Rear Tyre Change

Well boys and girls

Finally got round to removing rear wheel (few days ago) using the excellent instructions posted on this site, had a bit panic attack when removing the exhaust sensor as I thought the wires might twist off whilst undoing! What I didn't expect was the round gasket between the down pipes and exhaust to disintegrate when I slide the exhaust off! The tyre change went smoothly at the local car garage and I balanced the wheel using a paddock stand spindle and rollers bought off amazon (long term investment me thinks) and sticky weights given to me by the garage. So the round gasket thingy turned up today and bike back together and went for a great ride - everything tip top. I really missed the Swing for the last few days waiting for the post!!!

The old rear tyre was completely bald - my fault I know but now handles great again.

Mark

A bike sure feels good with a new set of tires.(tyres)

My rear tyre is down to the wear marks, about, 1mm i think, definately time to change. Starting to have forcasts of snow, so , need good tread for the coming months. 

Why remove the exhaust sensor ? Leave it in the silencer and unplug it from the loom after removing the side panel.

Er well yes, should have thought about that! The instructions didn't mention the sensor, afterwards I thought the instructions might have been for an earlier Swing. Ok experts, how do you take the side panel off? (I'm being lazy and enjoying a beer, coz I'm sure I could work it out)

Kindest regards

Mark

No----take the sensor out

john grinsel wrote:

No----take the sensor out

Why?

because I believe you take the pipe/muffler down out to get wheel out.

john grinsel wrote:

because I believe you take the pipe/muffler down out to get wheel out.

Yes you do, so why not just leave the O2 sensor in the pipe, disconnect the sensor's electrical wire from its harness behind the side panel, and drop the pipe/muffler with the sensor still in it?
Seems logical to me.
I had to remove the sensor when I replaced the stock muffler with a high performance muffler. I disconnected the sensor's electrical connector from the bike, and proceeded to use an open ended wrench to remove the sensor. With this method and the wire disconnected from the bike, the sensor could rotate without twisting the wire. Otherwise I would have had to use a special sensor socket with the cutout for the sensor wire.

Ok then, how do you remove that right side panel to get at the electrical connections?

Many thanks

Mark

The owners manual will show to remove that right side panel to change or clean the air filter.

I leave the sensor in the pipe, I just turn it around and stand the exhaust pipe upright against the bike whilst i remove the wheel, i don't disconnect anything electrical.

Mrpw666 wrote:

Ok then, how do you remove that right side panel to get at the electrical connections?

Many thanks

Mark

Hey Mark.

Remove the rear horizontal plate above the licence plate (2 screws). Open the seat. Remove the 2 screws holding the right side cover in place. The screws are at the top front and top rear of the cover. The tricky part is then loosening the tabs that hold the cover in place. I push up (vertically) on the cover first to loosen the top tabs. Then I work on the tabs along the front and then the rear of the cover. Once all tabs are loose give the cover a good yank away from the bike, as there's a rubber bushed pushpin type attachment still holding it on.

Oh, and when you're done, order a service manual from Helm  

I find it easier to remove the passenger footpeg and unplug the lead and then remove it with the silencer. its only two socket screws and theres no chance of breaking the plastic panel.

Even easier is not to remove the muffler at all (on either old or new style, with or without O2 sensor).

If you can raise the back tire enough (I do so with a lift with a hole under the rear tire), you can work the tire out without removing the muffler (you do have to tilt the tire both ways as you're working it off, but it's not difficult).

You only have to remove the muffler if you can't get the back wheel high enough.

I just took mine to my local friendly motorcycle mechanic who supplied and fitted a new rear tyre (Anon Viper Stryke) for £70. I also read the instructions and knew I was capable (I'm a reasonably skilled diy mechanic) but when I watched him do it I thought I was happy to pay him because it really is quite a fiddle.

I wouldn't want to cause you any worry, but I have only heard bad reports about Avon Vipers.
Some of the members on Maxi-Muppets.co.uk have fitted them, and then found them to be lacking in grip.
I've only ever used Bridgestone Hoops, so no personal experience, just my 10 cents worth - you may like them!

Graham.

I also had problem with Avon striker viper .It had severe gouge cupping on half the tire .I replace it with Michelin power pure sport dual compound rubber,and am very please with this one.

Well so far I've put about 1000 miles on it and found it fine. I actually think it feels better in the wet, though I'm still having to consciously remember to operate the throttle more gently in the wet on the Swing than I was able to on my old Beemers. Apart from that, I also want to see if the Avon last any longer than the original Bridgestone it replaced which lived 5700 miles. I used Avons on a variety of bikes over the years, including the old Beemers though they definitely preferred Metzelers. There's also a serious lack of choice of tyres here for Swing sized wheels I think. Anyway, thanks for the input, I'll keep it in mind and report anything of note I may experience. As always, it's a game of juggling whats best with what's affordable!