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 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware

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TomK
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Number of posts: 5
Age: 56
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Points: 2129
Registration date: 2008-12-23

PostSubject: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:09 pm

12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware

Directions for installing wiring from battery to left front fairing pocket:
Directons for installing a 12 volt power adapter that snaps in hole:

PLEASE READ
All steps first, there is a method to my madness.

I know you’ve heard it before, but I’ll say it anyway “If I can do it anyone can do it”

What do I need to get started?

ORDER:
Honda GL1800 GoldWing Plug & Play Fairing Pocket Install 12 Volt Adapter.
(This adapter snaps in place, no need to remove Tupperware).
#ELE-202205 $14.95 (Step 10)
http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=1831&str=4

PURCHASE:
#DS126 Toggle Switch $1.95 (step 11-A)
http://www.sherco-auto.com/switches.htm

Two round 14 gauge connectors (to battery nut) (Step 11-A)

PepBoys: #FHA200BP ‘Add-A-Circuit’ $8.95 (Step 11-B) http://www.littlefuse.com/searchresults.html?Ntt=FHA200BP

Nine feet of red 14 gauge wire / 9 feet of black 14 gauge wire /
one fuse w/14 gauge wire / 6 foot of Shrink-Wrap

Wire Strippers / electrical tape / phillips head / thin hanger

INSTALLATION:

1) Peel the rubber floorboard cover back to show two screws (where left foot is placed). Take out both screws and the two screws directly above them in the hard plastic. Somehow hold the plastic section open about one inch (possibly w/bungee cord to handle bar) This is only so that you can help the wire go thru the frame at that location.

2) Bend a thin Hanger-Wire straight and feed thru the front Tupperware just under the front headlight and above the tire fender. You will see it (at one inch opening). Help it to fit thru one of the frame openings and feed the Hanger-Wire until it comes out the bottom of the Swing.

3) Get the 9 feet of both red and black wires and slip 6 feet of shrink-wrap over both wires and center the shrink wrap in the middle and heat the shrink wrap. This is to protect the middle section of the wires which will be exposed to weather more than the other.

4) Attach one end of both wires to the Hanger-Wire at the front fairing and carefully pull thru until it comes out the bottom of the Swing just below the one inch opening. Be sure to leave two feet of wire hanging out the front fairing! (I will come back to this later).
5) Detach the Hanger-Wire. Start to carefully feed the Hanger-Wire from just below the battery to where the main wires and one inch opening are.

6) Attach the wires and Hanger-Wire at the one inch opening location, and carefully pull remaining shrink-wrapped wire to just under the battery. (this takes time and patience).

7) There is a hole on the left of the battery. (You can see where all the wires come out from the battery). Feed the main wires up thru this hole and next to the battery (under the seat). Take off the battery cover (one screw) and remove the inside floor covering and place somewhere else.
NOTE: At this point you should have main wires coming out of the front fairing and out by the battery under the seat with the center of the main wires shrink-wrapped, which protects from the weather.
Close up the area where the one inch opening is and screw the four screws back in. The rubber floorboard cover just snaps back into place.

Cool BACK TO THE LEFT FAIRING POCKET: Feed the Hanger-Wire carefully thru the fairing pocket hole until it comes out the front fairing where you have the two foot section of main wires hanging out.

9) CHOICE:
9-A: Attach the main wires to the Hanger-Wire and carefully pull thru the hole in the left fairing pocket. There should be more than enough wire to work with.

9-B: Strip the two main wires and make them into four wires (two red coming off the main red and two black coming off the main black) This will leave you with an extra set of wires to connect to LED lights, etc., sometime in the future. Wrap this section of wires with electrical tape to keep from weather getting to them. Place inside fairing so they will not rattle. Take the other set of wires and follow 9-A directions.

10) When you receive the GL1800 GoldWing 12 volt adapter you will see two things:
It just snaps in place and the SilverWing hole is not large enough.

Cut off the plug & play connector, strip the wires and attach the 12 volt adapter wires to the wires you pulled thru the hole. Use electrical tape. Push some of the connected wires thru the hole. Rasp out the hole with the adapter wires connected.
Rasp out the hole until the 12 volt connected adapter snaps in place. Once the adapter snaps in place, you cannot get it back out, so make sure the wiring is connected first before rasping.

11) BACK UNDER THE SEAT:
Here you have two options in connecting the main wires to a power source.
11-A Use a Toggle Switch. Turns on the adapter when engine is on or off.
11-B Use the ‘Add-A’Circuit’ to easily connect the main red wire to the fuse box. This will result in the 12 volt adapter on only when the ignition is on.
----------------------------
11-A The DS-126 Toggle Switch is excellent because the face plate says ‘OFF’ and ‘ON’ and the screw, screws down the face plate and the unit.
Take off the right back inside panel (just under the light, under seat).
Drill a small hole to the left bottom of panel opening so that two wires can go thru the hole. (When the inside (under seat) floor cover is placed back in, the wires and hole will not show).

