoy it- I’ve been on bikes since 1989, but the SWing is a completely different ride- very comfortable and decently quick.

Thank you JohnyC, Terry Smith, Steve and Erdoc48 for your considerate and excellent suggestions! You have been extremely helpful in my formulating a battleplan for this scooter!

I can see that this forum will be invaluable as a new Swing owner!