Ignition Switch

Hi All...
Got my SWing out of storage again today and tried to start with jumper cables since the battery was dead... When I tried to start it the key would not go to the "ignition" position... not knowing what else to do, I searched this site and tried all the possible solutions, ie, jiggling, WD-40, carb cleaner, "extra" force, etc... of course, no luck... I even took off the handle bar covers to see if the tumbler assembly was accessible...
nope... that's really a tough nut to crack that they put it in...

Anyway, my question now is: Would a regular locksmith be able to work on this thing...?? Someone mentioned before that this area of expertise gets a bit expensive to remove and replace... Any thoughts...??

Same here mate, All my locks seem to have seized.
I got the seat open, still having problems with my fuel cap and side glovebox box, but the ignition switch is a real worry.
I tried WD40 Silicone spray on the ones i could get to move.
It's been in storage for 6 years

Well, mine had been in storage too but ran it, ostensibly, to keep the battery charged about six weeks ago. All worked fine then which what is so surprising now...

Try powdered graphite. It comes in tubes with a small nozzle. Spritz some in the tumbler slot and give the lock assembly some firm but gentle taps to encourage that graphite to distribute into the tumbler pins.

And yeah, you’ve got to pretty much disassemble 2/3rds of the scoot to get the ignition switch.

There's a lot of topics on seized ignition switches on motorcycle and motoring forums. Powdered graphite is usually recommended for lubricating locks. However there's posts saying adding powered graphite to a lock previously treated with WD-40 or other moisture dispersing lubricatng sprays isn’t a good idea.

An old hack to free seized locks used to be rubbing the ignition key with a pencil to coat it with graphite and working the key back and forward to free the lock.

I've got my steering stem off at the moment. To get to that ignition switch you just need to remove the plastic from around the handlebars. Remove the handlebars leaving everything attached. Undo the large bolt which attaches the handlebar mount to the stem and the ignition switch comes off with the whole assembly.

Here's what it looks like from underneath. Removing those two bolts should release the ignition barrel from the assembly. I have no idea what you will find in there though!



If you do decide to go in there and fix it, make sure the assembly mount is earthed before you test it otherwise the FI light will come on.....it sure spooked me

Thanks, everyone... I'll try again this morning to see what else I can come up with... :-)  And yes, "Loosemarbles", I see what you're talking about on that handle bar removal, having already removed the covers in that area...  although even that doesn't look like a whole lot of fun...

Just to let everyone know... the key problem evidently solved itself... must not have "jiggled" it just right to begin with... went back out the other morning, fiddled around a bit more and managed to operate as advertised... right now I'm attempting to get the "new" battery charged back up... thanks for everyone's help...

Good news Dicko.

Hey DickO I find my key a little hard to insert also, but eventually get it right. After four different Swings this quirk seems common. I like Meldrew's idea using a pencil.

two tips on ignition switch

1. ride/use the bike everyday

2. No heavy key rings---use single key


Also winter and heavy rain---shot of WD 40 seems to hurt nothing

I know they are pain to get to/work on

Good advice John. I don't have problem with tip No.1. As for tip No.2, I'm sure that if use my bike key separately I'll lose it within a week. The reason I don't like my key bunch hanging from the ignition is because of the rattling, but I've gotten used to it.

I keep thinking of making a gadget to hold the keys away from the tuppeware and also to take the weight.

john grinsel wrote:

two tips on ignition switch

1. ride/use the bike everyday

2. No heavy key rings---use single key


Also winter and heavy rain---shot of WD 40 seems to hurt nothing

I know they are pain to get to/work on

Hmm… I neither need to or want to ride aimlessly round on my Forza everyday, it's a pointless waste of time if I don't have a reason or destination. I must be riding frequently enough as I'm not getting emails from the security company monitoring the Forza's tracker 24/7 asking why the engine hasn't been started or the scooter hasn't moved recently.

As for keys, I've always had at least half a dozen on any of my maxi scooters key ring, Abus chain locks, top box, RAM Mounts etc, and I've never had a problem. Although I would have if I had a single ignition key separate and all the other keys on another key ring.

Anyway I no longer need an ignition key, the Forza has a Smartkey and that with all the other keys stays in my pocket when I ride. I turn the switch to steering lock, walk away from the scooter and ignition, seat, fuel flap, and glovebox also lock. Plus if I accidentally lock the keys under the seat, I just press the seat switch to open it again.