Dennis, I wasn't sure where I learned that method. It is not in the book, I just know it worked when I did it before. You are right. I did use that method to add oil to the foot of my outboard when I had one. Masscoot... please use the squeeze bottle when you do this. Those dang oil cans usually don't fit the hole tight enough.

Not sure how you could fill the final drive from the bottom hole unless the fill nozzle was a very tight fit into the drain hole. Also, every time you had to refill the dispenser, a lot of oil would run back out. I use a pump-type oil can that must be refilled 3 times to transfer the correct amount of oil into the final drive. Seems like overkill and a really messy situation to try and fill from the drain hole rather than the top hole.

Now yall've got me all confused I thought the final drive was the one from the funeral parlor to the bone-yard!

Just what sort of squeeze bottle do you use, in my mind I see you with an old mustard or ketchup bottle and oil every where. I know there are others out there but not sure what would fit the bill. Is there something with a tube or hose you stick in the bottom hole and use kinda like an old enema bottle which would be held higher than the top hole so your not trying to push the oil uphill? Or is this something a parts house or boat shop would sell?
Craig

I use a syringe-type thing to do the final drive fill. It's called 'The MixMizer', holds about 2 oz., and is normally used to mix 2-Stroke fuel. The MixMizer also come with a 4" extension tube. I got it at Pep Boys or Auto Zone for about $5.

I pre-measure the the oil into a clean cup or jar. Then suck it up into the syringe and inject it into the final drive. Then repeat until it's full.

No reason that a ketchup/mustard squeeze bottle wouldn't work either --but you'll need an extension tube too.

After draining the oil from the final drive, and before reinstalling the drain plug, be sure to rotate the rear wheel a few times so that the final drive gears 'push' out the remaining old oil.

When I was servicing outboards I was never too successful in refilling the final drives from the bottom up. Always ended up with too much of a mess -and then had to 'top off' anyway.

I've never had a problem filling my Silverwing final drive from the top using the Mixmizer syringe. Again, rotate the rear wheel a few times so that any potential air pockets are purged before you are sure you've filled the drive.

And oh yeah, I refill the final drive when I have the belt drive cover(s) off. It's a whole lot more accessible that way.

Tim

I use a pump type oil can with a long slender spout that fits right into the top fill hole. It holds 10 oz which is what the rear drive holds. Wally World has them for under $5.

Well, My final drive filling tool is not that fancy. I just us a turkey baster $1.00 and a small piece of rubber hose and a short length of metal tube. It works OK, but that walmart, pump type oil can, sure sounds like a winner to me.

My better half frowns upon me using her kitchen utensils for other than what they were intended. Also might make the turkey be a little off flavored, so I think a trip to walley world is indicated in the near future.
Craig

Hi All, For some of you guys that don't know what a cheep, turkey baster looks like:



And NO, don't bast your turkey after you use it for final drive scooter oil installation. Just keep it out in the garage with your other scooter tools. They are only a dollar at the Dollar Store.

Mixmizer great item to have around! I use a clear ketchup bottle and a clear extension tube (I think it is 1/4") with a diagonal cut at the tip of the tube so I can insert part of the tube into the hole making a great seal.

What happens is like when you place a drinking straw in a drink and you place your finger over the end of the straw and then pull the straw out of the drink. The liquid inside the straw does not exit the bottom of the straw until you remove your finger.

With that said..

Filling the final final drive through the bottom hole until the oil starts to come out the top hole. Then you install the top threaded plug and then remove the bottom hole filler tube and install that plug. Some small amount of oil will leak out the bottom hole, but not that much.

Thank you Buddy and Dennis... I was beginning to think I was insane doing it that way. The amount of oil lost is actually less that what I lost trying to get it in the top hole.
I went to look for the squeeze bottle I used the last time I changed the oil. I did not find it. Should be somewhere, me and the wife cleaned up a little when I got the new storage building. May not even have it now. I think I bought it at the local parts store for a couple of dollars. Plan to take picture when I need a replacement. My new scoot has 640 miles on it now, so, it will be a while.

