For those that wish to be able to start their Swing with the side stand down, here's the easy way I did it. I don't want to get into a debate over the appropriateness of doing this mod, as that's your final decision.

1) Remove the left passenger foot peg plate
2) Separate the green connector leading up from the sidestand
3) Insert a spade lug into the upper part of the green connector, shorting out the 2 metal pins
4) Secure the spade lug with good electrical tape so it doesn't vibrate out
5) Tape the 2 separated green connector halves to the frame so they don't move around
6) replace the left passenger foot peg plate


"the green connectors separated"


"the 2 pins that must be shorted together"


"the spade lug jumper"


"the jumper installed over the 2 pins"

To do this the safe way use your parking brake to bypass the side stand switch ......... Your scoot will start and run with the side stand down only when the parking brake is on.

Both the parking brake light and the start/run relay need a ground to be activated. How convenient!

The parking brake light gets its ground from a micro switch mounted to the brake handle that you can't get to unless you remove the front tupperware.
The side stand switch closes a ground to the starter relay. You don't want to splice in that area because it will be exposed to all the nasty road grime and gook.
That being the case, let's tap in to the other end of the conductor from those switches.

You will need to have a way to run a small gauge wire (I used 16 stranded) from behind the windshield garnish to left side rear body panel. I think DennisB has an easy way to do this by using the hollow tubing from the running board frame as a conduit. Chime in on this if you will sir.
When I performed the side stand bypass all of my body panels were removed.

To tap in to the parking brake switch ground you will need to remove the windshield garnish. You will see a brown connector feeding the headlights; to the left you will see a metal tab that holds it in place. Bend the tab down far enough to move the brown connector out of the way. To the right of the opening you will find a rubber boot over the two connector packs feeding the information center. Pull the tab on the rubber boot and slide the boot down the harness. Disconnect the lower connector; the lock tab is on the left side. You will see a white with a black trace wire on the bottom part of the connector; this is the trigger ground from the parking brake switch, splice in to this conductor.

Now for the left rear starter relay area, splice in your diode so the flow is from the parking brake trigger to the starter relay. Pull the connector pac from the starter relay and connect your trigger wire to the green with a black trace wire from the side stand switch. Test the bypass and button things up!

BTW, if you don't use a diode your parking brake light will come on when you fold the side stand.

Bigbird that looks to be a really simple task. Thanks for the pictorial. I understand things when I look at pictures. (Brain now addled)

Hi Waspie,

Here's a thread from about a year ago that covers this pretty well. http://www.silverwing600.com/silver-wing-topics-f3/disabling-the-sidestand-engine-immobilizer-t753.htm?highlight=sidestand

I can't believe you would post such an unsafe suggestion! What if someone scraped their knuckle disconnecting that plug or something? I find this post highly inappropriate

On a serious note, I like your jumper - very creative.

Acquired a couple of 'jumper' this morning and have seen the connectors. I will carry out the job when my rear wheel is back on my sick S'wing. See my thread 'Good to bad day'!!.

I re-enabled my side stand safety switch and threw away the spade lug jumper idea. Besides a safety issue, here's why:

http://www.silverwing600.com/t3900-drivability-problem-solved#35623

Just gone back over the pictorial Bigbird submitted and note now, in hindsight, that the spade connector that was used was of the 'auto' variety. (Halfords style for us Brits). I used a (Shhhhhh don't tell, military spec, as fitted to UK main battle tanks,) type. Seriously tight with sorta spikes to grip onto the pins!

So I'm kinda confident at the moment but I am most grateful to Bigbird for drawing our attention to a potential serious problem.