stripped the screw for the brakes calipers pin how do I proceed?

I'm replacing the brakes on my bike but then I stripped the pin that holds the two brake pads together and I can't get it off now to change them how do I proceed next?

If what I’m looking at is an Allen screw, you have a few options- one is to use a square bit of the appropriate size, lightly hammer it in (similar to a Torx bit but more contact points- 12). This is what had to be done on my ST fork at the bottom as the Allen screw head got stripped. A Torx bit can work as well assuming not too much corrosion (and if you can see the threads of the screw, maybe some penetrating spray might help as well, just to get the screw to break free more easily). The pin is done anyway so I would not re-use it, just get a new brake pad pin (maybe put some anti-seize on the threads of the new one)- also, with the new pin, don’t try to approximate the head size with an SAE Allen wrench (not implying you did that)- just get a very good set of metric Allen wrenches.

EDIT: I see in the pic you have one of those folding type multiple Allen wrenches and they’re fine for most jobs, but you’re better off getting a better set (I bought a Craftsman set from Lowes and they have been fine). The set I have have longer handles and will break free any bolt pretty easily- the other option is a set of metric Allen sockets (these would probably be best since you can ply more torque to the screw / pin you need to loosen)- Lowes has them as well and I bought a set recently, like $21

Second that Torx bit to remove it but it will most likely have to be hammered in. Don't do it on bike could bend brake rotor. Find something to support it wood blocks etc. Once Torx is tight mount caliper back on and try to loosen it.

Just thought about this (and I could be wrong)- since the caliper is off the bike, can you just grab the pin with a channel lock or Vise grip and twist / rotate the pin to loosen it (and again, be liberal with some penetrating lube spray at the threads)? That’s assuming you have space between the brake pads to be able to grab the pin with the Vise grip (and they do make needle nose type vise grips as well)- the pin will be damaged but you need to replace that anyway. Just a thought

Erdoc48 wrote:

Just thought about this (and I could be wrong)- since the caliper is off the bike, can you just grab the pin with a channel lock or Vise grip and twist / rotate the pin to loosen it (and again, be liberal with some penetrating lube spray at the threads)? That’s assuming you have space between the brake pads to be able to grab the pin with the Vise grip (and they do make needle nose type vise grips as well)- the pin will be damaged but you need to replace that anyway. Just a thought

Tried that, this thing WON'T budge. That's why I stripped it to begin with. It's like it has loctite on it. The last time I changed the breaks on this was only 3 years ago and I myself put it not that tight.

Got one more trick (and some may disagree) how about heating it at the point where the pin goes through the caliper (so heat the caliper at that point with a torch but not enough heat to damage the metal, just to be able to break the pin free)?

Erdoc48 wrote:

Got one more trick (and some may disagree) how about heating it at the point where the pin goes through the caliper (so heat the caliper at that point with a torch but not enough heat to damage the metal, just to be able to break the pin free)?

I don't feel comfortable about using heat nor do I have access to a touch

Erdoc48 wrote:

- one is to use a square bit of the appropriate size, lightly hammer it in (similar to a Torx bit but more contact points- 12).

Square bit? Do you mean one of these?

Sorry about my original post- it’s actually called a ‘triple square’ it has 12 points of contact. So it’s basically a torx bit with double the number of contact points

Here is a set at Lowes:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-10-Piece-XZN-Triple-Square-Spline-Bit-Socket-Set-Metric/1002326906

Just so you can see what it looks like, but in reality a torx bit will probably work fine, but it’ll need to be a tighter fit (that’s why it would need to be tapped in) to fit in the inside of the allen head- more contact points would be expected to give more success in removing the pin.

The torx bit in your pic may work just fine assuming it’s grabbing the inside wall of the allen head.

Erdoc48 wrote:

Sorry about my original post- it’s actually called a ‘triple square’ it has 12 points of contact. So it’s basically a torx bit with double the number of contact points

Here is a set at Lowes:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-10-Piece-XZN-Triple-Square-Spline-Bit-Socket-Set-Metric/1002326906

Just so you can see what it looks like, but in reality a torx bit will probably work fine, but it’ll need to be a tighter fit (that’s why it would need to be tapped in) to fit in the inside of the allen head- more contact points would be expected to give more success in removing the pin.

The torx bit in your pic may work just fine assuming it’s grabbing the inside wall of the allen head.

My only concern is if even when I had such a good Force before it got stripped and that didn't work a purposely incorrect one even budget either?

Effectively what you’re trying to do is cut new slits in the allen head interior and use the bit to dig into the metal to give more points of contact to extract the brake pin. I agree, you need to be careful banging on the caliper to drive the bit into the Allen head

One more idea (that shouldn’t require banging on the caliper):
https://www.amazon.com/Topec-Extractor-Multi-Spline-Premium-Rounded/dp/B07YBWNCZV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=ez%2Bout%2Bextractor&qid=1701567892&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I hate to see you spend more money on tools but I’m out of ideas otherwise. Lastly, consider taking it to a bike shop as they should have all the appropriate tools to get the pin out (but I would have a replacement one available if you go this route).

