special tools needed for Malossi White installation?

So I'm looking into that possibility of installing a Malossi White spring. But looking into it I don't really see much instructions on how do do it. I see one thread on it but it looks like he's using a special machine to do it.
It's that necessary? Still I need any kind of specific tools to do that?

Check here:

https://www.silverwing600.com/t12959-malossi-white-contra-spring-17kgs?highlight=Malossi+spring

EDIT:Sorry, I think you may have seen my link I put here- JohnyC would be the person to ask since he did this mod.

Hi XDM
There are plenty of Youtubes on how to remove/replace the drive belt on a Swing. Once your at the point of being able to remove the belt by cracking the L/H varaitor lock nut also crack/loosen the r/h driven face lock nut(you will need the hand brake on, and probably a hand full of rear brake to crack the nut) before  you remove the belt. The R/H drive face assembly is removed as one unit.

The only "Special Tool" you need is a universal pully holder, No "Factory" tools were needed to undertake this work.

The "Machine" is just a lashed together compression tool to compress the driven face unit, consisting of a plywood base, some 12mm threaded bar, a square compression bar and 2 curved spacers to allow access to the circlip that holds it all together.





Hope this helps

Be safe, be seen!

I used a piece of alum channel measuring 2 1/2 x2 1/2 x 2 1/2 with a 3/8” hole in the center and a 4 1/2” piece of flat aluminum with a 3/8” hole drilled into it with a 18” piece of 3/8” rod ,2 nuts and washers



You tighten it down till it’s compressed enough and there’s no pressure on the snap ring ,remove the snap ing and then loosen it till all pressure is released,while I had it apart I also installed a Malossi SportFly clutch and Malossi belt



Variator holder


You can stop by most glass shops and get a 2 1/2” x 6” x 24” piece of alum tubing and that length is scrap so after explaining what you’re going to use it for it’ll probably be given to you for free,carve it up at home using a jigsaw and you’ll be set,you’ll also be able to get the variator holder out of it

Hmm, that doesn't look terribly hard to pull off. Provided I can find them cut already as I don't have any Dremel or cutting tools.

XDM:copyright: wrote:

Hmm, that doesn't look terribly hard to pull off. Provided I can find them cut already as I don't have any Dremel or cutting tools.

Well the glass shop could rip it down for you for a small charge ($20?) ( the material for this will come out of is scrap )they may ask you to come back, give them these photos and you’ll only need to pick up (2) 1/4-20 x 1” screws/bolts with (2) nuts ,and a piece of 3/8” threaded rod 18” with (2) nuts , snap-ring pliers

Hate to ask: What’s the benefit of the Malossi spring? I know it’s of greater length than the OEM one, so I assume it applies more spring pressure to the driven face (I assume it prevents it from going into higher ‘gear’ more rapidly)- greater acceleration is the result? And if you use this, would heavier weights, like a 28 gram type (I have 26G sliders and the OEM spring in mine) be indicated?

Erdoc48 wrote:

Hate to ask: What’s the benefit of the Malossi spring? I know it’s of greater length than the OEM one, so I assume it applies more spring pressure to the driven face (I assume it prevents it from going into higher ‘gear’ more rapidly)- greater acceleration is the result? And if you use this, would heavier weights, like a 28 gram type (I have 26G sliders and the OEM spring in mine) be indicated?

I used Google before doing mine “Advantage of the White Contra spring” and it was one part of 4 things needed to improve the CVT so I installed all four and the difference in the bike was night and day,I installed 3 parts with Malossi products ,belt,White Contra spring and SportFly clutch with 28 gram Dr Pulley sliders , I recall folks saying 24-26 gram sliders increased performance off the line but raised the rpm’s at highway speeds and 28 gram was the sweet spot keeping the rpm’s close to stock so that’s what I went with,I may try 30 gram sliders if I find a set that someone tried but didn’t keep installed.

I installed the Hyperpro springs today ( I followed what forum member The Bern wrote on changing them) and after seeing the stock springs I now understand why the front end was nose diving with even the slightest use of the front brake,not only was the stock springs thinner gauge but the coils looked like they were overstretched making for a very light spring ,again the difference was felt immediately,Honda should’ve used a beefier spring in the front end. You only eliminate the spacer ,not the spring seat which a forum member told me to remove ,the spring would’ve been right on the fork cap which is a no-no ,it’s a spring seat not a washer.My front brakes were also close to being metal to metal but surprisingly the rears still had some meat left on the pads which are the ones I expected to be worn thin.

I bought my bike in March without knowing it’s service history so now I completed doing everthing I wanted to do starting my own service records of when it’s was done and at what mileage ,I found someone to mount and speed balance the City Grips 2’s for $90 each ,which I did one at a time starting with the rear first this way I did the springs while the front tire was being done. New headlights next.

Thank you for the information!

Johnbil09 wrote:

XDM:copyright: wrote:

Hmm, that doesn't look terribly hard to pull off. Provided I can find them cut already as I don't have any Dremel or cutting tools.

Well the glass shop could rip it down for you for a small charge ($20?) ( the material for this will come out of is scrap )they may ask you to come back, give them these photos and you’ll only need to pick up (2) 1/4-20 x 1” screws/bolts with (2) nuts ,and a piece of 3/8” threaded rod 18” with (2) nuts , snap-ring pliers

Good stuff    John and Thanks

ezed1 wrote:

Johnbil09 wrote:

XDM:copyright: wrote:

Hmm, that doesn't look terribly hard to pull off. Provided I can find them cut already as I don't have any Dremel or cutting tools.

Well the glass shop could rip it down for you for a small charge ($20?) ( the material for this will come out of is scrap )they may ask you to come back, give them these photos and you’ll only need to pick up (2) 1/4-20 x 1” screws/bolts with (2) nuts ,and a piece of 3/8” threaded rod 18” with (2) nuts , snap-ring pliers

Good stuff    John and Thanks

Your welcome,I’m glad I can help

Erdoc48 wrote:

Thank you for the information!

Your welcome,I’m glad I can help

A little late, but I've made DIY tools that came be made with simple hand tools and a drill motor,  they have worked great for me over the years, the torque/contra spring compressor is fairly simple to duplicate, this pic shows using on my Burgman 400, but same principle for SW600, you can use square pieces of wood instead of sockets shown or any suitable/available spacers, etc.

The variator holder is just as simple, had it forever. Sorry if I posted these before