Low speed handling problem

I have read a bunch of wobble posts - and maybe my issues are covered within them - but not sure.

About 4000 miles ago I installed new tires - at the time the SWing handled great - no problem doing slow speed manuevers.  After sitting in the garage for 6 months - the SWing was back on the road.  I noticed then that there seemed to a bit more vibration - and shortly after that I had a big tip-over. Nothing much broken - just some paint scrapes - but it was a big tip-over as the bike was flat in it's side.  Bit-by-bit the low speed handling has been getting worse-and-worse. At this time when I come to a stop I have great difficulty keeping the bike from tipping over as there is a lot of wobble (if the road is rough or if gravel I can barely handle the swing).  Now I have noticed that one side (to the right of center) of the front tire has TWICE the wear rate of the other side - but the wear rate is even - no cupping - but historically the front tire wore evenly on both sides.  The back tire has a mild case of cupping - which prior rear tires never had.  My front fairing seems as if it has been knocked a bit off center.  One of my fork tubes has a fine deposit of oil on it - but the other is bone dry.  I will be doing the usual checks on the front wheel (e.g., axle, bearings, wheel alignment) but supect that something either got bent or pushed out of alignment.  Above 35mph to top end the bike rides great - very little vibration - down around 5mph I can barely control it and stopping without a near tip-over is a real chore.

I have a few questions:

1. SWing Alignment - Other than by visual observation, is there a way to measure for correct alignment of handlebar, forks,  and other front end components in concert with rear tire and frame in an effort pinpoint the problem? And what is the procedure/tolerances?

2. Does the 'dry' fork (chromed part) mean anything - such as a need for fork oil - or is it just that the seal on that side is doing an especially good job?

The SWing is now handling so poorly that I can no longe ride it. Any input is welcomed.  Thanks.

Hi Jerry.
What you describe is a bit overwhelming to understand from a posting. Tire wear irregularities, fork leg leak (maybe) and uncontrollable wabble at very low speed.
I like doing things myself on scoot's, but I'd consider involving a good bike mechanic. One that's experienced with alignment issues. I know there are good ones in SF. Scuderia West comes to mind. There are several real experts with lots of racing and road riding experience.
Could you trailer the scoot' to a shop?
Would you chance a ride to a shop?
Greg

start with basics--

Tires...are they the Honda recommend specific for Silverwing? In inflated to Honda recommended pressure? Balanced...tire round and no lateral run out?

Fork legs---one wet, seal defective. Change out both side seals, Honda recommended oil in the right amount.

Fork legs...one bent?

Steering head bearings, notched/binding from spill? Fork stem bent from blow.

Align=no such thing on SilverWing, rear wheel fixed, front by how you point the bars, sometimes bars and fork crown not right---determined by look down and noticing not right----put in order just like bicycle

Honda authorized shop with maxi scooter experience good place to start

Jerry may not be able to do anything about misalignment, but he can sure check it to eliminate frame/fork/swingarm problems.
Greg

I am in process of rebuilding both forks - one was no problem - but I can't get the 'fork capscrew' (the allen nut in the bottom of the fork) out on the other one - I got it loose with my impact wrench (with spring still in) but it won't spin out - it is just spinning inside the fork tube. Tomorrow I plan to compress the spring and then see if I can break it out. I am open to other suggestions if anyone has any. The first 'fork capscrew' spun totally out with no problem - but the second one only spins - it does not come out.

As the old saying says,keep it simple.I believe that if you had no problem with the front forks ie leaking oil I suggest you look at replacing the front tire first if it is worn bad on one side and go from there. I believe the bottom screw in the fork is not a drain and can be left in for general maintenance like changing oil or springs.The part that is in the fork that the screw goes into is now turning and that is why the screw will not back out. Good luck. Howard

Dimond wrote:

Tomorrow I plan to compress the spring and then see if I can break it out.

Yep that's the way to do it,replace the spring & spacer then fit the cap nut(which will now be "pre-loaded") undo socket headed screw & then remove refitted parts