Highway bars / footpegs build -- 1st prototype was a fail

After finally getting more time to work on the S'Wing yesterday. I installed the highway footpegs mount, I built last week, and did some test fitting, of the body panels, before committing to trimming access for the mount. Good thing I had not cut the panels as yet. Though the mount would certainly work, the location of the footpegs would be low enough that I would have concerns of scraping in tight corners. Too bad as it was a crossbar, behind the radiator, with 4 point mounting to the lower removable frame section -- it was a very solid setup.

Today I move onto version 2 which will be one mount, on each side, welded to the floorboard support frame. This will require a 3/4 inch hole in each lower panel for the footpegs to install through. Wish me luck.

BJ,
I had freeway pegs and later footboards done on my bike.
You can see them in my album linked below.
We used standard parts from the aftermarket Goldwing/Harley Kuryakyn catalog.
Clamp systems used are for the 1 inch tubing so we had to make an insert because SW is 3/4.
Since this system uses extensions you can have the mount 4 or 6 inches from where you want the actual peg/board. This way the peg/board stays out of the way of turns even if the mount is low.

Dan

SUCCESS!     Did some fine tuning and assembly on the S'Wing this afternoon and fitted my highway footpegs. As you can see from the pics below they are pretty straightforward appearing. I also have the option to fashion some brackets to drop them forward and down if I decide i would like the extra room. Right now this gives me about 3 inches of extra leg room.

The mounting is a thick steel tab welded to the floorboard support frame on each side. Then a long bolt with alloy spaces passes through the lower body panel and the footpeg screws on to the bolt.

Drag in hard cornering?

john grinsel wrote:

Drag in hard cornering?

Nope, not at the height I have them and as they mount very close to the body panels. The scoot would have slide out from other other parts grounding well before the footpegs would drag. I did a mockup with broom handle pieces to check the lean angle before the build. We ride a lot of mountain twisties up here and retaining corner clearance was imperative.

I also have the option of going to a nicer foot peg, as they just bolt on. These are inexpensive Ebay aluminum ones @ $15. I would prefer black pegs as they would stand out (color-wise) less. When I have the cosmetics on the scooter done, it will have black accents as well, so they would also match better.

Nice BJ. So is that a giant stove bolt nut welded to the frame, or a square of flat stock welded and custom threaded? If flat stock was used what are the dimensions?

Tim

Good Job BJ. Inexpensive and elegant solution.
If you feel like writing up the process to the point where others can follow your directions step by step to get the same results, I bet a lot of people would be interested.

Dan

Thanks guys, I appreciate the thumbs up. Yes the tab is a square 'stove bolt' nut welded to the floorboard frame. The threads of the nuts were mostly drilled out so a long bolt passes through with a snug fit. Sure, I can write up a process.

Obviously, access to welding is essential. I use a MIG wire feed with shielding gas. This makes tacking, and alignment, less of a chore as well as providing clean welds. The difficulty is locating where to drill/trim holes in the panels, in the correct location, with minimal removal of plastic. I'll try to get something more detailed up within the week.