Drill another hole to the right of the inside panel, then make hole larger by using larger drill bits each time until the Toggle Switch fits in (from back to front).

Thread the main red wire thru the small hole (under inside panel) and connect directly to back of Toggle Switch. Connect a fused 14 gauge wire with round connector to the Toggle Switch.

Connect another section of additional red wire to the other end of fused 14 gauged wire and thread back thru small hole, continue to the battery and connect to positive battery cable with the round connector. Make sure the fuse is in the fuse holder and put the inside panel back on the side wall.

Just connect the main black wire to the negative battery cable with the round connector.

CHECK TO SEE if 12 volt power adapter works by placing some kind of adapter appliance in the 12 volt adapter socket and throwing the toggle switch “on”.

11-B Connect the main red wire to the blue wire connector on the ‘Add-A-Circuit’ unit. Crimp the end of the blue wire connector. Find the two fuse boxes under the seat, open the box closest to the front of Swing. There should be two open 10 amp slots. Place the Add-A-Circuit in either slot. Put a 5 amp or 7.5 amp (from the box) in the top slot (where the wire comes out). Hook the main black wire to the battery cable with the round connector.
Place a 12 volt appliance in the left fairing pocket 12 volt power socket.
The 12 volt appliance should turn on when you turn the Swing ignition on.
------------------------------
Sorry no pictures currently. Hope these simplified directions help.
Consider these directions as:
Connecting a 12 Volt Power Adapter for DUMMIES!

Summary
This project took me approx. four hours to complete.
If I had these directions when I started, it would have taken me only half the time.

---Tom K from Pittsburgh PA


Last edited by TomK on Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:51 pm; edited 3 times in total
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dickie
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PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:21 pm

Great instructions TonK....
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chieninhouston
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Number of posts: 29
Location: Houston, Texas
Points: 1917
Registration date: 2009-09-04

PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:37 pm

Hello, Tomk,

I have my 12 volt outlet installed following your instructions. Thank you very much. Life is much easier now.
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MaxB
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Number of posts: 302
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PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:59 am

The fuses in the silverwing are mini or series 297 type fuses.
The add-a-fuse holder you need is for an ATM type fuse, NOT the ATO type fuse.
Here is an example:
http://inlighting.com/index.php?c=6&n=228013&i=B000GKEXK2&x=Bussmann_BPHHH_ATM_Add_A_Fuse

If you use this one you do not need to carry 2 sizes of fuse.

Also the two spare fuse slots on the front fuse block do not have power to them. So the need to use an Add a fuse adapter. Just pull one of the fuses and insert the Add-a-fuse. Continue as above.

hope this clarifies some parts needed.

MaxB (Industrial Electrician)
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RVer
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Number of posts: 14
Age: 52
Location: Flushing, NY
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PostSubject: No opening   Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:03 pm

Hello all,
I don't see any opening in my left fairing pocket of my 2004 Silver Wing, is this normal for the year I have?
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DennisB
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Number of posts: 2699
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Location: NE Oklahoma
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Registration date: 2008-12-28

PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:47 pm

Hi RVer,

All the U.S. Silverwings come with the hole in the left glove box. They are plugged with a black hole plug.
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RVer
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Number of posts: 14
Age: 52
Location: Flushing, NY
Points: 1690
Registration date: 2010-03-25

PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:15 pm

Hello Dennis, Went outside and checked, and there it was, don't know how I missed that. I'll start ordering and buying the parts this week.
Thanks!!!
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MikeO
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Number of posts: 2538
Age: 65
Location: Salisbury UK
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Registration date: 2009-06-29

PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:59 am

I've decided to bite the bullet and try using this route to feed my Starcom wires to the front.
At the risk of irritating everyone (apologies in advance if I do) I am not sure which is the 1 inch opening in Point 2.

I don't want to poke about in the wrong hole!

Please will someone clarify this for me.
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DennisB
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PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:37 am

Hi Mike,

One note of caution: The inside edges of that foot board tube is very sharp. Sharp enough to cut a finger or the wire insulation. After you run the wire, protect it with about 100mm (4") with some of that flexible, split wire protector. Run it down the wires and into the tube opening and secure it with a small tie rap.
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MikeO
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PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:19 am

Many thanks for the warning and tip, Dennis; I shall either get some of the wire-protector you suggest or split some flexible plastic tube I already have and wrap it with gaffer-tape.
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MikeO
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Number of posts: 2538
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Location: Salisbury UK
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PostSubject: Re: 12 Volt Power Install without removing Tupperware   Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:31 pm

Any clues about the 1-inch hole? Crying or Very sad
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