I killed it...

I described my lighting test problems in the other thread:

Quote :

When I went to test the driving lights, They did not come on. I checked voltage at the front terminus of my lead wires from the relay in back. No voltage...

I noticed that the tail light was not on. I checked, and the rear turn signals work, but there are no brake lights. I immediately suspected the taillight connector, so removed it and plugged the stock taillight plugs back together. Same thing - turn signals, but no tail or brake lights.

I checked the taillight fuse with an ohmmeter and it is good. The inline fuse from the battery to the relay is good. (It would have no effect on the taillights though - different circuit.)

I checked the ground wire stack to make certain I did not miss one when I added the driving light ground.

I've came to the conclusion that the driving light relay is bad. There are no mistakes in the wiring itself. I was checking with the taillight connector out of the circuit, but still had power from the battery to the relay. The 10 amp fuse directly below the 15 amp fuse started popping. Now it is completely dead electrically. The new driving light circuit is completely isolated (in-line fuse removed and taillight connector removed from the taillight circuit) but the scooter is electrically dead. I suspect that I've fried one of the three Omron relays located directly above the battery.

Any suggestions?

Addenum: The battery is putting out power, but turning the key on does nothing - no dash lights, etc.

Hi Gyro,

Check your main fuse"A" located under the left rear side cover on top of your starter relay, under black rubber cover. 30 amp.

DennisB wrote:

Hi Gyro,

Check your main fuse"A" located under the left rear side cover on top of your starter relay, under black rubber cover. 30 amp.

I just checked it. It's good.

Try the normal things: Kill switch off and the side stand up. Can you hear the fuel pump when first switch on? If you dont hear it check the starter circuit.

RArch wrote:

Try the normal things: Kill switch off and the side stand up. Can you hear the fuel pump when first switch on? If you dont hear it check the starter circuit.

I can hear the fuel pump and I hear the relay click as the pump starts and stops.

Update: Culprit last night was the 30 amp "Main Fuse B." Nothing wrong with any of the Omron relays.

This morning, I removed the driving light relay and replaced the 30 amp fuse. Power is restored, and everything on the S'wing appears to be functioning normally. I bypassed the driving lights relay and wired the lights direct. They function normally now, but I do not want to leave them like this as it is possible to forget to turn them off. I'm off to look for another relay at the local auto parts stores. (Whew!)

Another relay solved the problem. All fixed!

All fixed plus an excuse to visit the auto parts store.

Good to hear

Always fuse lower than whats upstream, what was the fuse size from your battery feed? ..... glad to hear you got it sorted out.

trouble1100 wrote:

Always fuse lower than whats upstream, what was the fuse size from your battery feed? ..... glad to hear you got it sorted out.

15 amp, and I never blew it. The problem was not in the driving lights or power outlet circuit at all. It was a dead short in the coil of the driving light relay. That short acted across the tail light circuit through the connector. The 30 amp "Main Circuit B" I mentioned earlier? It wasn't blown. When I pulled it to check it the first time, I did a bonehead mistake and plugged it back in the spare slot! That's why everything went dead and I thought I'd killed it.

Gyro wrote:

I did a bonehead mistake and plugged it back in the spare slot! That's why everything went dead and I thought I'd killed it.