Hi,

I changed my oil today and took some pictures and decided to make a "Pictorial" of how I did it. This is really just for those who don't know how to change the oil, or for those that think that they aren't mechanically inclined enough to do this. It is one of the easiest types of maintenance that you can do. If you already know how, or have worked on things before, you probably already know this or have a better way to do it. This just works good for me.

(PDF Format)

Nice pictures and description Jeff. When i change my oil after i drain the oil, remove the filter and the oil dip stick. I then start my engine and let it run for about 2 to 3 seconds. You would be surprised, about another half quart comes out. So instead of putting in 2.25 quarts it takes 2.75 quarts. which is about 20% to 25% more of the old oil your getting out.

I know some people might say " your running the engine without oil".
but there is oil residual on all the part and when you start an engine for the first couple of seconds there isn't oil pressure anyway. It takes a short time to build up oil pressure and that is why the oil light stays on for a short time when you start your bike. This shouldn't hurt your bike, but does remove more of the old oil and lets you put more fresh oil in.

Paul,

I never thought about doing that since I just figured most just came out. I don't think it will hurt anything either since, like you said, there is some residual oil and the engine isn't warm or hot anyway. It's probably like starting your car or bike up after resting it for a day or so. Thanks.

Jeff,
I love your post. I have been reading a lot of articles about oil and oil filters. I guess I may start a war but I feel obligated to share the tests I believe performed by Mark Lawrence. He is very convinced the Fram filter is not a good filter. His website is located at:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/ I also like Leroy Beal’s website at:
http://www.leroybeal.net/ He also has studied various filters. See his website at:

http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/oilfilters/Motorcycle%2520oil%2520filters%2520exposed.pdf

Both of these websites do not recommend the Fram filter. Maybe this should be another thread.

Dennis,

Thanks. The reason I bought the Fram is because I read somewhere that it is just as good as the Honda but cheaper. I can't remember where I read that but it had to have been a Silver Wing site. I will read through the links you provided since Im' curiours now. Thanks.

I totally agree with your recommendations of articles on oil & filters. I have personally been using the Wal-Mart SuperTech ST-7317 in both the S'Wing and my Road Star (interesting...they both use the same filter!). The S'Wing only has a little over 2000 miles, but I have over 15000 trouble-free miles in all kinds of conditions on the Roadie, and in my opinion, the ST7317 can't be beat...especially for $2 and change!

Gene

PS - For the Original Post...great pictorial!!

Jeff Is the picture of the oil drain plug the right thing It looks like its an allan wrench not a socket when i look under the cruiser there is a bolt/plug that looks like that and then theres one that looks to need a 24mm socket????

cruiser,

The oil plug/bolt is a 24mm bolt. I will need to look at the pictorial again concerning the allen wrench. But the oil plug is a 24mm bolt.

The oil plug bolt is actually called the tappit. It is called the tappit because in the 1970's Honda put that exact same bolt over each valve on the 750 Four so that you get to and adjust the valves easily. Back then that bolt over each valve was called a tappit and it is still called a tappit. I have broken several of them on the Honda Silver Wing and when you call the parts house and tell them you need another one sent overnight you have to tell them that you want the tappit for the Honda Silver Wing.

Thanks Jeff the pic on my screen makes the bolt head look inverted. when I was looking under the bike there's and allen wrench bolt to the rear then up a bit that the pic did look like.
Sorry for the confusion

how much oil do i need to chnge?

FYI, if you have an Auto Zone near you, they carry 24mm 1/2" drive sockets that work perfectly.

--Russ

Most importantly, use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point.

If you've already tried with a 6 pt socket and ratchet,
then take an electric impact gun to the plug. You may have to jack up the bike to get clearance for the gun. An impact gun should loosen it without rounding off the points of the drain plug.

Hi.

Just changed my oil and filter.

The owner's handbook states the oil filter torque should be 26 NM but I could not find a reference to the torque setting of the engine oil drain plug.

Can someone please let me know what it should be.

15Nm or 11lbf-ft

Whatever else you do, DON'T overtighten the oil drain plug. It'll be a
pain to get off without rounding the points of the bolt head.

I changed my oil for the first time today. This was actually the second oil change for my silverwing, but I had the dealer do the first service last fall. I have just over 4000 miles on the odometer. The book says 8000 but the dealer told me that they extend the mileage out as far as they can to reduce the "perceived environmental impact." Changing the oil less often means less oil to dispose of and therefore less impact. (Don't get me started on this environmental crap.) He recommended about every 4000 miles and not to exceed 5000.

