Bill,
ABS is always good, but from the sound of this, it would not have stopped this from happening. ABS will only prevent locking the brake so that you don't skid and lose control. If you clamped down on the brake at a slow speed ABS would not have kicked in because you would have stopped your forward motion with the normal brakes already.

Stopping with your wheel turned more often then not will dump you.
Its just time and experience learning not to do that.

You say you can't afford to repair the bike...Don't you have insurance?

Dan

Abs is helpful at speed. I believe that at slow speeds it will not engage. I can't quote MPH #'s but someone will.

Get a manual and delve into it.

DO NO just rip off the broken parts.... take them off. this will save more broken parts.
without being there in person. take the parts off and see whats broken and look online for parts replacements and costs. Ebay is sometimes a good source , but then paint to match makes them almost as costly as new.

I doubt there is any frame damage just looking at it. Just needs new tupperware.

MaxB (who's ESP doen't work very well long distance)

I agree with MaxB and many of the others. I definitely wouldn't give up, but I would be counting my blessings! Could have been MUCH worse, like someone not seeing you when down and plowing over the top of you...

One additional thing I would add under the new tupperware since you'll need to put new on anyway, is a WOLO bad boy airhorn. Best $28 I ever spent on my bike. Horn was $20 at local discount freight store, additional wire and connector set another $8 or so. This was an easy install and made such a difference.

Recently went to meet friend for a short 50 mile jaunt down the interstate. I had only just merged into the needed lane and been there for about 2 minutes, 65 mph or so, when a truck from two lanes to right started my way. Waited for the car that was to right and ahead of me 1 1/2 cars lengths to get past him, then he commenced to try to kiss my right shoulder with his driver's door. I had been very aware of what looked like could happen as soon as I saw him start his manuever. I was heading toward the inner trouble lane on highway which was also approaching a left curve on bridge overpass. Laid my thumb on the horn button as I saw him proceeding my direction, my bike started strattling the pavement on the trouble lane. He heard the WOLO (thank you Jesus!) and jumped like there was a huge car right there. This horn IS louder than the one on my Chevy truck. I was extremely thankful to have installed this horn two weeks earlier.

Keep the bike and get it and you road worthy again.

I've seen mention of air horns on here before. Are we talking about what I think we are? The last air horn I bought was for my boat. It was a dual horn type, I'm thinking one horn 12" the other 9". It sounded like it belonged on a ship (I can't remember for sure, but I think it was 118dB).

Insurance, no. I mentioned that before, I was waiting for the divorce to be final. Supposed to be next week. Have to separate the cars then and figured I'd put the truck, car, bike, and RV all on the same policy.

They are what you think they are, but they aren't as big as you think they are. I won't knock the WOLO horn because I no nothing about it.
The Stebel Nautilus Air horn is a common upgrade. And because you don't have abs there is room for it where the abs used to go if you want to put it there.
You can see the line of compact air horns here.

http://www.stebel.it/stebel2009/default.asp?menu=news

The WOLO is just like the bottom airhorn on the link sent above. I believe it said 139Db... This thing is LOUD, especially compared to stock horn. Unit I bought seemed a quality build, can't complain about it at all. Hardest part of install was taking the tupperware off to get to a spot to mount unit.

Bill sorry about your loss bro I SO FEEL YA BROTHER!!!!!!!! But check this out IF AND I SAY IF YOU ORDER THE PARTS AND DO IT YOURSELF????????????????????????????? DONT THROW NOTHING OUT PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WITH NEW BODY PANELS THERES 0 ZERO ZILCH NADA SPEED CLIPS CLIPS OR SCREWS NO HARDWEAR WHATS SO EVER!!!!!!!!!!! So make sure you have each and every piece that has a screw going through it. Because youll need to remove every thing from the old panels and transfer it all to the new panels. Trsut me pal I me personally had to replace 3/4 of my 2007 from a stop and drop that what i called it from a dead stand still i went down. After throwing out all my old panels LUCKY THE GARBAGE MEN DIDNT COME i FOUND OUT ALL THE NEW PANELS CAME WITH NO ATTACHING HARDWEAR WHATS SO EVER. so go through every body panel and piece by piece bro. Best of luck my winged brother !!!!!!

the blingmeister

OK guys, here's the latest update and I'm once again seeking advice. I was at the doctor for a follow up visit, my ankle appears to be healing well, next visit is 10/25 when I expect to loose the crutches. So I figured I'd see what it would cost to get the bike fixed, that way it'd be ready when I could ride again.

I'm going to junk it. The estimate to fix it is just under $3500. He said the parts alone were $2500 and we were only planning on replacing the stuff that needed to be replaced in order to ride it, there would still be a lot of scratches and scrapes on the back. Right now in my area on Craig's List there's a 04 for $2750, an 07 for $3700, and an 08 for $5800. So I could buy one in better shape than mine for about the same or less money.

What I'd like to know is what do you think this thing would be worth as is? I bent the fork slightly. The motor and transmission are good and I just put new tires on it. What should be an acceptable offer from the junkie?
Bill

If you get $1k from the junkie, you'll be doing very well. Part it out yourself if you're willing/able. You'll get a lot more.

Definitely the most money would be realized by selling parts on eBay. A salvage yard isn't going to pay $500. Having been in the business of buying damaged Goldwings for rebuilding or parting I'd actually be surprised if you really got an offer much more than a couple hundred dollars from a salvage operation. If you just want to get rid of it with least bother I'd try Craigslist first then a wrecking yard.

If you're getting another Swing, one option might be to sell the larger components like the engine/trans, throw away anything that's damaged, and keep the other (more easily stored) components for spare parts. This option would obviously require a bit of a time commitment plus available space to store the stuff.