Hammy ... the method I used was pretty straight forward... take top plug out,... take bottom plug out... wait for oil to drain... then use a squeeze bottle with a proper size spout to fit the bottom hole very tightly and just squeeze till the oil starts to come out of top hole... then put plug in top hole then put plug in bottom... I still intend to find the bottle or one like it that I used... the key is to find one that does fit the bottom hole tightly. I have done it twice and just did it... hope you can have some success with it. I like the idea you and Cosmic Jumper used leaning the scoot a little... I can see how that might work to allow the air to escape which is what I gained by using my method. I was like you, making a big mess and putting more oil on ground than in the drive...

When it gets cooler, like in the low 80s or upper 70s, I am going to find that dang squeeze bottle. Then locate a dozen or so then send them to anyone that wants to try one. I can't stand this heat.... and my squirrels are still complaining too.

I slowly rotate the tire draining ( http://www.silverwing600.com/pictorials-how-to-perform-maintenance-f21/changing-the-final-drive-oil-pictorial-t200.htm#977 )

I then stop filling and slowly rotate the tire while filling a couple of times to get the air bulbs out.

Thanks guys!

I found the said oil can on Harbor Freight's website:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-oz-high-pressure-oiler-66350.html

However, it says the nozzle is 3-1/8" long. The pictorial mentions needing about 4".

Anyone know if this can will work?

--Russ

Russ,

It looks like it should work fine. I did the pictorial and mine is about 4" and it has plenty of room to put the oil in the final drive.

I am changing the final drive oil this weekend & see that the service manual says to replace the sealing washers @ the filler bolt and the drain bolt. However, my Honda parts guys @ the dealership can't find them in their list of parts on the microfiche.

Does anyone know the part numbers?

--Russ

Thanks for the part numbers for the bolt and the sealing washer for where you put in the final drive oil.

I'm also looking for the sealing washer that goes on the drain bolt. I can't seem to find it scouring through pages.

Does anyone know which part it is?

--Russ

Yes, and thank you for the tip! But to reiterate, I need TWO sealing washers.

One fits on the final drive bolt (part #90474-333-000 as you specified above - thanks!).

The other fits on the drain bolt (where you drain out the final drive oil).

It's the latter that I cannot find.

Help!

--Russ

That washer isn't listed on the transmission area of the fiche. When I examined mine the washer didn't appear to be anything special (not a crushable washer etc.) it looked to be just a plain steel washer. I reused it.

Great! I'll reuse the drain bolt washer then as it's metal.

What about the final drive bolt washer...is it metal too?

And if thery're metal, why do they recommend replacing?

I would still like to know the part number of the 2nd washer....just because I'm an engineer and I HAVE to know!

--Russ

None of those washers are crush washers, so just re-use them all.

The oil change went well. The filler bolt (7/32" hex) does have a washer attached to it as well as another washer behind it (I ride a 2005). Both that washer and the drain bolt washer were metal as stated and in excellent condition so I reused them.

I got a pistol grip oil can with a narrow & long spout that fit perfectly (at Napa auto). It holds 6 oz and I got nearly 3 cans into the hole (the can doesn't fully drain by pumping).

I went with Shell Rotella T5 synthetic blend (same as my engine oil).

Cheers!

--Russ

The size of the allen wrench would help in your description. Thanks

As described, it is a 7/32" hex (or allen wrench). I personally used a 7/32" hex drill bit as my allen wrench would not break it free.

--Russ

JeffR, another thank you for the maintenance pictorials. This afternoon, I decided it was time to change the Silver Wing's final drive oil. Fortunately, I found a 12mm wrench with open-end on one end and six-point box on the other, a quarter inch hex tool, and an oil can with a long nozzle in the garage. Your instructions couldn't have been more accurate. My only regret is not capturing the old final drive oil in a separate container. I am convinced that far more new oil went into the reservoir than old oil came out during the draining process. Having purchased the Swing almost nine years after its manufacture, I am wondering if any of the prior owners replaced the oil. Just as you explained, I kept pumping the oil can after filling it once and refilling it two more times until oil began seeping back out. On my first attempt, the entire process required less than a half hour, including the time I left the garage to allow the old oil to drain completely. My actual hands-on time was probably 10 minutes or so.

Previously, I had performed an engine oil and filter change per your pictorial instructions. Today, the Swing received new final drive oil. Next up is the air filter. Thanks again!