Hi,

I thought I was going to do this a couple of weeks ago but didn't have a chance. Here is a pictorial on how to change the Final Drive Oil. It is very easy and this will help not have to pay an mechanic to do this for you . You will see that the area is dirty with grease but I kept that there to help see the bolt better.... or maybe I didn't have time to clean it since I was riding too much.

http://www.4shared.com/file/85165640/c304d9e6/Changing_the_Final_Drive_Oil_Pictorial.html (Word)

Here it is in a .pdf format ( for those that don't have Word):

http://www.4shared.com/file/186349671/417cdbdb/SilverwingFinalDriveOilChange.html (pdf)


Hope this helps those that haven't done this yet or don't think that you can't. It is very easy to do if you read through this first. Make sure you find something like the oil can that I used to re-fill the oil. Whatever you use needs to be thin and about 4" long. I was going to experiment with a straw, and it worked, but when I cut the nozzle off the Gear Oil bottle to far down it wouldn't fit in the end of the straw. If you use the type of Gear Oil with the nozzle that is about 2"-3" long make sure you cut it right at the top. If you do this you can insert the straw into the hole of the case and then the nozzle of the Gear Oil container in the other end of the straw.

If you have any questions please ask.

Jeff, I hope you realize how much your pictorial posts are help to really slow mechanical folks like me. I have a manual, owned a service station for 11 years (did minor repairs of all kinds), college degree, read books all the time, but nothing seems to stick when I read the service manual for some of the routine maintenance items required. Looking at your very specific and detailed instructions hits the spot. I am going to be indebted to you for a long time. Thanks for all you effort.

Now post a repair porcedure for my IRA. I really need your help.

Gary

Gary,

I'm glad you find them helpful. But for IRA all I can say is "Buy High and sell Low" or something like that.

Bill,

You are right about turning the wheel and I did do that but forgot to include it. I will try to amend my pictorial this week. Thanks.

Mr. Jeffr, Sir:

your pictures and explanation were excellent. however, last summer i took my scoot to the dealer for tires, drive belt, plugs, and rear drive oil change and they put 10w 30 motor oil in the final drive, which is (what they showed me) is called for in the service manual. my reflex takes 80-90 gear lube but the swing shows a thirst for motor oil in the final drive. most likely either will work. it is a robust machine, isn't it?

Tom,

The manual does say to use the same kind of oil you use for the crankcase but many have used the gear lube too. This is the first time I have used it and am just trying it. Some have said that it smooths out the transmission some so I will see. I have only been able to ride about 10 miles and it did seem quieter, but I can't say just yet. The SWing is a robust machine and I have had this 2 years, next month, and really like this bike. This is the first time I have ever had a bike where I don't want anything else. Also, please don't call me sir. (lol)

HHHHHHMMMMMMMM

Just a thought. I have owned a Range Rover and the transmission /gearbox oil was specified as "motor oil", same as in the crankcases. The Land Rover I had owned previously however used "gearbox oil" around 80-90. The reason for the difference was the bearings in the Rangie were not compatible with the high sulphur content in the transmission oil, which would cause the alloys in them to erode away. you may want to check it out with Honda as to why they use engine oil in the final transmission instead of the heavier oil.