Rear wheel removal

I am removing the rear wheel to replace the tire and so looked at the Honda shop manual. I do not understand why it says to remove the Torx Bolts and Right Swing Arm. It did not seem necessary to do this to remove the Final Shaft Holder. I know I heard somewhere I was going to need Torx tools to do this job, but I don't understand why?

You definitely don't need to remove the Torx bolts.

With the bike on its wheel/side stand, break the rear axle nut loose. Put it on the centrestand and remove the axle nut fully, then the muffler, then the right shock bottom bolt, the brake calipers and the brake hose carriers. Then the plastic swingarm joint cover, and finally the two swingarm bolts. You should now be able to slip the swingarm straight off the axle, followed by the wheel.

You only need to remove the Torx bolts if you plan on removing the front swingarm section e.g. to access the right crankcase.

Hello Mr Speed. It is considered Forum courtesy to first post an introduction in the Introduction section. It appears that you’ve been a member of the forum since 2011 so you should know that.

Thank you for that information.

The arm which holds the rear wheel nut and bottom shock bolt is 'NOT' the swing arm.

I don't understand why it tells you to remove the torx bolts. Terminology confusion?

It could be that workshop manuals are written for professional mechanics doing a full strip down. For a partial strip, like a wheel removal, they will only do what is necessary.

Loosemarbles wrote:

The arm which holds the rear wheel nut and bottom shock bolt is 'NOT' the swing arm.

I don't understand why it tells you to remove the torx bolts. Terminology confusion?

Once you bolt it on it is part of swingarm. Manual says to remove it but a good mechanic will always find shortcuts. It pivots off of engine case and there is a bearing in there over stator cover. It's all bolted together so swingarm is really 3-4 parts if you count spacer block. Axle goes through both sides Swingarm in my book.

Thank you for removal help. Terry S. One of the rusted bolts on muffler broke off. Maybe I can get it tight with just one. You were a big help for someone without the shop manual.
Love yours. D

Dabutcher wrote:

Thank you for removal help. Terry S.  One of the rusted bolts on muffler broke off. Maybe I can get it tight with just one. You were a big help for someone without the shop manual.
Love yours. D

I had the same issue with my muffler clamp bracket; one bolt works just fine.

Dabutcher wrote:

... snipped ... One of the rusted bolts on muffler broke off. Maybe I can get it tight with just one.

Yes you can and one bolt will hold it ... until it breaks and then you're up Schitt's Creek without a proverbial paddle.

When one of my bolts broke, I replaced both original bolts with stainless steel bolts etc.  Now I don't worry about it happening again and I have a spare, reconditioned bolt if needed.

Good location to use anti-seize compound.

sonuvabug wrote:

Dabutcher wrote:

... snipped ... One of the rusted bolts on muffler broke off. Maybe I can get it tight with just one.

Yes you can and one bolt will hold it ... until it breaks and then you're up Schitt's Creek without a proverbial paddle.

When one of my bolts broke, I replaced both original bolts with stainless steel bolts etc.  Now I don't worry about it happening again and I have a spare, reconditioned bolt if needed.

KIM that most stainless steel hardware is actually weaker and softer(stretches)than similar steel bolt, torque values should be reduced, personally not a fan of SS hardware in general, they don't corrode by themselves, but when used on any dissimilar metal will react with it and corrode, especially if moisture is involved, stripped/stretched threads is common even if the proper anti-seize is used, that's why your aluminum engine bolts are coated steel not SS.

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Good location to use anti-seize compound.

Yes indeed, light coat permatex A-Z or high temp grease on axle, use a acid brush to coat splines.

IMO, one small design flaw/detail is the RH sleeve spacer between wheel and swingarm, no seal at wheel contact ?, Just a dab of grease per SM ?, probably ok, but, I clean wheel/spacer and apply a light coat of Honda bond on sleeve to wheel mating surface, now it's water tight !!