Anyhow, after reading this article on oil filters, I used the Purolator Pure One PL14610 filter and I was surprised at how much longer it was than the stock Honda filter. It was almost 1½ times as long. I purchased an oil filter socket to fit it but because of the extended length I will be unable to use it as the filter just barely fits in the space allowed. I used Castrol GTX and chose 10-W30 as that is what they recommend for cooler climates like here in Missouri.

I was really surprised at how nasty the oil that came out of it was. It was really black and full of sludge. When I change the oil on my Chinese scooter (which has no filter and therefore needs it every 1000 miles) it usually is darker than it went in, but not as nasty as this stuff. Could it be because this was from the break in period? Or perhaps it was from the relative non use it has had for the last 3-4 months. I got it out and started it up a few times over the winter, but it did a lot of sitting.

All in all today was a rainy day and I was just longing for something to do that was scooter related so I let it warm up and then had my garage fun.

Is Castrol GTX 10W-30 JASO-MA rated, as Honda requests you use?
I use the same filters as you, but I am not a fan of Castrol. Over at www.bobistheoilguy.com there are many postings of motorcycle UOA's (used oil analysis) and Castrol doesn't score well.
Many Swing owners use HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) such as Shell Rotella T5 and T6, Mobil Delvo and Delvac, etc.
If you think the oil is really dirty when it comes out try shortening your oil change interval again. Don't forget that black oil is a sign that the oil is doing its job cleaning the engine, as well as lubricating and cooling.

I've used Castrol for years in most of what I run. I switched to Valvoline Max Life in my truck. As far as the JASO-MA Rating, I'll have to plead ignorance. I did look to make sure it was SG (or better) and it is. As for the black oil, I thought the filter was there to prevent that. Clean it up so you're not running sludge through your engine.

Hi Mitch,

On the subject of how much force to use on the aluminum drain plug and oil filter. First, always use a 6 sided socket and never a 12 or you will strip the hex head right off it. The drain plug has an O-ring that seals it without putting a whole lot of torque on it. A very small torque (snug it up) should keep it installed till your next oil change.

When installing a new filter, always clean the surface of where the filter mounts to the scooter and then rub a little (a light coat) clean engine oil on the new filter gasket.

Spin the new filter on till the gasket touches the clean sealing surface and then give the filter an extra 3/4 to 1 turn more, NO MORE. Add your new oil and go for a ride.

I agree with only using a 6 pt socket and not over-tightening it. I know you won't know if you tightened it too hard until the next time you try to remove the tappit and then you can't get it off. I rounded mine off and it wasn't hard to do at all. I have changed my oil for the last 4 years but the last time I tried to remove it I couldn't. I had to take it to the shop since I have limited tools. I tried everything I had but nothing worked.

I also had the coolant and the battery replaced since the battery was dead and I tried charging it a few times but it would last a week at most. So I had it replaced too while the bike was in the shop. But as Dennis said you don't really need to crank the tappit down much at all. I really wish this thing was deeper because then it wouldn't have rounded off. Also, wipe the oil off of the tappit really good. Even if you have to get wet-wipes to get it really clean. Like I said, I have changed the oil for the last 4 years and always change it before I probably need to and I was amazed at how easy the thing rounded off.

Thanks for feedback on oil drain bolt.

I Have now torqued it correctly.

I know the owner's manual recommends SAE 10W 30 but it does not preclude the use of a 10W 40 oil - I refilled engine with Castrol GTX 10W 40 and so I hope it is OK.

As others have mentioned on this thread, I was concerned about using a socket to remove the oil drain tappet. This morning, I performed an oil and filter change on my Silver Wing. In addition to using Shell Rotella T6 oil for the first time (thanks, bigbird!), I used a newly arrived 24mm, 6 point wrench from eBay to loosen and tighten the tappet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSR-6-POINT-RIDER-WRENCH-STEEL-17MM-24MM-/370533099081?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56457e6649

Compared to using a socket, I perceived a much more secure grip on the tappet with the new 24mm wrench. Having used this wrench once, I will most likely not use the 24mm socket again, even though it's 6 point as well, for oil changes.

Being able to see the bottom of the tappet from below while holding the wrench firmly in place was helpful for me. The wrench thickness is very close to the tappet head height (not sure "head height" is the right term but hopefully descriptive enough...). I found that useful.

The socket came from Tractor Supply. Maybe not the best, but I used it on two other occasions. It worked OK, but I prefer using the wrench having tried both tools.

Use what works in your hand. If I change my oil I'll use my 6 point socket.
If YOU change my oil for me please use your 24mm, 6 point wrench.

Hi guys,

Will my Honda tool kit that came with the bike have a wrench that will take off the oil drain plug?

Will the local motorcycle shop have a filter I will need?

Mike