Dead Swing.....In just 12 hours..help

So I rode the wing to work yesterday at 4pm. I worked until 4am. When parked, I took the key out of the ignition and put it in the dash tray compartment.

I bought the bike a week ago and the owner said he put a new battery in it this spring. Since I've had it, the wing started perfect and runs excellent. I went to get on the wing after work and there was nothing. Not even a dash light or anything. Luckily there was a charger handy. I got it started and drove it home no problem.

I got home and the battery, according to my charger, was 0%. I just woke and it's now charged to 100%.

Any idea what the heck happened? Was very odd

Was the seated properly closed and latched?
The (next-to -useless) under-seat light will stay on and drain the battery if the seat isn't properly closed. Just about everyone takes the bulb out, and carries a small flashlight in the dash pocket, just in case.

Graham.

Meter test the battery voltage. It should be approximately 12.75 Volts before you start the scoot. With the scoot running you should read approxitamely 14-14.5 Volts.

If you don't read 14+ volts when easing on the throttle then you may have a problem with altenator/stator or the regulator/rectifier.

If you read 15 volts or more then you are overcharging and cooking the battery.

Use the Search window for Bad Stator (or maybe it's Stator Bad). If the Stator checks okay then you might want to test the R/R per the FSM.

Tim

Winger61 wrote:

Was the seated properly closed and latched?
The (next-to -useless) under-seat light will stay on and drain the battery if the seat isn't properly closed. Just about everyone takes the bulb out, and carries a small flashlight in the dash pocket, just in case.

Graham.

I'm not sure if it was or not. I just removed that light bulb under the seat though! Now I need a tool to check the volts. I'm electrically challenged, which meter to I buy to check it? haha

You can use THIS LINK for a test meter to check most anything.  Here is a picture of it.

awesome!!! I borrowed one from my neighbor. From what I could figure out, while revving the engine I was getting in the mid 14's. Does that sound right?

I set the meter switch to 9v. Is that right? while running it was showing in the mid 14's. I tried many other settings but got nothing. I'm clueless

Here is my meter...I took a pic of it.  See the 9v setting?

https://servimg.com/view/19249865/2

2x_lung you should turn the dial three clicks counterclockwise to 20 on the Vdc setting.

model28a wrote:

2x_lung you should turn the dial three clicks counterclockwise to 20 on the Vdc setting.

If it's on the 20, can I start the bike and see what it reads as I rev it up some? I put the prongs on the battery, correct?

Well, I did it regardless. at idle it's in the high 13's. While revving the bike some it goes to about 14.6. I'd say it's charging just fine according to all you guys. Thanks so much. I pulled that pesky light out from under the seat/trunk. I bet I didn't have the seat close all the way and it drained the battery

2x_lung wrote:

Well, I did it regardless.   at idle it's in the high 13's.   While revving the bike some it goes to about 14.6.      I'd say it's charging just fine according to all you guys.   Thanks so much.  I pulled that pesky light out from under the seat/trunk.   I bet I didn't have the seat close all the way and it drained the battery

You did good with your diagnostic tests and your decision to remove the light bulb. Good luck I hope you "fixed" your problem.

According to your pic, that is not the right way to connect the leads of your meter. The black lead should be in the common input. The input where it says 10A should only be used to measure amperage up to a maximum of 10 amps. Since you obviously are a getting a voltage reading you may have found that out already but for the sake of someone else trying to use a multimeter I thought that I better point it out.

Good eye yammer, I missed that.

My world buying used bike (which I do not do unless giveaway price) how old is bike? miles/use and then what kind of electronic junk had prev. owner installed? this junk can cause static draw.....when put on wrong.

Get bike to stock and then go from there in testing or try Honda....you need them anyway if you need correct parts.....and like local dealer who stays in business.

Thanks John. It's nice that you can always be counted on for advice that's not the least bit helpful and generally very insulting/judgmental.

But my advice is based on actually riding and fixing bikes/scooters. Often owner installed electric stuff is botched. etc. To find problems, go back to the basic bike set up and work from there.I think my advice is helpful-----but maybe not to trailer bikers/white tennis shoe/cup holder types------I have done it/to it/wasted lots of money over the past 60 years. And I understand picking on me seems to be ok on this forum.

Supporting local dealer is GOOD advice.

post edited

Is it open season on JG again?

Maybe, if you took a step back and re-read what John has posted, it may be that you would see it's just his way of speaking/writing. How many of us have met him personally to know? How many of us always get things right, or post well-written posts? I know I certainly don't - I frequently have to edit my post when I'v posted it because it looks wrong, or could appear controversial.

"All you do is give unhelpful and insulting so-called "advice" and post your resume constantly. Every post for you is another adventure in your twisted vendetta against people who use trailers. What the hell is your problem?"

That sort of comment to me is just plain rude and unjustified.

If this is the way the tone of the comments is going on the site, I might just leave myself.
What happened to tolerance of other's opinions?

Graham

Hey DuggleBogey, I think that john grinsel gave some good advice in the case the seat was not left open. The rest of  your post between the two of you is just bitching, thread stealing, and worth nothing.  Maybe we need a section for gripes only.

SteveO

DuggleBogey wrote:

If I'm the only one who's sick of it, I'll quit this forum. In fact, nevermind, I'm gone.

No you're not, you're listed as currently online as I type this.

I edited the post and just took all of his comment off the topic.

I am back after a long time,thanks to help from the staff.
(bought an ST 1100), so let me please help.
For about 5 years, I was an automotive mechanic (way in my past) and even though I hate electronics, ( so confusing at times) there is one thing I learned.
If you disconnect the positive side of the battery, and connect a test light from one end and connect the other, to the battery, (if you have a short or a draw on the battery) the light will be on and there fore pull currant from your battery and drain it.
Like if you left your interior seat light on.
Now comes the HARD part. You will need a Honda SW repair manual and in the back pages, you will find a road map of your electrical system.
You need to start at the fuse box and pull each fuse, one by one, until the light goes out.
When you pull out the right one, (the bad fuse) you will know you have found the bad circuit.
Start back from the fuse block (down the black line) and find out what part is connected in line on that black line. (it will be abbreviated) and remove (disconnect) the problem.
If after you remove that problem and the light goes off, you have more that likely removed the problem.
BUT. There are also problems call "vampire" electrical problems.
I know first hand, they can not be, not the problem you first diagnosed.
Sorry. Just my own personal experience, with a ignition switch years ago. :afraid:
Don't be afraid young Luke. The force is with you. :lol!:

johnd there is another > test < for ghost / intermittent problems, the shake it, takes a little doing in some areas but just sharply moving wire (s) SOMETIMES can make the problem reoccur. When I first bought my S'wing removing the interior light bulb was a first thing recommendation. one of the reasons this set of wheels is going to remain bone stock with everything electrical is the chasing problems caused by add on's had enough of that on GW's.

You could not be more correct in saying DONT TOUCH THE WIRING. Every problem I have, including not having a headlight right now, is because of mechanics, monkey hands.

Done right add on is ok but remembering the very early years of GW THERE WERE NO SITES as good as this that newbies knew about. Now they have isolating panels for add on's and #3 relay on the Gwings are now safe from meltdown. THE most important electrical advice? GOOD - CLEAN - SOLID GROUNDS with appropriately sized wires.