FYI
The book gives capacity of .32L (.34 US qt, 0.28 Imp qt). Honestly, it has been quite a while since I did this service. (over a year)... I don't think I had to refill the bottle any. When I do this again, I will give more details of what I do. I did this twice and just did it. Wasn't expecting to report to a forum at the time. Sorry for any confusion. You will get old and on medication some day.

One other tip some may or may not have heard of or used. When you are filling a cavity through a small hole ( like a oil crank case of a scooter or mower) and you don't have funnel small enough. Use a screw driver blade to get oil into hard to reach places. Put the blade next to the oil bottle opening and slowly pour. Oil follows... into hole. Don't try this if hole is above screwdriver.

For small cavity, take a straw from a broom or a similar slim item. Place one end in the hole at an angle, then slowly pour the fluid on the straw and watch it run into the hole If you are adding only small amount of oil, you can use soda straw... lower one end into oil, put finger on top of other end. Remove straw, put lower end into opening and remove top finger. This will let oil enter and allow the air to escape around the straw. Will take longer, but will work. For a large cavity, it is not practical, but it works like magic for small openings. I have used it many times to oil old fans with the little lube opening with spring cap.

I think I saw a movie where someone hanging from a ceiling assassinates someone by dripping poison down a thin string into the victim's glass... Um... sorry, mind wandering! I tried to find that oil can thing at Walmart but couldn't find one... nor could I find any motorcycle oil there. Silly question (I've got plenty) but DO we have to use oil that has a picture of a motorcycle on there? I mean, 10W30 is 10W30 right?

Hammy,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

I read this to say "NO". Read up ... I have been using regular Exxon 10w30 in my scoot, but now I am going to do some research.

Here is another rather long report ... .

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

there are more... my gut feeling is, good oil is good oil. but I am still open to having my mind changed.

The article basically says, yes, motorcycle oil and regular car engine oil are different. If there's no JASO-MA thingy on the label, I guess I can't really use it then. Rats -- guess I'll have to buy my oil from a bike shop again...

Around here, AutoZone auto parts stores carry motorcycle oil. Probably other large auto parts stores also carry it. It may be more expensive than Wally's, but probably cheaper and more convenient than going to a M/C dealer. Might be worth a look (or a call).

I stand to be corrected but I think the business over car and motorcycle oil being different is due to motorcycles having wet clutches.

I doubt as 'pure' engine oil for a Silverwing it matters much if one uses 'car' oil.

I read this a couple of years ago ... Amsoil's A Study of
Motorcycle Oils ( http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf )

Silverwing scooters do NOT have a wet clutch like a regular motorcycle, so the research and articles about motorcycle oils actually are irrelevant to them. It won't hurt to use "motorcycle" oil in them, but "auto" oils will do the job just fine at a much more economical price. However, we can argue over "dino oil" and "snythetics".

Big Bird, what brand and type of oil do you use?

I'm not advocating one or the other type of oil here, and I enjoy reading all the technical jargon that's being presented, but in my opinion, it doesn't make diddly difference what kind of oil you use if you change it regularly at 3000 miles or so. Personally, I have used Honda motorcycle oil, dino car oil, and currently I'm using Castrol Full Synthetic 10w40, which I will probably continue to use.

Okeedokey... my reasoning is because I burn up a lot of miles on long distance riding and don't wanna be too bogged down with extra cost if I don't need to. Car motor oil is cheaper than motorcycle oil and much more readily available... BUT I don't wanna put something in my bike if it's gonna damage my Swing. I wanna see if I can get her up to 100k miles.

WOW! I wanna know what HE uses! Looks like only Honda oil and filters... Considering I just snapped my belt after just 6000 miles of riding and 6 weeks of ownership, maybe I should invest in whatever Honda suggests then... Probably end up paying a premium on that though!