12/3/23: Just an edit- when you do get this work completed, please let us know how you ultimately got the pin out (just in case we run into the same issue)

my suggestion is a hammer and driver to loosen the screw, then it usually works out
if it's really tough then you can build the weld with me until you get a grip with pliers

/Stefan

XDM:copyright: wrote:

I'm replacing the brakes on my bike but then I stripped the pin that holds the two brake pads together and I can't get it off now to change them how do I proceed next?

https://www.mildnear.com/products/tool-23103002

Well, the weekend has returned so that means time to deal with this. I'm thinking to use a penetrating oil then try to hammer in a bit and if that doesn't work finally try to vice grip method again. but I was also wondering that screw is custom to this brake caliber isn't it? I can't just pick this up from a hardware store can I?

Check Internet for a second hand caliper with a good hanger pin if it's cheap enough or a Honda dealer for a new one. I assume you got the outer pin off ok? There should be an outer pin which screws in on top of the hanger pin.

I wouldn’t try a hardware store- since it’s a specific piece, I’d get it from Honda, maybe Partzilla or Babbitt’s online - unfortunately they charge a decent buck for shipping, so maybe if you need other parts, come up with a parts list and save on the shipping. By the way, here’s the schematic from Partzilla and I believe you need the hanger pin (#15 in the schematic):




Part #15 (I did the search for a 2010…I would assume they’re all the same but check with your year SWing)

Erdoc48 wrote:

I wouldn’t try a hardware store- since it’s a specific piece, I’d get it from Honda, maybe Partzilla or Babbitt’s online - unfortunately they charge a decent buck for shipping, so maybe if you need other parts, come up with a parts list and save on the shipping. By the way, here’s the schematic from Partzilla and I believe you need the hanger pin (#15 in the schematic):




Part #15 (I did the search for a 2010…I would assume they’re all the same but check with your year SWing)

That was the plan, I always get from partzilla. I just didn't want to get a SINGLE screw. They might charge me like $13 for shipping alone

If you need part#14 as well it might reduce the shipping. Maybe replace the rubber dust covers too.

Anything that has threadlocker on it can be a real bear.

If you have the capability to drill a hole and pound in an easy-out, that has always worked for me, though at times it's been a chore.

What works great, easy-out or pounded in bit, is to heat the area with a heat gun before putting any pressure on it. Then put steady pressure on the bolt while continuing to heat it, it will start to turn once the threadlocker melts.

If this is what you need I have it for sale (figure $35 delivered):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tE22ySteZfH1n8mR9

After looking in depth the whole caliper i see rust and resistance so i just decided to buy another caliper. and also my luck the oil drain plug is also seized and chipped...just my luck...

Hi, I worked in the trade for many years and a seized / rounded off brake pins were a common thing. The most invasive way to remove it is to hammer in a over sized Allen bit, do this with the caliper off and supported by a strong piece of wood on a solid surface to allow you to hammer in the bit. You have to heat it, this will expand the Aluminium around the pin, break the corrosion and the pin will come out. This way the only thing that needs replacing is the pin. You don't have to get it that hot, to give you a good idea when the caliper around the pin is smoking. This will work. I understand your apprehension at using a portable blow torch, just be careful, move flammable things away, have a fire extinguisher to hand.

Merry Christmas everyone.

Andrew -UK-.

Drill it out and then easy out tool, just go slow and drill with a bit of caution

I'm in the same position as the OP.
Used SW rear brake calipers seem to be as rare things, but they look the same as the front left calipers used early CBR600's, Hornets, Bandits etc. Has anybody tried this yet?

So the new back brake system came in. Should I use anti-seize on that pin this time? On googling, some people say I should actually use loctite, but I need to be able to get this off when it's time to change those breaks again. What should I use on that pin?

Hi XMD.
Personally I have just replaced my rear pin due to the onset of corrosion, having had to free up the
rear brake after having been garaged for a month.
My advise is give the thread in the caliper a good clean out with brake cleaner spray,
then coat the Pin and thread in Anti-seize.
Never Loctite. If your worried about the pin coming loose, it won't if you use the pin plug to lock against
the pin.(item 14 above)

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

JohnyC wrote:

Hi XMD.
Personally I have just replaced my rear pin due to the onset of corrosion, having had to free up the
rear brake after having been garaged for a month.
My advise is give the thread in the caliper a good clean out with brake cleaner spray,
then coat the Pin and thread in Anti-seize.
Never Loctite. If your worried about the pin coming loose, it won't if you use the pin plug to lock against
the pin.(item 14 above)

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

Thanks, I'll get that anti-seize