Hi,

I did a "Pictorial" for - Spark Plug removal and replacement with the link here:

This is a very easy procedure and there isn't any reason to pay someone to do this for you.

Ride safe,

JeffR

Just reviewed the spark plug pics. Invaluable information. Thanks for taking the time for these write ups. I'm looking forward to reading more. Where do you buy your parts and accessories? Thanks Jeff.

Wow, thank JeffR, another fine pictigram.

Thanks for taking the time to show us just how simple some work is on the 'Wing.'

Hi JeffR,
And thanks for the great maintenance procedure. I have one question though. That "protective cap" you had to remove would be left on for a "normal" spark plug and spark plug wire that pushes on here in the states... Does the long electrode that you indicated just "push on" like the average spark plug wire terminal would ? ? I wouldn't imagine that it screwed back on or you would have mentioned it.

Thanks

All,

Thanks for the compliments and I hope it helps. It is really a easy thing to do and I would hate to hear of others paying to have this done.

RNoodle,

I buy my stuff at the local Honda shop. They are a smaller shop with nice people so I try to give them my money. I also bought my SWing there too.

DickO,

The protective cover that I showed on one pic is just to keep the threads from stripping ..I think. I forgot to take it off one plug and then installed the plug, and then found out the electrode wouldn't fit over it for some reason. So when I removed the plug I found the cover that needed to come off. The electrodes just snap on when you push them down.

Hope this helps.

Yea!! I changed the spark plugs, thanks to your pictorial and instructions! And my wing that was running rough and starting poorly and idling irregularly is now running smoothly. Jeff, you do a great job here. Thanks again and again. Dan

Just a small pointer, when removing the plug inspection flap on my 2001, instead of screws, I had 2 very tiny plastic trim clips. Be very careful as it's easy to leave the body behind when you pull out the pin. I nearly lost one.

After reading the pictorial for the first time, I see nothing mentioned about anyone applying antiseize to the threads of the new plugs.
The steel of spark plug threads can chemically interact with the aluminum of the cylinder head to cause seizing of the spark plug in the head.
I highly recommend anyone installing new plugs to put a dab of antiseize, either silver or copper, on the plug threads. Rotate the threads through your fingers to evenly distribute the antiseize.

Would a little copper grease work ok?

Terry,

that is a good suggestion to use Antizeize on the threads. The reason I don't use it is because I had my engine made out of solid gold, so I don't need to worry. It seems gold is a good investment now.

When should I be considering changing the Spark Plugs?

My SW seems to be running fine at 12,000 miles. Amazing that you can save so much on gas by riding a SW that you can swap to a gold motor.

Thanks for the clear instructions for changing spark plugs. Wish the Honda Shop Manual was as precise. Thanks again.

Vince

I talked to JeffR and he said he would try to make it available to all forum members.

Thanks JeffR for the pictorial and bigbird for the reminder to use antiseize on the threads. These are the kind of things that help everyone. Last week I watched my neighbor change sparkplugs on a VW and one of the sparkplugs slipped out of the socket and was down in a deep well. Out came his little extendable magnet and presto out it came. I picked up one of those extendable magnets for a couple of bucks and have found it very handy. Especially for that part that drops and always rolls under something. Also I would reccomend laying a shop towell over the area after removing the spark plugs. Not that any fine mechanic would ever have anything drop into a cylinder. Of course a fine mechanic would have the new plugs gapped, treated with antiseize, cap removed, and ready to pop in when the old ones came out. Me, I'd probably have to make a trip to the auto parts store to buy the plugs and antiseize that I forgot and the store would probably be closed.

Another tip:

When starting the new plugs into any deeply recessed cylinder head, don't use a socket. Even true spark plug sockets (both 13/16" and 5/8" sizes) that have the rubber inserts can still drop plugs. I and many others use some rubber tubing, as in heater hose, to press over the ribs of the new spark plugs, This prevents the plugs from slipping off and down into the recess, as well as preventing you from cross threading the plugs. The heater hose allows you enough torque to start the threads if they are aligned correctly. If the threads are misaligned, you can't turn the heater hose between your fingers. That's your sign that you have misaligned the threads. Once the threads have started, pull off the heater hose and insert your plug wrench with a 6" extension, and if you're inexperienced with tightening plugs, USE A TORQUE WRENCH!

HiYo,

I'm glad it was able to help you out. It is easier to follow than the manual.

When I put together most threaded parts I usually turn the part I'm installing backwards until I feel it click, then turn it the right way. It seems to help me keep from cross threading.