Tupperware Tab repair?

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Tupperware Repair Update:

BTW if you're going to use ABS Cement stick with the ABS-specific cement, not the ABS / PVC cement.

Drat, I got the ABS/PVC glue - only ABS glue they had in the store. Have not gotten to it but I guess that can goes back, or stays on the shelf, while I get the correct stuff.

Tupperware Repair Update:

Another product that can be used for tupperware repair is "Kleer Strip liquid paint Stripper". It's usually available at a good hardware store like Ace or True Value for about $10.50/qt.

It contains 70-85% Methylene Chloride which is also used as an acrylic cement as well as in Plastex

Kleer Strip won't be as thick as ABS plumbing cement so it may be a bit easier to use with fiberglass, drywall, joint tape.

BTW if you're going to use ABS Cement stick with the ABS-specific cement, not the ABS / PVC cement.

And DO sand the paint off the back side of the joint before applying the chemical(s).

Had to repair screw tab on my '11 (yep, you read that right, broke already) on the piece that covers the windshield screws. Used some JB Stick and it seems to work okay (though gloves are a must - it took me longer to get the residue off my hands than it took to repair)

On another note, accidentally punched a couple holes in the butt pad when installing Utopia backrest. Fixed it with a vinyl repair kit but it left bulges where the kit;s hot iron was used.

I do acrylic nails as a profession on ladies and I must say the stuff I use works the best mixing liquid acetate with acrylic powder applied with a brush, you can buy at Sallys beauty supply

I am done with my project of repairing the broken tabs and making 1 bracket that was lost and I am very pleased with the results.
I used the ABS and tape method. The vibration I was getting, came from the right side of the Tupperware where a bracket was missing. I had a bit of a scare as I was installing the whole piece back on the scooter though. After hearing the familiar snap, crackle and pop I looked down and saw a large broken piece on the ground. I removed everything and started looking for something missing on the Tupperware or scooter. Nothing!
I reassembled everything again and after the job was completely done, I realized that the piece was actually the part I had made two days before. :lol!:

Looks like somebody beat me to it! I used to work in a motorcycle spray shop where plastic panel repair was our bread and butter work.

I used an ordinary 35-40 watt soldering iron with a tip that hat been filed down at the end to remove about half the metal - this allowed it to heat up faster but also not carry as much heat.

We found the best material to repair fairings was the same stuff i.e. strips of plastic cut from old fairings of a smilar vintage! However there is a proviso, you must remove all old paint and decal from both the area to be welded and the material you are using as a filler rod. If you don't then the weld will go brittle and crack again fairly shortly.

Using cable ties is ok, as long as the panel you are welding is made of the same plastic......... Becareful, as some plastics have a tendancy to literally evaporate in front of your eyes when heat is applied; you can tell which stuff it is, as it tends to be very soft and malable. I think, from memory, that the foot boards on a 600 Swing are moulded out of it, so be wary.

I've 'welded' whole panels back together again using the 'stitch' and 'weld' method and with excellent end results, but I did have the facility to completely refinish panels in a professional spray booth. You can get much the same at home with a little patience and practice.

In fact I'd say that practice, esp with the soldiering iron, prior to starting will make the whole job easier. You can also make securing tabs etc. and weld them on in the same way with a bit of practice. But remember you MUST remove all traces of paint etc. from the piece to be welded or it won't work long term!

Wow, the plastic welding sure looks promising and easy. I just bought the fiberglass and glue but will consider this alternative. The glue I got claims to work with ABS, PVC, etc. which makes me wonder if it will really work ...

Hopefully I will get to look at the project again this weekend and pick a technique. I really like the building up process using cable ties - I have tons of them.

Try looking at this post I made on BurgmanUSA. I don't know where I first saw it, but the process works well.
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=55338&p=510129&hilit=plastic+welding#p510129

The man in the video "welds" plastic.

Chris

john123 wrote:

I am with Cosmic. After removing my topper where "Tupperware", because of a vibration in the front, I also found a broken piece or two. The ABS and tape work fantastic. I sanded down all areas a little first and then cleaned the area well. The next day the parts were rock hard.

John123,

Sorry It's in my blood. Plus it helps others understand when the correct terms are used.

I did get a pretty good chuckle though. - No worries mate!

I do agree that the process cosmic_jumper has outlined is the best way to go. As John has verified.

I am with Cosmic. After removing my topper where, because of a vibration in the front, I also found a broken piece or two. The ABS and tape work fantastic. I sanded down all areas a little first and then cleaned the area well. The next day the parts were rock hard.

Thanks Cosmic_Jumper, that makes a lot of sense. Have to buy the acetone with the ABS goop - wife doesn't do her nails...

You can start out with a tiny wipe of acetone (nail polisher remover) to join the two pieces together. The acetone will melt the tupperware & paint finish but the two pieces will get fused together.

After the pieces are fused together you can apply ABS (not PVC) plumbing pipe adhesive to the back side of the of the joint followed by pieces of fiberglass drywall joint "tape". It's thick, black & goopy stuff that will set up in about an hour, but takes ~ 24 hours to totally cure. You can repeat as many times as you feel necessary to build up a secure repair.

The ABS cement & drywall fiberglass can be purchased from Home Depot, Lowe's, some hardware stores and many RV supply stores. However in many areas ABS plumbing for residences is not permitted and the big box stores won't carry it.

You might also try a good hobby supply store for ABS modeling panels & cement.

Fiberglass cloth? Sounds interesting but I have no experience with anything like that. Do you have a link for material names? I can find an R/C shop. Sounds like a good research project but not a quick solution. Sigh. Maybe my bike will get winterized after all... But Epoxy sound like the way to go.

I have not had good luck with JB weld - forms a hard but brittle hunk and not real sticky. Had it pop off things or break.

I use the same two part epoxy on the silver wing that I use on my R/C airplanes.Use a product that will set up in around ten minutes.You should be able to purchase it at your local hobby shop.Be sure to use the fiberglass cloth material on both sides of the part.It can be a little nerve racking when working on small parts,but worth it.

I've not use it myself, but some have used "J-B Weld" to do repairs with. I hear it's quite the thing. Don't know if they just use it like an epoxy glue or try to mold it into something else.

What are the recommended methods for repairing a broken screw tab on the body work?

While removing the left skirt to change the coolant I found that I have a broken Tab where the front outer floorboard screw connects the floorboard to the front cowling. I think... that it was already broken since the screw did a lot of spinning without backing out, but it may have been me - I unscrewed the skirt from the rear. I am not sure I needed to take out the screw to remove the skirt.... but I took all the floorboard screws out.

Recommendation - if you are removing the skirt start at the front, then the rear and finish in the middle.

I am not ready to buy a whole new front cowling for one screw tab but can see the rattle growing if I don't attach this correctly. I already had quite a rattle "somewhere in front" and it was not there when I tested the bike with the skirt and left pocket removed.

I am imagining screwing my own angle iron piece or tons of epoxy... but was wondering what have others done?

Can it be done without removing the entire front cowling?

And will epoxy stick to tupperware?