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 rear tire/wheel valve failure

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john grinsel
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PostSubject: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Wed 03 Aug 2016, 17:11

I don't know where this subject should go...but important.

On inflating new rear tire today---the curved OEM valve failed/broke in half. so no go on new tire today

It appears rubber part and some metal failed. or car valve if air chuck will fit in...or rim hole is standard, probably cheaper repair route

Will see what Honda parts has in the AM.

Of note: my bike is 2013----over 33,000 miles. I would normally change tire valves at 50,000. What about all of those older bikes out there? Underway valve falling apart could cause sudden deflation=real thrill on 2 wheels.

Right now looks to me curved valve stem===convenience for those too fat to lay on ground.

Really glad this happened in my garage
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Meldrew
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Wed 03 Aug 2016, 18:08

Lucky escape there John. I've never liked that curved OE rear tyre valve, it was awkward to use and that plastic holder gadget it sits in was a nuisance on my Silver Wing. I bought a pair of low profile angled Ariete alloy racing valves to replace the OE ones when I changed front and rear Bridgestone Hoops to Continental ContiMove 365 tyres recently.

I checked my tyre pressures yesterday with pencil type gauge and it took a fraction of the time it use to with the OE valves. Even though the rear valve was fitted by the tyre guy facing the exhaust and rear disc side, it's still easier and faster than it used to be with the OE valve. It would be even quicker if I'd used the 4 inch long braided steel extension hose that I purchased along with the tyre valves.
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exavid
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Wed 03 Aug 2016, 22:49

That plastic piece that supports the tire valve is important. It's there to prevent the valve from being pressed down against the rim by what's commonly and wrongly called 'centrifugal force'. Goldwings have them too. On a cross the US trip with a couple friends one of their tire valves failed on the front wheel. The plastic support had been gone for some while and he didn't think it was needed. I'd recommend using metal 90 degree valves when you replace the tire next time. It will require a bit more balancing weight but won't be so likely to crack. They are also easier to get a tire chuck or gauge onto. On my Goldwing I used a small pair of tie wraps criss-crossed through the plastic brace and over the valve stem. That way at least it couldn't fly off.
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Cosmic_Jumper
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Wed 03 Aug 2016, 22:51

Mr Grinsel your post belongs in "Silver Wing Topics", not in "Other Scooters & Motorcycles". I've moved your post lest anyone get unduly upset.

Tim
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Old Limey
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 04 Aug 2016, 04:42

I did not like that angled valve in the rear tyre, i seemed to let more air out each time I checked pressure. On first tyre change I had straight valve put in and although more awkward to check pressure I prefer it.
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john grinsel
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 04 Aug 2016, 12:33

Used my local Honda dealer--he had short straight valve , V rated, which should work fine----as broken piece was floating in newly mounted tire-----had then remove it and install new valve stem on their tire machine. Afternoon project=re-install wheel on bike, add Ride On for balance.

Glad I hadn't been stuck in middle of nowhere.

Next project---made sure one of the 3 pumps I can carry with, fits on valve stem. Again walking sucks
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cliffyk
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 04 Aug 2016, 13:32

exavid wrote:
That plastic piece that supports the tire valve is important. It's there to prevent the valve from being pressed down against the rim by what's commonly and wrongly called 'centrifugal force'.

It is centrifugal "force" that causes the stem to be "pressed" into the rim when the wheel spins.

Though not really a force) it is the inertial tendency of a mass (object) following a curved path to fly away from the center of curvature. The valve stem wants to fly away from the center of rotation.

Centripetal force is the real force that counteracts the inertia and prevents the mass from flying off in a straight line.

Mud flys off a tire when the mud's inertial tendency to fly off (centrifugal force) exceeds the centripetal force (it's adhesion to the tire) holding it in place...

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Dale N.
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Sat 06 Aug 2016, 01:43

I was riding my 1974 Honda CB750 two weekends ago with a bunch of friends. We must have put on about 100 miles during the trip. Some Interstate riding at 70 mph and some city riding. On the way home I was the only one left as the other riders peeled off at their exits. I was going north through Elk River, MN and stopped at the next to the last light in town. When the light changed we started to go and it felt like the handlebars were coming loose. I managed to get it pulled onto the shoulder and looked the bike over. The handlebars were tight and nothing wrong in front. The rear tire however was flat. I called a friend who came with his car and trailer and gave us a ride home which was about 20 miles. He helped me get it into the garage and the next day when I took the tire off I found the valve stem was ripped off the tube. It was a brand new tire and tube and this was the first long ride I did with them. The "hair" was still on the tread. Needless to say I did a few Thank You prayers. I'm just glad it didn't happen on the Interstate!
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The Bern
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Sat 06 Aug 2016, 17:20

