Does anyone know what metal compound the radiator is made of? It looks like some sort of Aluminium alloy.

I believe your right Kurt. I read somewhere that in the UK we have to ensure aluminium compatible anti freeze is used. (Until then I didn't know there was a diferance!).

Hi Kurt,

Sorry to hear about your radiator. When you get the radiator out and you get a moment, please take a few pictures of the damage.

Waspie,

I think the anti-freeze caveat is because of the engine, not neccessarily the radiator. My BMW's both had, as well as both of my Toyotas have the same requirement. I believe the BMWs had some sort of composite radiator.

Thanks for the input. I am currently 3600kms from the scoot and will give all the details of the repair when I get back to Perth. I would have prefered to fix it when it happened, but it was too close to departure time. For all you train buffs out there, My wife and I travelled on the Indian Pacific. 2000 plus kms across the Nullabor and savannah of southern OZ. WOW the longest straight piece of track in the world at over 500kms without a bend or twist. We celebrated New Years eve somewhere in outback South Australia and spent 2 days in Adelaide sampling many wines in the Barossa Valley. We then drove the rest of the way to Melb in our car which came along for the train ride. We are going to drive back to Perth in about 10 days. I'll try to keep in touch.

OK I got back from Melbourne and proceeded to dismantle the Swing to get the radiator out. Thanks to those responsible for the posts re removing the tupperware, what a nightmare! Without this info I would have gone mad!! OH well just a little more!!!
BUT wait! there's more!!
Who designed those push pull little [url=http://www.silverwing600.com/mailto:#$@&^%$]#$@&^%$[/url] plugs!!! and the credit card trick!!! Neat.
I removed the the wheel and guard to facilitate the removal of the radiator. The radiator itself was easy to get off and out once the plastic was removed.
The radiator cost $30.00 to have welded/ally soldered which I thought was reasonable for the work done including pressure testing.

PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER. AAAARRRGGGH!!!

THERE IS NOT ENOUGH TOP RADIATOR HOSE STICKING OUT TO FIT THE RADIATOR INLET PIPE!! tried to slip it on with a coating of WD 40, BUT TO NO AVAIL SO MORE PLASTIC HAD TO COME OFF!!
Lower Side covers, foot shield, pillion footrest plate (oops there was a lug on that rear side cover there.. oh well we got good adhesives these days.), the large upper kick board and dash, just to get to the upper part of the hose so I could just get enough grip on it to push it on the spigot!PHEWW!
I even brushed up on my German language skills so I could extend my vocabulary of swear words.
While all the plastic was removed I set up a small switch station to wire up the radio , rear view camera and overide for the side stand switch. All with LED indicators
Boy this is getting as long as Dennis's story.
(I must state here that all the extra circuits are on a separate system direct from the battery and only tested but not actually plugged in)
After reinstalling with much ado the tupperware and other components,
I put the key in the ignition and only got a buzz for a couple of seconds, but no start, no grinding of starter gears, and no joy ,only a high pitched buzz with the dash lights cutting out. Lights ,Horn and indicators working fine, but no kick on the engine.
Anybody have any ideas???

Dead battery?

Nope,I thought that too, so I put it on charger for hours. It seems some sort of engine management might be cutting out before the starter can kick in.

OK Kurt,

I need to help you so you can get back to reading my long story. Thanks for reading it.

One of my pals across the pond had this same problem. Check and replace your main fuse under your left rear side cover. Not the spare fuse located in the same place, but the main fuse under the black cover.

Thanks for the tip, Dennis. I changed this fuse but there was no improvement. However by removing the cover ,I can say the middle relay in the bank of 3 just behind this fuse can be heard/ felt clicking "ON" and then a second or 2 back "OFF" This is starting to worry me, as I have not played with the electrical system except for disconnecting the lights. I have tried this with the lights connected as well but to no avail.

AAArgh, I followed up the above posts by reading the German Version of the Service Manual. NOT bad for ther pics, but my German skills are severly lacking. I pulled it apart again and started fiddling.
I noticed even after refilling the cooling system, that by removing the temp sensor that there was no coolant under it in the main channel to the engine. by releasing the cap this allowed fluid into ducts.
Still no go!
I told my wife it will need to go back to a Honda dealer on a trailer, and went back to fiddling.
On a whim, I shorted out the socket that the side stand switch plugs into and.... the :&^%$#@#$]&^%$#@#$ motor started. Replugging the sidestand to its original config and it now was working????. WTH????..

Now to put it all back together again...

Moral of the story, IF you hole your radiator, check the sidestand switch ??? !!!

PS ..YES I did try to start it with the sidestand up initially, then both up and down with no avail. Just one of those gremlins.

The old girl is back together and running.
extra work carried out: Rearview camera circuit. Now I can see directly behind me ,even in the dark.
Side stand overide LED switch. Now I can leave the engine idling when I open and shut gates.
Radio and speakers installed.
Small strobe like LED near key lock to let me know if seat is not locked in properly using the original lamp switch (I have already changed the original system to a manual switch and a LED globe after I first got the Swing ).

Hey Kurt,

Glad to hear you got your scooter back on the road. If you get a chance post some pictures of your new Rearview camera setup so we can all see it.

Will do.

Kurt, do tell me more about the side stand LED override.

I prefer to use the side stand and an override would be ideal.

Thanks in advance


Doug