Tire valve help

Hi, Doc here. I have changed the rear wheel valve on my fjs 600 2004 (genuine item) and I also bought two clips to hold the valve steady when you push against it to inflate the tyre. Can anyone please tell me how to keep the clip secure on the fitting before I go nuts.i have tried gorilla glue and other adhesives to no avail.
Would be grateful for any help please. Thanks,Doc.

Doc, I moved your post here. You had tacked it on an Introduction post. Should get more views and help here.

Many thanks for your help, let's hope someone has the answer, Doc

Hi bud, you say genuine valve, did you also get the genuine clip ? The clip is a bit of a pain to fit but it shouldn't need any adhesive, it should snap into place on the cast lug.

Hi, thanks for getting in touch. Yes both clips are genuine and neither one will actually clip on and stay. The minute I press against the valve with my airgun it pops off. Been in the garage all morning trying to fit it. Luckily I have a good head of hair to pull. Cheers

Doc unless it's a broken / incorrect clip it should snap in place.  You could go to a straight stubby valve stem and eliminate the clip, I did as I have to get on the floor to check pressure and it's just easier for me.

Thinking on, some of the fitting problem might the cold weather we're having, try warming the clip in hot water to make it more pliable bud, it should push into place

oldwingguy wrote:

Doc unless it's a broken / incorrect clip it should snap in place.  You could go to a straight stubby valve stem and eliminate the clip, I did as I have to get on the floor to check pressure and it's just easier for me.

This is how I solved the problem as well. Much easier for me.

My warning/advise if you change to the straight valve to make sure you use the short stubby one to avoid it from striking the transmission on each rotation of the wheel. I know because I replaced mine with one that was too tall. My rear tire would go flat within 15 minutes of riding. At first I thought someone was letting the air out, but upon inspection I could see that the valve cap was wore down from striking something. Watching as I rotated the wheel, i saw it striking the forward transmission cover. Changed the stem with a shorter stem and all was good.

Thanks Easyrider,, I'll make sure it's a short one if I do go down that road . I have one more thing to try and if that fails then it's the short valve route.
Take care out there, I'll post the outcome when I'm done.

I'm having the problem of my rear tyre deflating quite quickly.

It started after I had a new rear tyre fitted a few months ago. I can't see any signs of a puncture. Now, my rear wheel is beginning to show it's age and my first thought was corrosion around the rim where the tyre seals itself. I'm going to take the wheel back to guy who fitted it and ask him if can 'smooth' the rim and paste on some sealant to prevent leaks.

When this is done I would like to fit an angled valve but the valve support is missing from my wheel and I have always had a straight valve fitted but I'm concerned that the reason for a straight valve being fitted, since I bought the bike, is because the support clip won't stay in place as mentioned above.

Here's my point: Please could somebody provide some detailed images of the angled valve and it's support clips in place on their own wheel? This way I can compare my own wheel and decide if I should buy the proper support clips and fit a proper angled valve. Many thanks. Chris

your wish, wash, whish??? is my comment.
I did not like the angeled rear valve and tire change came faster than expected since something just ate my tire and it lost the profile quite fast within 1000 km.
I asked the shop if they had flat angled vales and they had 2 left. I also asked them to mount it on the other side since I did not like it on the exhaust and brake disk side. With thick fingers it is not easy to operate a valve what flexes a bit an is also too high for easy air check.
Quite happy with the results.

Problem with SW is the brake discs are on opposite sides. I managed to fit a similar 90° stem on rear by rotating it forward a little and both are on right side. I didn't grind anything but it's a tight fit. Yeah disc is still in the way. Rear flexible one is a pain.

Sepp,
Double check that the valve stem clears the front part of the rear end when rotating tire.

I absolutely hated the stock tire valve...  As stated above it is a pain to get at due to the brake disk et al.  I switched to a valve that is identical with the one on the front.  Now I can access from the OTHER side! So far much happier.

Simple is short/straight/high speed valve from Honda Parts---works, both my tire chuck and gauge fit in-----nothing sticks out.

Thanks for all the input, especially the pics Sepp.

I like Sepp's tyre valve and will see about acquiring one.

"Sepp, what size is it? It looks like the options are 8.3mm or 11.3mm".

There's quite a few posts on here including from myself about Ariete racing valves as replacement for the troublesome OE valves. I bought a set for my Silver Wing to have fitted along with a pair of Continental ContiMove365 tyres.

The low profile valves looked good, made tyre pressure checks and pumping up a lot easier, and less frequent. I bought my set from a Louis store in Germany, but no doubt a Search will throw up a few UK suppliers. If it had been practical I'd have removed them and put the stock tyre valves back on when I sold the Silver Wing.

That's good to hear Meldrew. My local tyre fitter has one which he's going to try tomorrow, it's an 8.3mm so he's going to try it for size. As I asked Sepp above, do you know which size the SW has?

Hello mate, the Ariete valves fit 11.3mm holes and are the standard size for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha rims.

Oh Bugger! Well, I need the guy to do a puncture test and I'll get him to put some of that 'leak sealant' around the rim after a clean up so I hope his supplier can get an 11.3mm valve the same day. Miracles can happen 

Well, here's my new tyre valve.

Thankfully it wasn't a puncture letting all the air out, it was due to corrosion around the valve hole. The guy at the shop gave the orifice a good clean up (my Doctor tells me that all orifices can benefit from a good clean up, especially with a wire brush!). The tyre guy also commented on how well this new valve fitted against the rim, both inside and outside. He pressure tested it and all seems well.

BTW, I drew the arrow on the rim to make sure he fitted it the right way round but then realised it could only fit one way round, pointing to the left (as you sit on the bike). 

I have yet to see how it behaves. 

If you've ever wondered why people urge caution when fitting right angled tyre valves on the rear wheel which point to the left, have a look at this...look close, there's about 2mm clearance between the valve cap and the drive casing. Boy, was I lucky.....damn sight easier to check pressure and inflate though...phew!   

what is that? tansmission casing from behind?
MINE LOOKED THAT WAY AND SOMETHING WAS SCRATCHING BEFORE sorry capslock

but if there is something in the way ther is always the dremel to remove a few mm
OR IF POSSIBLE A SHORTER VALVE CAP.
damn time to hit the sack.

You also have some rusty drive splines there a little moly paste for lube works great.
Mine to the right no issues there except the brake disc.

Loosemarbles wrote:

If you've ever wondered why people urge caution when fitting right angled tyre valves on the rear wheel which point to the left, have a look at this...look close, there's about 2mm clearance between the valve cap and the drive casing. Boy, was I lucky.....damn sight easier to check pressure and inflate though...phew!   

When comparing Sepp's photo, it looks like someone has removed some metal from your rear end to make room for the valve stem clearance. I hope that I am wrong.
Looking at the photo again, it may just be the angle of your photo. Possibly just the reinforcement ridges that your valve cap gets close too.
Good luck and ride safe.

That's 'normal' bud, did mine years back & took the same picture .....



..... I also had to grind a small area on one of the casing support ribs for clearance ( there's a picture on here somewhere iirc)
I would reccomend replacing the alloy valve cap with a plastic one before water & road salt get into the threads & corrode the cap on, apparently after that happens it's a bugger to remove.

nah, if you look at my photo where the round thing (ballbearing mount for reduction gear) is next to the 4 screw holes. you see the valve is in that area on the other mounted wheel picture.
maybe something stuck to the top side of the tire or an adventure from a previous owner.
...and yes , next tire change I will clean up that rust, this time I was just too lazy.

That's what this forum is about...tips and tricks...and personal experience to be passed on!

I think I'll replace the cap with a rubber one. All in all a job worth doing.