Meldrew wrote:
I bought a pair of low profile angled Ariete alloy racing valves to replace the OE ones//.....// the rear valve was fitted by the tyre guy facing the exhaust and rear disc side

Yep, that would be right bud Wink if it's fitted fitting the drive side you need to file/grind a small amount from one of the drive belt housing stiffening ribs.
I did it a couple of years back, I can take a picture & post it if anyone wants/needs to know where & how much to be removed.
Also if you've not done it already, take the dust caps off & grease the threads, the will oxidise & get stuck otherwise.
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exavid
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Sat 06 Aug 2016, 23:16

Finding the stem ripped completely off the tube probably happened because of the pressure loss, possibly from a cracked stem . You don't have too lose much pressure, especially in a tubed tire, to allow the tire to shift on the rim. If the tire slips on the rim at all the stem will go with it. Low tire pressure and hard braking or acceleration can do the job. Been there, done that on a Bultaco.
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john grinsel
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Mon 08 Aug 2016, 18:52

New tire/IRC up and running. So matched IRC tires F & R bike handles fine as Honda expected.

Short, straight valve stem----can be reached from left side with my air chuck, electric pump I carry, hand pump and tire gauge. So improvement from original.
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Dale N.
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Tue 09 Aug 2016, 01:04



This is what the tube looked like once I got it all taken apart. I'm just glad it didn't happen at 70 mph. That would have sucked! If you look at the stem is wasn't one of the kind that has the threads on the valve stem or the nut to lock it onto the rim. I guess if we live long enough we learn from our mistakes. Never again will I use a tube without the threads on the stem!
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The Bern
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Wed 10 Aug 2016, 13:47

Sorry but threads on the stem will make bugger all difference, infact it will make it worse as there is no room for any rim to valve movement at all, a better way to go is rim to tyre anchor bolts, look at old British bikes (rear on T140V for example)
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Reg
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 06:55

Hi guys. Newbee here. Are there tubes in these wheels? I had assumed tubeless.

If tubeless does anyone know the rim hole size for the valve stem. On my honda vtx it is .453 inches.
Automobile stems 1 1/4" long work. But the proper honda stem is .453" x 3/4". Which I think would work
nicely on the sw if the hole size is the same.


Last edited by Reg on Tue 16 Aug 2016, 11:56; edited 1 time in total
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john grinsel
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 07:06

I, too, thought about hole size----relied on Honda Parts man to come up with proper diameter short straight stem----bought under Honda parts number. Working fine.
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sonuvabug
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 08:36

cliffyk wrote:
... snipped ... It is centrifugal "force" that causes the stem to be "pressed" into the rim when the wheel spins. Centripetal force is the real force that counteracts the inertia and prevents the mass from flying off in a straight line.  

Well all I can add is ... may the forces be with you! lol!

Reg, the tires are usually mounted tubeless.
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oldwingguy
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 09:06

Tubeless is what was and is on my S'Wing and G'Wings makes me wonder why a tube was used in that tire?
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Cookie
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 10:55

Pay attention at the back lads!
Dale was referring to the tyre on his 1974 CB750. Most if not all bikes back then had tubed tyres due to the spoked wheels.
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john grinsel
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 11:45

We used to hate the tires/rims/tubes on Brit bike----remember security bolts? I got along fine with tubed tires, realizing tubeless may be safer as the claimed slower release of air when punctured....but remember almost impossible to seat bead of tubeless tire in"field" repair. I have in past even carried tube to put in tubeless, just to get going. Walking sucks to me.
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Old Limey
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Thu 11 Aug 2016, 13:23

I agree John when we had Tubed tyres I always fitted my own tyres and repaired punctures. When Tubeless tyres came in it was getting the seal on the rim, and seating the tyres, that I couldn't manage. On the whole though i think tubeless are better, and I always carry a puncture plug kit.
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Reg
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PostSubject: Re: rear tire/wheel valve failure   Tue 16 Aug 2016, 12:06

john grinsel wrote:
I, too, thought about hole size----relied on Honda Parts man to come up with proper diameter short straight stem----bought under Honda parts number.  Working fine.

I don't suppose you have that Honda part number?

The Honda dealer here will not help with anything.
They would probably call using a straight stem unsafe.

I had a curved stem on my VTX. It fell apart putting air in the tire. Just lucky it did not happen on the road.

I have a tire machine and do my own. When that tire is done I will be installing a straight stem.
If need be I will measure the hole and then shop for a stem. It will just mean more down time.
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